Hey guys, I really need some advice! (New Member)

[herb]

I wouldn't touch anything made by eleaf , there are much better engineered mods for around the same price point these days . Besides they will never warrant anything you buy , terrible company.

Phil Busardo even said they are at the very bottom when it comes to quality devices , if you want cheap they are OK though.

Many newcomers are told to buy sub ohm tanks and buy a high wattage mod to start and i couldn't disagree more , thats what many were introduced to so thats what they recommend it to others but imo it's best to start out exactly like your doing .

Take it slow and start low, 8 to 20 watts is what the overwhelming majority still vape at and the sub ohm ers are the minority not majority.

Plenty of info on here , no need to go berserk right off the bat like many do.

 

[Two_Bears]

2. It seems the only thing I have to think about besides finding the sweet spot for the wattage is staying within the watt ranges on the guide that comes with it and is also

Exactly! The point is to give you a satisfactory vape and keep you off the Stinkies.

You're right this is too easy!

IT IS EASY! with a regulated mod it is safe. A mechanical mod without those safety features can quickly turn into a pipe bomb.

3. You mentioned having to buy a charger for the Subbox Mini. Doesn't the Subbox Mini have a mini usb to charge that single 18650? I'm pretty sure you mentioned this because it's a much better idea to get the charger and an extra battery so I can

YES. Many mods allow to recharge the battery inside the mod; but to be perfectly honest this is not a good career move. The reason is if the charging battery has an issue and vents it could ruin your mod. Better to ruin the cheap charger than ruin your mod.

[QUOTE*]4. The kit comes with 2 coil heads a 0.5ohm and a 1.5 ohm. I really dig the 0.5 on my joytech ego one mega heads and I [/QUOTE]

Yes premade coils come in set resistance. .5 and 1.2 ohms if memory serves.

With rebuilding the coil heads as Rip Trippers shows or rebuilding on the RBA that comes with the Sub tank mini you can build coils and wick them to your PERFECT sweet spot and satisfying vape. For me my sweet spot is .8-1 ohm. Another benefit when the vape tastes off I can gently pull out the cotton and in the RBA dry burn the coil to clean off the gunk. Install a new wick and it is likeva brand new coil. I have had one coil last for three months.

To start rebuilding start gathering stuff you have around the house.

Screw drivers

I cut the Kanthal With fingernail clippers. I can get just as close or closer with clippers as I can with expensive side cutters.

I wick my coils with organic cotton balls I buy at Walgreen's.

You will need a spool of Kanthal. I recommended 26 gauge. You can get a 100 foot spool of Kanthal on eBay for $5 or less. That is enough Kanthal to make 200-300 coils depending on how wasteful you are.

In the beginning I would recommend using an ohms reader for safety. If you have a multimeter in the garage you can check the resistance with that. And besides someone here may PIF (Pay It Forward) an ohms meter to you. I have built so long I know that 8 wraps around a 2 mm rod will give me a resistance of .8-.94 ohms. I could literally build to my sweet spot with my eyes closed. Yes I started with a ohms meter. After I found my sweet spot I have my ohm meter to a friend building an RDA, and I had warned him a dozen times "DON'T BUILD TOO LOW!"

5. Speaking on the topic of coil heads. The one thing I noticed when I did use my 1ohm coil head for my Ego One Mega is that while it was very restrictive, it didn't seem to go through a whole tank of juice nearly as fast. I thought I read somewhere that the general rule of thumb is that the lower the ohm.. the more flavor you get and more juice you use up while the

That is pretty true but rebuilding you can dial in the vapor that gives you flavor you want and be economial on juice.

Another thing those premade coils cost $1.50-2 each. I can wrap my own coil around the shaft of the little blue screwdriver that comes in most kits. The coil will cost anything from 1-3 cents, and with organic cotton balls I can wick and rewick that coil for three months and the cost of the coil. My total cost for coil and cotton to go for three months is only 10-15 cents.

7. Is there a specific type of 18650 cell I need to buy? Do they vary in Mahs at all or are there other factors I need to look into? Basically I'm asking all you experienced vets on here. What specific batter type would you recommend? What brand? I'm probably going to go ahead and get two but I might wait on the charger depending on what I can afford.

I prefer Samsung25r batteries I got s pack of 4. 1 goes in a flashlight. One goes in my istick60tc mod. When I have two that needs charging I charge them

Thanks again bro, you really cleared a lot up actually with me!

That's why we are here. See no need for Newbies to make the same mistakes we made.

the screwdriver, 2 coils, cotton and some extra O rings. Just want to make sure I'm getting everything in the kit I need. to at least wick the 2 extra coils it comes with.*

I explained how to do that on the cheap above. Using odds and ends from tool drawers you can even if you have to buy your ohm meter. You can get an ohm meter, and enough organic cotton balls and Kanthal to last you for three or four years for $30 or less probably $20 if you shop around. If someone gives of loans an ohm meter to you you are looking at $10-12.

No you aren't pushing me at all and if anything I appreciate the extra push as long as it's done with respect! I know I came

I just don't want you to get something one dimensional and you have to spend more good money because you outgrew that shiny toy in a month or two.

