So I just tore down an iSub head to see if it could be rebuilt, and it can. It's not really that hard at all.
I don't have a camera atm so I will just have to explain the best I can. For anybody that has rebuilt any kanger heads, it's similar to rebuilding the iSub heads.
You will need a 3mm rod or screwdriver, a pair of tweezers, and of course kanthal/nickel and cotton.
You want to pull all of the cotton out of the coil first through the juice holes. Once all the cotton is out, put your 3mm screwdriver through the juice holes and through the coil. Slide one side of a pair of tweezers or something similar through the air at the bottom so you have leverage on both parts of the head. Then just give it a twist to break the press fit and pull it apart.
After that it's just like rebuilding any other coil head. You'll have the bottom part of the head, and the top with the coil held in place by an insulator.
There is a trick though. After you've built your coil (I recommend a 3mm coil using the same tool you use to take apart the head) and place it, you need to cut the leads VERY short. Once you have the insulator in place pinning one lead in between the insulator and the head itself, cut it so you can't see it. It needs to be THAT short. You also want to cut the inside lead short as well so that it's not sticking out when you press the two halves back together. If you don't cut those leads short, the head will short when you test it, which is also easy to do with any ohm reader since the head itself has the 510 on it.
Once you've got the whole thing back together, feed your cotton through, cut it flush with the head and tuck it inside so it's not sticking out.
That's it. Actually really easy to do.
I don't have a camera atm so I will just have to explain the best I can. For anybody that has rebuilt any kanger heads, it's similar to rebuilding the iSub heads.
You will need a 3mm rod or screwdriver, a pair of tweezers, and of course kanthal/nickel and cotton.
You want to pull all of the cotton out of the coil first through the juice holes. Once all the cotton is out, put your 3mm screwdriver through the juice holes and through the coil. Slide one side of a pair of tweezers or something similar through the air at the bottom so you have leverage on both parts of the head. Then just give it a twist to break the press fit and pull it apart.
After that it's just like rebuilding any other coil head. You'll have the bottom part of the head, and the top with the coil held in place by an insulator.
There is a trick though. After you've built your coil (I recommend a 3mm coil using the same tool you use to take apart the head) and place it, you need to cut the leads VERY short. Once you have the insulator in place pinning one lead in between the insulator and the head itself, cut it so you can't see it. It needs to be THAT short. You also want to cut the inside lead short as well so that it's not sticking out when you press the two halves back together. If you don't cut those leads short, the head will short when you test it, which is also easy to do with any ohm reader since the head itself has the 510 on it.
Once you've got the whole thing back together, feed your cotton through, cut it flush with the head and tuck it inside so it's not sticking out.
That's it. Actually really easy to do.
