I'll start by saying that I know there is already a thread on this with a video; but this is my take on rebuilding these OCC coils for sub ohm range close to advertised rating.
I just did the build all of the following pics are from and I'm vaping on it as I type this post.
To start I did a full disassembly step by step to show how simple it truly is.
For this build I'm starting with the useless 1.2ohm coil that came with my subtank nano.
This step is optional but I used 2 pairs of pliers to separate the top from the frame. (I do this to make things a little easier but you can leave this in place.)
Next remove the positive pin and insulator from the bottom. I do this with my fingers.
Next remove the old coil and wick. It can be pulled out the top or bottom (if leaving the top on the frame removing it threw the bottom is best to avoid damaging the seal to the chimney tube)
At this point I wanted to show the size of the inside diameter of the original coil. The ID is ~3.5mm but being I don't own anything that size ATM I found the closest american drill bit; the closest is 9/64" (3.57mm)
Now its time to rebuild [emoji41]
I've done this a number of times with different wire and with different sizes of drill bits and screwdrivers.
I have found the best wire is Nichrome 80 26 gauge.
I cut a 4" long piece of wire (I'd suggest using a 5" or 6" long for your first try to make things easier until you get used to it) and do a 5 wrap coil.
At this point I'd like to point out a couple things with choosing what size you want to wrap on.
The juice holes on the frame are 3mm and thus rapping the coil on a 3mm ID will make keeping the coil aligned easier when reassembling but will result in a coil with a lower resistance (about 0.46ohm every time I've done it).
If you have a 3.5mm bit to wrap on I believe that it will get you right at about 0.5ohm but I haven't been able to do it yet; using a 9/64" (3.57mm) drill bit will get you very close (0.52ohm every time I've done it including this build). When using the larger diameter to wrap on makes keeping the coil in place a bit harder when assembling.
Here is my spaced 5 wrap coil on 9/64" drill bit.
Comparing my new coil to the old one. The top coil is the old 1.2 ohm coil (its 30g I think in order to get that high resistance but the 0.5ohm coils use thicker wire)
Its important to heat the wire to get the machine oil off before installing the coil because you can't do it installed like on an RDA. Also it helps the wire keep its shape better.
Next place the coil into the frame and use a 3mm (or close) screwdriver or drill bit to hold the coil in place.
Flip the frame over and choose one of the coil legs to be the negative and bend it over the bottom of the frame.
You can cut the extra length of negative leg off before or after installing the rubber insulator back into the frame (I do it before). When installing the insulator be sure the other leg (positive) goes threw the center hole.
And bend the positive leg to the opposite side as you bent the negative leg.
Now you can install the positive pin back into the insulator. And once again you can cut the extra length of the leg before or after installing the positive pin (again I do it before).
Its important to note that the positive and negative legs be cut to where they don't set past the insulator or positive pin so a short doesn't occur (be sure that you can install the OCC into your subtank base without snagging)
Now flip the frame back over and make sure your coil is centered and the spacing is good.
Now pull the screwdriver or bit out of the coil and frame to make sure its still in place and adjust as needed.
Next its time to wick.
For this I'm using part on an organic cotton ball (you can use your choice but if you are following this and using Nichrome do not use cotton bacon).
Roll the cotton and slide it threw the frame and coil. Don't make the cotton to tight or it won't wick right; you want it snug but able to move without it missing with the coil (this may unfortunately take some trial and error so don't give up) if its too tight you will get lots of dry hits.
Cut the cotton a little past the outside of the frame.
Now this can be a little fun but I've learned the hard way there was a reason why kanger did this. Push the cotton into the frame.
Finally if you removed the top you have to reinstall it. I work around the edges with a pair of pliers until its back in place.
All done this build came out to 0.52ohm.
Don't forget to prime your coils and allow a little vape time for break in time for the flavor to come out.
Hope this helps others.
Using Kanthal wire can/will result in different ohm ranges and heat ranges but will work.
I wanted to add that I use flush cut wire cutters from harbor freight tools and a small butane torch from harbor freight tools (less than $15 for both) and I use them for all my builds.