You also said something here that I can totally relate to and wholeheartedly agree with: the philosophy of buying the best at first rather than to regret your purchase and upgrade later thus costing us more. I totally agree and actually share the same philosophy as well... again despite asking for a one dimensional one button non VW/VV device. LOL My apologies.. but yes I'm pretty flexible. I just don't think now is the right time for TC stuff for me.

Thank you. I am glad you understand where I am coming from.

No one is saying you have to get into TC. EVEN I HAVEN'T GOTTEN INTO TC YET. But getting a good mod such as the mods I recommended in an earlier post or the Kanger Subox starter kit with the Subtank mini you have all kinds of possibilities open to you for years. Without having to get new gear because you bought the wrong thing first.

I have been vaping a long time and at 32 watts the Goblin Mini's vapor was too hot for me. I usually vape at 12.5-17.5 watts.

Later on if you want to get into TC buy s spool of Nickel, or titanium wire.

If you want to move up to a true RTA; I paid $9 and change for my Goblin Mini. I paid $10.07 for my Silverplay Nano. They are both cheap clones from China but the flavor is awesome.

If you want to try your hand at RDAs I paid $10.04 on eBay for an authentic Freakshow Mini I bought in an auction.

Getting a solid mod gives you all kinds of options, and with a removable battery your mod is not necessarily dead just because a battery fails

 

[Two_Bears]

I wouldn't touch anything made by Eleaf , there are much better engineered mods for around the same price point these days . Besides they will never warrant anything you buy , terrible company.

Phil Busardo even said they are at the very bottom when it comes to quality devices , if you want cheap they are OK though.

Many newcomers are told to buy sub ohm tanks and buy a high wattage mod to start and i couldn't disagree more , thats what many were introduced to so thats what they recommend it to others but imo it's best to start out exactly like your doing .

Take it slow and start low, 8 to 20 watts is what the overwhelming majority still vape at and the sub ohm ers are the minority not majority.

Plenty of info on here , no need to go berserk right off the bat like many do.

Only agree partially.

I have had two eleaf mods. The 40tc and the 60tc.

Both served me very well. A Vaper friend liked the 40 and I sold it to her. Added some money and bought s spare 60 TC.

Now had nothing but trouble out of eleaf tanks. You couldn't give me s free eleaf tank.

 

[CasketWeaver]

Ok.. guys, I want to clarify a few things.. I'm familiar with Variable Voltage from my Ego C twist and Vision Spinner 2 batteries. I'm also not intimidated by Tech! I'm actually quite the opposite actually but my post didn't reflect it. I just don't care for the hobby aspect at this moment. Although I doubt I ever will, I'll leave the door open for now. In the meantime I wanted to thank everyone who replied. I still get confused by the terminology so some of the things you guys are referring to sounds very foreign to me.



Wow that really helped. I think I learned more from your single post than I did reading the entire thread when it comes to the concrete general answers I was looking for. Thanks for confirming my suspicions on the difference between a regulated and non regulated mod.

I just want to be sure of something. The standard Coil heads are called Kanthal? While the only ones that offer TC are Nickle, stainless steal and two different types of Titanium? Am I right on this? I'll be honest, I just looked at the new Ego One VT and CT and I'm really confused by all of this. I just want to know if the Kanthal is the general standard and if that's also what my ego one uses? Is it what ego style batteries were designed to power?

So when it comes to Variable Voltage VV and Variable Wattage.. the Variable voltage is really the fine tuning? I used variable voltage with my old ego batteries like the twist and vision 2 spinner.

I think I'm going to decide on this but I just want to be sure on a few things (anyone please feel free to answer):

1. After reading about the product on their official site and various vendors it looks like all I'm really going to be dealing with is wattage which is basically the same idea as VV which gives the end user the ability to tailor the taste of their vapor depending on how warm and thick we like our vapor if I'm not mistaken? The way I see it, it pretty much determines how much vapor we get in addition to what ohm the coil head is. Am I right?

2. It seems the only thing I have to think about besides finding the sweet spot for the wattage is staying within the watt ranges on the guide that comes with it and is also imprinted on the coil heads but there is some conflicting information according to Rip Trippers from You Tube. So basically all I really need to really think about besides finding the sweet spot of wattage is staying within the suggested ranges of each coil head? If that is the case.. then the decision has been made and this is what I'll get. You're right this is too easy!

3. You mentioned having to buy a charger for the Subbox Mini. Doesn't the Subbox Mini have a mini usb to charge that single 18650? I'm pretty sure you mentioned this because it's a much better idea to get the charger and an extra battery so I can always have a fresh battery on hand right? I was thinking of this and I probably will but If the Subbox Mini charges the cell and if it is indeed a pass through where I can charge and vape at the same time I might be able to get away without the charger and the 2nd cell for the time being if money is tight. You got to remember that this will be my at home vape while My Ego One Mega will become something I bring in the car. Seeing as how the Sub box Mini only charges one cell, the only way to have a fully charged one on hand is to get a charger. Just want to confirm this!

4. The kit comes with 2 coil heads a 0.5ohm and a 1.5 ohm. I really dig the 0.5 on my joytech ego one mega heads and I bought a pack of 5 with it. I found the 1.ohm coil head to be very restrictive.. much like my Vision 2 spinner was in comparison with my protank 2 on it. Should I get extras of these to be on the safe side?

