I need Baditude and/or Bad ninjas help

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Zutankhamun

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@Baditude @Bad Ninja (totally forgot the @thing) I am getting this mod delivered - Core v2 G22-18650 GUS Battery case matte.
I will not be using it for clouds. Specifically 1.3 ohm builds and like squapes and phenomenons for roundabout 11-14 watts. The mod has a fused pole built in and I'm using safe 25r and vtc4 batts. Do you recommend I still drill vent holes in the top? Thanks
 

Zutankhamun

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@Bad Ninja Cool. No I have done my research for a long time. I know that my batteries are capable of 20 and 30 A. We'll say 20 to be safe and I'll only be pulling 3.2. There's a fuse which comes with the mod which I won't change. Think he's sending a 7 and a 12. So totally cool for shorts. Authentic and I think I can rely on Gus. My concern is that if the fuse fails on me ( I overthink things), a hard short would require adequate venting so I'm thinking I should. Don't want to though. You have quite the reputation here and just wondered if you would. Don't worry your word isn't gospel, your opinion valued though. Cheers.
 

sparkky1

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@Baditude @Bad Ninja (totally forgot the @thing) I am getting this mod delivered - Core v2 G22-18650 GUS Battery case matte.
I will not be using it for clouds. Specifically 1.3 ohm builds and like squapes and phenomenons for roundabout 11-14 watts. The mod has a fused pole built in and I'm using safe 25r and vtc4 batts. Do you recommend I still drill vent holes in the top? Thanks

Do you understand ohms law, do you build coils and have an accurate ohm meter and i'm assuming your well versed on battery safety.
The whole point behind having a 7A / 12A fuse installed is that when blown it opens the circuit, i'm not really sure if you answered yes to the first two question and fully understand third part, why in the world would you think you would need to drill vent holes and are so worried about 20A battery's going into thermal runaway
 
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bwh79

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Ninja has a point about not doing something unless you know the why and the how, but in this case I don't see how it could hurt. I mean, provided you actually have the equipment and experience to drill the holes in the first place. The builds you're proposing are well within safe limits for the battery, but excrement does in fact happen and the holes are intended as a last-resort in case of malfunction, not something you would ever "plan" to use at all. What I'm saying is, you should stay within safe battery limits whether or not the holes are there, but if something goes wrong anyway, it's better to have them there than not.
 

Zutankhamun

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Thanks guys. Yes @sparkky1 yes to all of those. It's what bwh79 said. It's more the freakish event happening which means a hard short happens and I am not protected. The mod is plain but nicer without the holes. Aesthetics is a different matter though. No I think I'll be totally cool without just wanted people who do know more than I do to give there opinions. Don't worry I'll risk the 1.3 without extra holes for now. Dn Dn Dnnn...
 

Nikea Tiber

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I wouldn't drill holes in it, either. Primarily because GUS makes a nice mod, and because stainless steel is a royal pain in the .... to drill unless you have a drill press with a nice vise.

Because the mod has a fuse, a hard short at the atty will pop the fuse. As long as the installed battery has a fully intact wrap you will be fine.
 

Baditude

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Everyone is free to set their own safety parameters. Based on known and hypothetical evidence, you must decide how far you want to go to be relatively safe with a mechanical mod.

Our forum administrator, Rolygate, has written the following:
-Sealed metal tubes will probably explode if a battery vents violently
-The battery itself may physically block gas from escaping to the bottom of the mod
- Small vents at the bottom of the tube are useless, only very large gas vents near the top have a good chance of preventing an explosion


Looking at a pic of the Gus mech mod, I don't see any ventilation holes in the upper 1/3 of the mod. I see what looks like a single large vent hole in the bottom fire button.

My question would be, is there plenty of room within the mod for gas to escape around the battery to the vent hole in the bottom should a battery happen to vent?

Batteries vent from the top, so that is where any gas will first begin to accumulate. Batteries have been known to swell in girth when they vent or go into thermal runaway, so that is why I ask if there is plenty of room around the battery for gas to escape to the fire button.


If YOU are satisfied that your mech has plenty of room for gas to vent, then you don't need to drill additional holes. However, if the space is tight around the battery, you might have more piece of mind to have someone drill press two or three holes in the upper 1/3 of the mod. Spending a few bucks to have a machinist drill out a couple of strategically-placed holes may in the long run be cheaper than paying thousands of dollars in medical payments after suffering burns or losing teeth or repairing a hole in the roof of your mouth. But people often call me an alarmist and fear mongerer.


I preach mod and battery safety because I had a battery explode in my first mech. I only had a 3.0 ohm cartotank on top. It was user error, but being a noob I had no idea that my fire button was going to get stuck in the "on" position when I put it in a pants pocket, and that that could cause my battery to explode. We generally don't plan on making critical mistakes before they happen, do we?

BTW, does the Gus mod have a locking fire button? ;)

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Mech Mods with top venting holes?
 
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Baditude

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I honestly don't know much about the Gus mods, but viewing the below pic it looks like it could be a direct battery or faux hybrid mod (?). I don't see an insulated 510 center pin in the top. If a direct battery mod, do you know what juice attachments that you can or can not use with this type of mod? You can only use a juice attachment that has an extended center pin or you'll hard short the battery.

 
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Zutankhamun

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I only saw it on the website from the back end but it shows small pic of the button and small pic of the top cap which has the fused brass pole so It cant be hybrid. Can it??? @Baditude
 
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Baditude

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You got me worried there though. I don't want one o' them scary ole hybrids:eek:!!!
Someone who owns or uses a Gus should join the conversation. It's sometimes difficult to tell just from a photo.

You also didn't say if it has a locking fire button. That played an important part in my own battery mishap.
 
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Zutankhamun

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Your right and I'm too much of a noob (heaven forbid). I think that picture is clear enough though don't you. Big piece of delrin and a pole and spring. Makes contact with the 510 and then my atty. I'm good to go? I have sent yet another message to Kostas from Gus. So he can let me know. I think so though. I am new to this but I would have thought that spring=no hybrid?
 
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