I just did the build all of the following pics are from and I'm vaping on it as I type this post.
To start I did a full disassembly step by step to show how simple it truly is.
For this build I'm starting with the useless 1.2ohm coil that came with my subtank nano.
This step is optional but I used 2 pairs of pliers to separate the top from the frame. (I do this to make things a little easier but you can leave this in place.)
Next remove the positive pin and insulator from the bottom. I do this with my fingers.
Next remove the old coil and wick. It can be pulled out the top or bottom (if leaving the top on the frame removing it threw the bottom is best to avoid damaging the seal to the chimney tube)
At this point I wanted to show the size of the inside diameter of the original coil. The ID is ~3.5mm but being I don't own anything that size ATM I found the closest american drill bit; the closest is 9/64" (3.57mm)
Now its time to rebuild [emoji41]
I've done this a number of times with different wire and with different sizes of drill bits and screwdrivers.
I have found the best wire is Nichrome 80 26 gauge.
I cut a 4" long piece of wire (I'd suggest using a 5" or 6" long for your first try to make things easier until you get used to it) and do a 5 wrap coil.
At this point I'd like to point out a couple things with choosing what size you want to wrap on.
The juice holes on the frame are 3mm and thus rapping the coil on a 3mm ID will make keeping the coil aligned easier when reassembling but will result in a coil with a lower resistance (about 0.46ohm every time I've done it).
If you have a 3.5mm bit to wrap on I believe that it will get you right at about 0.5ohm but I haven't been able to do it yet; using a 9/64" (3.57mm) drill bit will get you very close (0.52ohm every time I've done it including this build). When using the larger diameter to wrap on makes keeping the coil in place a bit harder when assembling.
Here is my spaced 5 wrap coil on 9/64" drill bit.
Comparing my new coil to the old one. The top coil is the old 1.2 ohm coil (its 30g I think in order to get that high resistance but the 0.5ohm coils use thicker wire)
Its important to heat the wire to get the machine oil off before installing the coil because you can't do it installed like on an RDA. Also it helps the wire keep its shape better.
Next place the coil into the frame and use a 3mm (or close) screwdriver or drill bit to hold the coil in place.
Flip the frame over and choose one of the coil legs to be the negative and bend it over the bottom of the frame.
You can cut the extra length of negative leg off before or after installing the rubber insulator back into the frame (I do it before). When installing the insulator be sure the other leg (positive) goes threw the center hole.
And bend the positive leg to the opposite side as you bent the negative leg.
Now you can install the positive pin back into the insulator. And once again you can cut the extra length of the leg before or after installing the positive pin (again I do it before).
Its important to note that the positive and negative legs be cut to where they don't set past the insulator or positive pin so a short doesn't occur (be sure that you can install the OCC into your subtank base without snagging)
Now flip the frame back over and make sure your coil is centered and the spacing is good.
Now pull the screwdriver or bit out of the coil and frame to make sure its still in place and adjust as needed.
Next its time to wick.
For this I'm using part on an organic cotton ball (you can use your choice but if you are following this and using Nichrome do not use cotton bacon).
Roll the cotton and slide it threw the frame and coil. Don't make the cotton to tight or it won't wick right; you want it snug but able to move without it missing with the coil (this may unfortunately take some trial and error so don't give up) if its too tight you will get lots of dry hits.
Cut the cotton a little past the outside of the frame.
Now this can be a little fun but I've learned the hard way there was a reason why kanger did this. Push the cotton into the frame.
Finally if you removed the top you have to reinstall it. I work around the edges with a pair of pliers until its back in place.
All done this build came out to 0.52ohm.
Don't forget to prime your coils and allow a little vape time for break in time for the flavor to come out.
Hope this helps others.
Using Kanthal wire can/will result in different ohm ranges and heat ranges but will work.
I wanted to add that I use flush cut wire cutters from harbor freight tools and a small butane torch from harbor freight tools (less than $15 for both) and I use them for all my builds.
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