5. Speaking on the topic of coil heads. The one thing I noticed when I did use my 1ohm coil head for my Ego One Mega is that while it was very restrictive, it didn't seem to go through a whole tank of juice nearly as fast. I thought I read somewhere that the general rule of thumb is that the lower the ohm.. the more flavor you get and more juice you use up while the higher ohms can actually conserve and use less juice. LOL I understand everyone loves sub ohm these days but depending on how much I vape I may consider going to the 1.5 coil if money becomes tight. Seeing as how the 1.5 coil is even a high ohm than 1 isn't that going to be an even tighter draw due to the higher ohm?

6. The kit also comes with an 2 RBA coils, 2 RBA desk screws, 2 cover screws, 1 mini screwdriver and some Japanese cotton. It also comes with an RBA Mini Plus base. What is this called again, the deck or atty? I watched the review from Rip Trippers and it looks pretty easy. He did say though that he got a lot of spitback though. If the manual gets a little into detail on how to use those coils with the cotton and screwdriver I'm definitely will not let that stuff go to waste but in retrospect.. I can just ignore all that if I want to and buy more of the pre made coil heads if I choose to I'm sure right?

7. Is there a specific type of 18650 cell I need to buy? Do they vary in Mahs at all or are there other factors I need to look into? Basically I'm asking all you experienced vets on here. What specific batter type would you recommend? What brand? I'm probably going to go ahead and get two but I might wait on the charger depending on what I can afford.

8. And finally. It's 8:30Pm pacific time here in Cali and I was wondering if anyone here happens to know any last minute cyber monday sales? Otherwise I plan on getting this from sweetvapes for $50

Pretty sure I'm going to go for this if I like your answers to the above questions. Thanks again bro, you really cleared a lot up actually with me!




I'm not one of them despite how I came off. But I will say this. I like simplicity that's for sure. Part of the reason why I prefer Chromebooks and MACS to Window's PC's.. but that's another story for a different forum!



No you didn't miss it. The 0.5 Ohms by far! I used the 1 ohm up in the first day for some reason. The only downside is that I've noticed I can go through a tank twice as fast when using the 0.5 than my 1ohm.





I think you are speaking about his actual review video right? If so I saw that last night and yes that looks ridiculously easy to do but do I have the right tools? It only comes with the screwdriver, 2 coils, cotton and some extra O rings. Just want to make sure I'm getting everything in the kit I need. to at least wick the 2 extra coils it comes with.

No you aren't pushing me at all and if anything I appreciate the extra push as long as it's done with respect! I know I came off as a bit too noobish in my post after re-reading it while I should have been flexible to ideas which I really am.

You also said something here that I can totally relate to and wholeheartedly agree with: the philosophy of buying the best at first rather than to regret your purchase and upgrade later thus costing us more. I totally agree and actually share the same philosophy as well... again despite asking for a one dimensional one button non VW/VV device. LOL My apologies.. but yes I'm pretty flexible. I just don't think now is the right time for TC stuff for me.

I'm going to do my best to answer your questions in order here. Easier for everyone to understand and easier for me to dictate since those voices in my cranium are yelling "NEEDS MORE SLEEP!", so here you go - and thanks for the response by the way:

"Standard Coils" - my reference to 'standard' just means that the coils are primarily constructed from Kanthal (KA-1) or NiChrome (Ni60 / Ni70 / Ni80) - both of which are alloys. KA-1 is a ferrous iron alloy whereas Ni80 is a nickel / chromium (primarily 80 / 20) alloy. I'd avoid Ni80 if you have an allergy to nickel. KA-1 is preferred by many because of how sturdy it is, how abundant it is on the market, as well as not containing nickel. KA-1 and Ni80 ARE NOT generally used as / in TC builds. They were not designed for this purpose. Almost all VV / VW / Mechanical (unregulated) mods will use this type of wire in it's coils and coil heads.

I look at VV and VW like a manual and automatic transmission. VV being the stick shift of the two. VW is a pretty simple concept - you pick a wattage and based on Ohms Law - it will adjust the voltage automatically. Where as in VV you adjust the voltage instead and wattage is not known unless your device displays applied wattage. VV is more of a fine tuning... more deliberate tinkering in my opinion. Wattage is "set it as close as you can to..." and voila. Some think Wattage = heat... I don't totally agree with them on that because technically voltage could = heat too if you think about it. Either way, one or the other will work - but since VV is starting to fade out, best to pick up a VW device since everyone will be speaking that language soon.

1.) Yes, you will be primarily seeing VW devices versus their VV counterparts. They do allow you to adjust your vape sessions in many ways - applying more heat is good with more liquids, not so good with others, and may increase vapor and throat hit. In other words - they both allow you to tailor your vape as you need it - higher during stress, lower when relaxed, and in between when carrying out normal tasks. As far as how things work - look at this:
Ohms Law Calculator
Sorry, I'm no math expert LOL~ But Ohm's Law is the thing that needs to have attention paid to it in the vape world. As we're using resistances, volts, watts, and amperage. Plug a few random numbers in there, maybe you can figure out how it gets to it's numbers better than I can.

