My Vamo is 14 months old and still works fine. If you treat them well they hold up ok. I have not dropped it or had issues with cross threading. I run an IBTanked on it everyday.
The trick is to put this adapter on as soon as you can, before the original threads "go south". My original V2 wouldn't accept a T3, it does now!
I drop them all the time on everything from carpet to stone flags. I also drop them off of tables, desks and out of bags.
6 weeks and my Vamo V2, newer version as it's a magenta color and lightweight, started reading the ohms funny (9.9). Found out that it meant the ohms were at 0, so it wasn't reading my tanks. Changed the o-ring as recommended, and could finally use it, but only with tank airflow controllers or an adapter. Changed the o-ring again, now I can only use ProTanks, iClear 30's, or similar, without an airflow tank controller. Gave up and put it into retirement. Might get a Vamo V5, if I find out it doesn't have the same issue. That or a *swearword* SID.
my 2 month old v3's threads are almost gone... my UDCT still works, but nothing else that is not ego threaded will work. Thinking about trying to build my own ego to 510 adapter.. the ego-w head looks promising... if not, I'll be ordering a v5, and building a vamo box mod! then replacing the connector will be a breeze!
To both of you, you might consider a new top. Though it does involve soldering. They sell V2 tops which will work on V3s and V5s as well. But again, you have to unsolder the neg and pos wire from the existing top, and re-solder on to the new top. Vicflo put a new V2 top on his Vamo 5 when he ruined his threads.... and the V5 is the same as the V3 without the swirls, basically.
I have a V2, what o'ring needs to be changed and how do you change it.
If it's working, you don't need to change it. But the o-ring in question is the one at the base of the 510 threads on the Vamo's head.