2.) Staying between the limits of the coil / coil head is suggested - yes. Slightly higher than suggested may shorten the life span of the coil - but MAY NOT IMPACT the performance. EXTREMELY higher than suggested MAY IMPACT performance AND may damage the coil / wicking material. I told you, you'd get the hang of it. Going below the limits may cause the atomizer to not perform - leading to flooding as the end user may continue to pull which will continue to draw juice into the atomizer / chamber at a rate faster than the atomizer can vaporize the liquid. The 'sweet spot' is usually in between the minimum and maximum 'suggested limits' - but in reality - the sweet spot is where you find your vape satisfying.
Example: A coil head marked 20-100W - the sweet spot may be 45-50W for the coil, but MY sweet spot may be 60-75W. Just depends on where YOU like it.

3.) The Subbox Mini can be charged VIA USB cable - however, I mentioned a charger in the event you want to have a spare battery on hand. In total I have over 16 batteries - 4 sets are paired (8), 4 are 26650's, and 4 are unpaired 18650's (for my tootle mod). So, when a set of batteries dies in my box, I can either plug it in and vape while it's charging OR I can pull a freshly charged set and drop those in. I suggest having a spare or two on hand. JUST IN CASE - better safe than sorry. As far as "fully charged" cell - no, it will fully charge if left alone to charge for long enough - pass through is good - but not perfect. Everytime you hit the fire button, you technically "pause the charge" to deliver what power you're drawing to fire the atomizer.

4.) If you enjoy the .5Ohm coil heads, then YES buy a few spares. Unless tinkering is your thing, you can easily rebuild them - and I believe the Subbox Mini kit comes with the tanks RBA section as well. So you can pick up a spool of Kanthal and a bag or ORGANIC cotton. All cotton is organic of course - just make sure it's been whitened with PEROXIDE - NOT BLEACH (if it's been whitened at all). Most vape shops will carry organic cotton. Some of the popular brands are the Japanese Organic Cotton sheets - Ko Gen Do - for instance.

5.) The tighter draw comes from the hole size in the BOTTOM of the coil (not the juice ports on the side). They restricted it because a 1.5Ohm coil needs less air to help cool the hot metal down than the .5Ohm coil needs. It conserves juice better because of it's higher resistance. It also helps conserve juice a bit because it requires less power overall to fire the coil. Ex. 1.5Ohm coil requires 9.2W to get 3.7V whereas the .5Ohm coil needs 27W to reach 3.7V. Which WATTS at this point = heat.

6.) The RBA section itself is the "deck". The assembled unit is the atomizer (atty). Technically - the "deck" is where the atomizer (the parts that vaporize the liquid) sits. The manual is very vague on how to build a proper coil. The way to build a "proper" coil is through trial and error as well as practice. I can record videos all day and post them up on the net for folks to watch... but that does nothing unless the person gets out there and practices is themselves. The problem with building (but since you're going with the Subbox - pay little attention to this) is it can have devastating consequences on unregulated devices. Battery venting being the biggest one. If the coil is built right and you're making sure you're wired properly and not shorted out somewhere - everything will be all good. A short is the biggest cause for concern because it is making a nonstop continuous circuit which is BAD. BAD BAD BAD! On regulated devices - there are protections in place that will prevent damage to the device and battery. So getting a short from time to time isn't DEVASTATING as much as it's a pain in the .... Tips for you when you begin building - keep your wire clean and dust free, keep your build / build deck area clean and free of wire clippings, use the right tool for the job, pay attention to where your coils and leads are at all times (make sure the coil ISN'T touching the base / wall or barrel), and use the safest batteries. Don't skimp on the batteries man - you'll be the one that pays the piper in the end.

7.) I'd say any of the LG's, Panasonics, or Samsungs. The old battery of choice here was the Sony VTC4 / VTC5. As long as you make sure it's capable of 20Amps+ discharge rate you should be fine. 30A is optimal - DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE / HEAR ABOUT with these 'bloated' amp ratings on batteries (60A+)... as far as mAh (milli-Amp hour) is concerned... the higher the mAh is - generally the longer that battery is going to last. Granted that will VARY depending on power setting... but the general rule of thumb here is - higher = not always better. You need to look at the other aspects as well (SEE AMP RATINGS).

As far as TC is concerned - play around in VW and build some coils FIRST - then we'll talk about TC because Ni200 wire is soft - SOFT SOFT SOFT! And Ti01 / 02 is SPRINGY. Plus TC can be VERY finicky if mishandled. I hope some of this answered your questions - if they did - more power to you. I believe in empowering people through knowledge first - then allowing you to experiment at your own pace. The more you know, the easier of a time you'll have.

Also note that over time when you're bored with your Subtank Mini, there are MANY MANY MANY different atomizers out there that will work with your Subbox - which is another reason I feel you'll appreciate it down the line - until you get to the 'hobbyist' portion of it. Had I had the opportunity to do it all again - I would have went straight to VW and not even messed with mechs or ego style pens.

 

[Just Want To Quit]

Wow fellas, @Two_Bears and @CasketWeaver

Thanks a lot for that wealth of info guys. I'm not just saying this, I really mean it.. It cleared up all my general questions in a nutshell and I actually feel as if I'm learned a lot from reading it. Since making my decision I'm still confused on the batteries despite you guys giving me the models you use.

This is the battery Sweetvapes.com recommends:
LG HG2 3000mah 18650 20A

And this is the charger they recommend:
Nitecore UM20 Charger

Is that battery compatible with that charger? Also I really don't want to skimp out on the battery, and want the absolute best specs. I'm sorry I have no clue about Amps and all these battery specs and how they relate to the charger at all. As far as I'm concerned I just want to order this ASAP and be sure everything is right because I can read up about all this later. Right now I just want this in the mail being sent to me already.

Also does anyone happen to know the best deal for the Subbox Mini off the top of their head? I'm currently looking for a site with free shipping.

PERFECT sweet spot and satisfying vape. For me my sweet spot is .8-1 ohm. Another benefit when the vape tastes off I can gently pull out the cotton and in the RBA dry burn the coil to clean off the gunk. Install a new wick and it is likeva brand new coil. I have had one coil last for three months.

You will need a spool of Kanthal. I recommended 26 gauge. You can get a 100 foot spool of Kanthal on eBay for $5 or less. That is enough Kanthal to make 200-300 coils depending on how wasteful you are.

I'm assuming you prefer mouth to lung hits with your preference of between 0.8 and 1.0 ohm coils? I'm going to experiment with the 1 ohm (i think it's 1.2 or 1.5 I forgot) coil it comes with and see if it like it. I also noticed you recommended a 26 gauge? I'm just curious because I watched another rebuilding video of Kanger's stock RBA in this kit and the guy said the coil Kanger used was a 28 gauge? I'm just curious if this 26 gauge Kanthal you are recommending is based on your own preferences or based this particular kit and stock RBA? Sorry for the confusion.

Nothing else to address since you made everything else crystal clear. Thanks for taking the time to address things. The only thing I need to look into is these battery specs on these 18650's.

I look at VV and VW like a manual and automatic transmission. VV being the stick shift of the two. VW is a pretty simple concept - you pick a wattage and based on Ohms Law - it will adjust the voltage automatically. Where as in VV you adjust the voltage instead and wattage is not known unless your device displays applied wattage. VV is more of a fine tuning... more deliberate tinkering in my opinion. Wattage is "set it as close as you can to..." and voila. Some think Wattage = heat... I don't totally agree with them on that because technically voltage could = heat too if you think about it. Either way, one or the other will work - but since VV is starting to fade out, best to pick up a VW device since everyone will be speaking that language soon.

1.) Yes, you will be primarily seeing VW devices versus their VV counterparts. They do allow you to adjust your vape sessions in many ways - applying more heat is good with more liquids, not so good with others, and may increase vapor and throat hit. In other words - they both allow you to tailor your vape as you need it - higher during stress, lower when relaxed, and in between when carrying out normal tasks. As far as how things work - look at this:
Ohms Law Calculator
Sorry, I'm no math expert LOL~ But Ohm's Law is the thing that needs to have attention paid to it in the vape world. As we're using resistances, volts, watts, and amperage. Plug a few random numbers in there, maybe you can figure out how it gets to it's numbers better than I can.

7.) I'd say any of the LG's, Panasonics, or Samsungs. The old battery of choice here was the Sony VTC4 / VTC5. As long as you make sure it's capable of 20Amps+ discharge rate you should be fine. 30A is optimal - DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE / HEAR ABOUT with these 'bloated' amp ratings on batteries (60A+)... as far as mAh (milli-Amp hour) is concerned... the higher the mAh is - generally the longer that battery is going to last. Granted that will VARY depending on power setting... but the general rule of thumb here is - higher = not always better. You need to look at the other aspects as well (SEE AMP RATINGS).

From what I understand now of VV and VW.. your analogy makes total sense!

As far as that Ohm calculator goes, I didn't grasp the concept but I have seen youtube videos on it and I'll definitely check it out. The videos seem like they really lay things out in layman's terms. LOL and don't worry, I'm not the math expert either. It's funny how I aced algebra 1 and 2 back in high school, but I can't remember how to long divide by hand and forgot how to convert fractions to percentages, decimals to percentages (but wait didn't have that something to do with moving the decimal point? LOL) and pretty much everything else. As with anyone else it pretty much has to do with lack of using math in real world applications besides basic addition, subtraction, multiplication and division. So don't feel bad about not being the math expert.

 

[Lauren Tong]

come on

 

[IMFire3605]

Wow fellas, @Two_Bears and @CasketWeaver

Thanks a lot for that wealth of info guys. I'm not just saying this, I really mean it.. It cleared up all my general questions in a nutshell and I actually feel as if I'm learned a lot from reading it. Since making my decision I'm still confused on the batteries despite you guys giving me the models you use.

This is the battery Sweetvapes.com recommends:
LG HG2 3000mah 18650 20A

And this is the charger they recommend:
Nitecore UM20 Charger

....................

I'll address these two items, batteries and chargers are actually the most important and volatile aspects of vaping in general. The LG HG2 (3000mah 20amp CDR) and Samsung 30Q (3000mah 15 to 20amps CDR) are superstars in the 50watt and below field, plenty of mAh to last each charge a very good amount of time and enough CDR to handle the abuse at that range. I've seen the Nitecore UM20, Grimm Green (Nick) gave a good review on it, a very nice mobile charger if you can find a good USB port to plug it in, 2 bays and compact, great little compact trickle charger will keep the batteries happy during charging, you'll just need a USB wall wart outlet for it. Seen your post earlier on using the onboard charger, you can do that, "YET", use that option when out and about and need a charge, monitor the mod and temp by touch during charging, some onboard chargers are not the most reliable (Pioneer4You (IPV Line), think Eleaf also had some charger issues) so be aware of that. So if money is tight at initial purchase, do plan on next paycheck getting an external charger and spare battery or extra pair of batteries with a battery case for carrying and transport (stay away from any batteries that claim CDR higher than 30amps, there are only two true 30amps the Sony VTC3 and LG HB6, there are no 35 or higher CDR batteries, Efest and the others are printing the Micro Pulse Discharge Rate as the CDR of their re-wrapped batteries)

 

[Just Want To Quit]

Haha, it's ok, I'm going to wait til tomorrow anyhow, it's a little late here in Cali.

Just wanted to say, I just tried Nicotine Ejuice for the first time in one of my favorite flavors.. Ruthless E Juice "Jungle Fever". I bought 12mg to go with my almost 4 to 10 cigs a day. Lets just say I noticed the difference immediately as well as the color of the juice. The 0 Nicotine Jungle Fever was a lot lighter in color and the flavor of the pineapple and mango has definitely took a hit because of the nicotine. I'm not saying it tastes bad, but the flavor has diminished from the 0 Nicotine type. Now I noticed, I got a head buzz, very similar to a cig and I sort of find myself not chain vaping with this due to the nicotine fix and the head buzz. I guess that can be considered a good and a bad thing but right now I honestly think having Nicotine in my juice will make me vape less. Or maybe I'll save the Nicotine for throughout the day, and save the 0 Nicotine for when I just want that flavor.. very akin to an after dinner mint IMO!

On the official website, Ruthless says it's a 90/10 VG/PG blend. I'm surprised the 0mg style of this flavor was as tasty on the pallet since PG is the flavor carrier. Not sure if there is any difference in how these E juice companies ratio it. Would they use a different VG/PG ratio with a nicotine juice as opposed to without?

The 2 juices that I tried in my Ego One Mega that I absolutely fell in love with were CERTIFIED 365 (A wonderful blend of Butterscotch and Vanilla Custard) and this JUNGLE FEVER (Mangos/Pineapples/and Citrus). I heard there was a harmful chemical that started with a D that is common in Butterscotch and/or Vanilla desert style e Juices. Is this true? Should I be worried?

 

[Two_Bears]

Thanks a lot for that wealth of info guys. I'm not just saying this, I really mean it.. It cleared up all my general questions in a nutshell and I actually feel as if I'm learned a lot from reading it. Since making my

You're very welcome.

This is the battery Sweetvapes.com recommends:
LG HG2 3000mah 18650 20A

And this is the charger they recommend:
Nitecore UM20 Charger

I use Samsung25r batteries but have heard good things about LG and Sony.

Nite Core makes good chargers..

I'm assuming you prefer mouth to lung hits with your preference of between 0.8 and 1.0 ohm coils? I'm going to experiment with the 1 ohm (i think it's 1.2 or 1.5 I

I build all my devices in the range of .8-1ohm. That is where I like my vape.

When I vape on my Goblin Mini, Silverplay Nano, or Orchid I do full lung hits because they have sufficient airflow for lung hits.

I used to use a Kayfun before I got my Silverplay Nano. It has very limited airflow so I used it as MTL device.

also noticed you recommended a 26 gauge? I'm just curious because I watched another rebuilding video of Kanger's stock RBA in this kit and the guy said the coil Kanger used was a 28 gauge?

I did. Both 26 and 28 gauge Kanthal are very good for coils.

26 gauge is my preferred gauge for two reasons.

1. 26 gauge is thicker and sturdier than 28. Soi can remove a fouled wick and insert another without damaging the coil. By rewicking my coil I have had coils last for three months.

2. Since 26 is thicker and stronger than 28 I don't have to worry about screws cutting the wire when I tighten the screws.

I'm just curious if this 26 gauge Kanthal you are recommending is based on your own preferences or based this particular kit and stock RBA? Sorry for the confusion.

It all DEPENDS on the device I am building.

The Orchid,Silverplay Nano, and Goblin Mini have post holes meaning you trap the leads under the bottom of the screw. Some times this will cut 28 gauge but not 26 gauge.

If you are using a Kayfun where you trap the leads under the screw heads 28 gauge is fine because the head of the screw will not cut the 28 gauge. However I still prefer 26 gauge because it is thicker and can remove a dirty or scorched wick without damaging the coil.

I have about 50 feet of 28 gauge but almost 500 feet of 26 gauge.

Nothing else to address since you made everything else crystal clear. Thanks for taking the time to address things.

MY PLEASURE BROTHER

It's funny how I aced algebra 1 and 2 back in high school,

I was an algebra machine in high school. In Algebra Bee's I could do the problem in my head and shout out the answer before my opponent could write down the problem. Never use it any more because I don't need it. But do keep my mind sharp by playing Bridge, Sudoku, and reading 96 books so far this year.

I carry my smartphone and when I have a few minutes to wait, I take out my phone and open a Kindle book and start flipping pages. I hate sitting still with nothing to do

 

[Two_Bears]

Haha, it's ok, I'm going to wait til tomorrow anyhow, it's a little late here in Cali.

Just wanted to say, I just tried Nicotine Ejuice for the first time in one of my favorite flavors.. Ruthless E Juice "Jungle Fever". I bought 12mg to go with my almost 4 to 10 cigs a day. Lets just say I noticed the difference immediately as well as the color of the juice. The 0 Nicotine Jungle Fever was a lot lighter in color and the flavor of the pineapple and mango has definitely took a hit because of the nicotine. I'm not saying it tastes bad, but the flavor has diminished from the 0 Nicotine type. Now I noticed, I got a head buzz, very similar to a cig and I sort of find myself not chain vaping with this due to the nicotine fix and the head buzz. I guess that can be considered a good and a bad thing but right now I honestly think having Nicotine in my juice will make me vape less. Or maybe I'll save the Nicotine for throughout the day, and save the 0 Nicotine for when I just want that flavor.. very akin to an after dinner mint IMO!

On the official website, Ruthless says it's a 90/10 VG/PG blend. I'm surprised the 0mg style of this flavor was as tasty on the pallet since PG is the flavor carrier. Not sure if there is any difference in how these E juice companies ratio it. Would they use a different VG/PG ratio with a nicotine juice as opposed to without?

The 2 juices that I tried in my Ego One Mega that I absolutely fell in love with were CERTIFIED 365 (A wonderful blend of Butterscotch and Vanilla Custard) and this JUNGLE FEVER (Mangos/Pineapples/and Citrus). I heard there was a harmful chemical that started with a D that is common in Butterscotch and/or Vanilla desert style e Juices. Is this true? Should I be worried?

If I can remember how it is spelled it is Dycetyl. Phonetic Dia cetyl.

Very bad chemicsl. Always check with juice manufacturers.

It causes what is sometimes called popcorn lung.

 

[CasketWeaver]

Yes that battery should work in that charger unless either or both are defective. As far as mouth-to-lung inhalation... That's up to the end user. I've mouth to lung inhaled .5 ohms and lower. Mouth to lung doesn't always mean that the coil is higher resistance, it just depends on what you like really. Its easier to mouth to lung pulls at higher resistance be a use they're not as hot as something @.5 and lower, but still... It can be adjusted to be as cool or as warm as you need it.

As far as wire gauge is concerned... I'd go midline if I were you. 26-28AWG to start... 24AWG and lower (don't go below 22AWG) later. Why? Because the lower the gauge, the stiffer the wire and lower resistance. Plus you may find yourself struggling to find an arty that will swallow that wire without issue. Nichrome on the other hand... 24, 22, & 20AWG are all pretty good wire gauges. The issue with those is resistance. They are 1/4 - 1/2 the resistance of their kanthal counterparts due to their nickel content. And may not work with all devices.

 

[Tol]

As far as mouth-to-lung inhalation... That's up to the end user. I've mouth to lung inhaled .5 ohms and lower. Mouth to lung doesn't always mean that the coil is higher resistance, it just depends on what you like really. Its easier to mouth to lung pulls at higher resistance be a use they're not as hot as something @.5 and lower, but still... It can be adjusted to be as cool or as warm as you need it.

Yep, it mostly comes down to air flow and temp for MTL. I have done it for .5 and lower as well and I do direct to lung with higher resists regularly. Providing yourself flexibility is always good and knowing how to keep yourself safe while doing it. Steam Engine is my best friend for vaping. Great little suite of tools and they have an App you can download to your phone too

 

[HighPlainsPuffer]

Haha, it's ok, I'm going to wait til tomorrow anyhow, it's a little late here in Cali.

Where you at in CA? I'm currently in SD, if you're local I'd be happy to show you some stuff!

 

[CasketWeaver]

Yep, it mostly comes down to air flow and temp for MTL. I have done it for .5 and lower as well and I do direct to lung with higher resists regularly. Providing yourself flexibility is always good and knowing how to keep yourself safe while doing it. Steam Engine is my best friend for vaping. Great little suite of tools and they have an App you can download to your phone too

Good to see I'm not the only one that likes a warm... REALLY warm vape. Yeah - steam engine is good. I honestly wish there was a better way of explaining resistance / foot, Ohm's Law and how it works, and proper battery care and safety a lot better than I do. But a 20A battery should be fine for use in most regulated devices.

As far as Diacetyl is concerned - there is a little to worry about - but until studies prove otherwise, try to avoid liquids that don't carry test results with them if it's the fear that's making you want to avoid them. I vape vanillas, custards, yogurt's, etc all day and I haven't noticed anything with my respiratory system yet. Hell, I don't think the doctors have noticed anything yet either with all the chest x-rays I receive constantly. But that's neither here nor there. Vape what you like, IMO. And even though others may tell you otherwise, do what you are comfortable with. Like all things in life - unnecessary risks can be avoided, but at what cost?

 

[Just Want To Quit]

Thank you to everyone who replied! Especially for clearing up the compatibility between the Battery, Charger and Subbox! You guys and gals really know your stuff! I'm going to contact Certified Juices about this and find out for sure. In the meantime, I didn't sleep last night at all and I think it was due to the 12mg nicotine juice I mentioned. I read up on it today after coming home from work early (I just was in a daze with no sleep) and apparently Nicotine can keep you up at night because well as we all should know it's a stimulant.

I was smoking about 5 to 7 cigs a day, did I choose the right dose? I'm thinking of mixing it with another non nicotine juice because I honestly think it's too strong. It's like 2 or 3 mouth to lung drags of my Ego One Mega, and I feel as If I just chained smoked 2 cigarettes in less than 30 seconds or so! I understand everyone is different but is it normal to get this kind of a headrush? As I said yesterday was the first time I bought and tried nicotine juice and I think after this, I'm going to drop it down to 6mg. The throat hit is also much harsher and as I mentioned before, the non nicotine version of this juice tasted so much better.. almost a night and day difference. When you guys first got into vaping, did you experience this as well?

The other thing that concerns me of course is nicotine overdose. Not that I'm concerned because I know by body, how I feel and simply stop when I don't like how I'm feeling, but I am concerned for people new to vaping as well as my uncle who I plan on getting an unregulated one button mod like an Ego One, Ijust2, Evod or that Wismec Venti. When it comes to my uncle.. he would be intimidated by anything tech and to be honest I don't even know if he's going to take to just filling the juice and changing the CLR coils.

@HighPlainsPuffer I'm over in the San Fernando Valley bud! That's La County. Wish you were closer, I would love to check out some stuff!

 

[speedy_r6]

VW is a pretty simple concept - you pick a wattage and based on Ohms Law - it will adjust the voltage automatically. Where as in VV you adjust the voltage instead and wattage is not known unless your device displays applied wattage. VV is more of a fine tuning... more deliberate tinkering in my opinion.

Can't say I really agree with this. If your mod only gives you the option to set down to the tenth of a volt(0.1v), you are jumping over a small range in wattage. If you have a 0.3 ohm coil on there and go from 3.5v to 3.6v, you have gone from 40.8 watts straight to 43.2 watts. If you have a mod that lets you go in tenths of a watt(which is the range most allow you to adjust in), you can go any of the areas in between that range, meaning you have much more fine tuning. Even with a mod that can only adjust in 0.5 watt increments, you still have 41w, 41.5w, 42w, 42.5w, and 43w in there you can use. Even if we rule out 41w and 43w as being close enough to the 40.8 and 43.2, you are still left with some other options that the voltage just won't let you get at the tenth of a volt.

Even if you are able to adjust to the hundredth of a volt(0.01v) on the same coil, 3.5 to 3.51, you have still gone from 40.8 watts to 41.1 watts. If you have a mod that adjusts to the tenth of the watt, you still have finer tuning in between there. Granted, it is splitting hairs at that point, but variable wattage typically gives you the ability to fine tune the power a little more than variable voltage

 

[Just Want To Quit]

Really upset now.. sweetvapes is down today and must have been down yesterday too because I must have sent 10 password reset requests last night and not a single one got to my inbox. I really wanted to order from here because they have exactly what I know will work. I'm looking at other retailers right now but all I'm seeing is higher prices or I can't buy all 4 items from the same website. Looks like I'll be waiting another day but if sweetvapes isn't up by tomorrow I'll be taking my business elsewhere.

 

[Elizabeth Baldwin]

You are going to get a million different opinions in here. LOL

I think picking the Subox/Kbox mini kit is a perfect choice. It's not complex, but it's a complete kit with advanced vaping. You can use it as a beginner or an advanced user.

It looks like all your questions have been answered so good luck.

 

[Just Want To Quit]

You are going to get a million different opinions in here. LOL

I think picking the Subox/Kbox mini kit is a perfect choice. It's not complex, but it's a complete kit with advanced vaping. You can use it as a beginner or an advanced user.

It looks like all your questions have been answered so good luck.

Thank you!!!

 

[Two_Bears]

Can't say I really agree with this. If your mod only gives you the option to set down to the tenth of a volt(0.1v), you are jumping over a small range in wattage. If you have a 0.3 ohm coil on there and go from 3.5v to 3.6v, you have gone from 40.8 watts straight to 43.2 watts. If you have a mod that lets you go in tenths of a watt(which is the range most allow you to adjust in), you can go any of the areas in between that range, meaning you have much more fine tuning. Even with a mod that can only adjust in 0.5 watt increments, you still have 41w, 41.5w, 42w, 42.5w, and 43w in there you can use. Even if we rule out 41w and 43w as being close enough to the 40.8 and 43.2, you are still left with some other options that the voltage just won't let you get at the tenth of a volt.

Even if you are able to adjust to the hundredth of a volt(0.01v) on the same coil, 3.5 to 3.51, you have still gone from 40.8 watts to 41.1 watts. If you have a mod that adjusts to the tenth of the watt, you still have finer tuning in between there. Granted, it is splitting hairs at that point, but variable wattage typically gives you the ability to fine tune the power a little more than variable voltage

This is exactly why I tell people stay in wattage mode and avoid voltage mode.

You have much finer control of Vaping experience in wattage mode.