Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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Someone mentioned they have been using a PEEK insulator and have not had any problems with the insulator since. Once I try it, I will send a few to everyone. I will also provide a fix for the negative contact issue and send it together. That should fix the two issues.
In the meantime, I have question about atty AFC. For this new atty I'm making, how large of a hole do you want the air hole to be at max opening? Assuming one hole per coil (and there is two). Just let me know the hole size. It can always be made smaller but I do need to know how large to make it because there are some that like it very airy. Thanks
Holes or slots?
Here's one that's got a slot over holes, lol.
Each of these holes is 2.5mm, and there's people running it with six open holes then...
I don't think you could put one gigantic hole, or juice would just pour out. But at least this gives an IDEA of airflow people might want. There's some airier than this, too...but not a LOT.
Here's one that's got a slot over holes, lol.
Each of these holes is 2.5mm, and there's people running it with six open holes then...
I don't think you could put one gigantic hole, or juice would just pour out. But at least this gives an IDEA of airflow people might want. There's some airier than this, too...but not a LOT.
Holes or slots?
Here's one that's got a slot over holes, lol.
Each of these holes is 2.5mm, and there's people running it with six open holes then...
I don't think you could put one gigantic hole, or juice would just pour out. But at least this gives an IDEA of airflow people might want. There's some airier than this, too...but not a LOT.
Yep...great example!
Was that in a PM?
It's not in this thread.
Someone used something they are unsure of (and I think it's just rubber from the old Kanger coil units, before they switched to silicone).
That's what's on mine now. But single coil and only 2 holes open.
But I've run with 1.5 holes too.
I like the slot because I can use partial hole easier.
Got into my stash of ancient ego style tanks and robbed a few grommets not sure what there made from but they are very durable and working perfectly ..... Cranking down on the atty now and I seem to be getting a better connection in that it hits harder.....?! Psychosomatic.... Or just Psycho.
**Super-Tucker ignore this you probably already knew that these would fit but kept it a secret......jk lol
**Super-Tucker ignore this you probably already knew that these would fit but kept it a secret......jk lol
Hey Juno I just saw your comment on previous page is it working out for you to? The one I used was a tight fit around the 510 pin but went into the 510 easily the lip is a little higher which makes the atty sit high..... I couldn't get the one on the right in... after a 10 minute battle, so I hacked up another tank. I don't even remember what these tanks are called.... I do remember rebuilding them though...with my 36 Guage wire..... Lmao.
yeh, mine was a tight fit around the pin too, but a li'l ejuice lube and it went thru. so far, so good.
I just purchased, 1 silver and 1 black TSUNAMI 24/window
b/f'er for this mod especially .... Because my 22mm atties leave some room... Like 2mm.... so I'm thinking the 24mm will be perfect! I just hope it isn't a leaker from that huge bottom afc!!
b/f'er for this mod especially .... Because my 22mm atties leave some room... Like 2mm.... so I'm thinking the 24mm will be perfect! I just hope it isn't a leaker from that huge bottom afc!!
The one on the left looks like a Kanger or copy. Protank, T3, Evod, etc.
The material was always called rubber, then the switched to a clear silicone because it was more heat resistant.
The one on the right looks to be well used and discolored from heat.
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I think one one on right the one that worked well is from an evod..... I showed where it came from in both pics.... Anyway it was used and cleaned then put away I threw out anything that was used and unclean... From the look of it you'd think it would be brittle.... It isn't... Very pliable.... Anyway I have new ones still in the plastic packaging.....i wasn't even thinking it would work and when it did I just stopped looking and went with it! If you're going to have a fixed 510 This is what should have been used!! I'm thinking about drilling a bigger hole in a Reo spring plate (mounting hole is too small) and using it as the neg contact.... I'm wondering what the voltage drop is compared to a brass screw.?? Has anyone come up with a solid neg contact that works well and is adjustable?
i think mine came out of an evod, now that you say the name. i couldn't remember the names of all those different clearos that hit the shelves back then, but i know i favored kanger stuff at that time.
You mean left. The longer one.
Your earlier post said you used the one on the left.
The voltage drop depends on the current.
V=IR
Higher current will have more drop.
A brass screw should have a notably lower resistance than a spring.
Someone earlier made a copper plate, but I don't think it was adjustable.
Yes ST DOG your are correct.... Left is right...... right is wrong
Just a thought... For the negative contact plate .... what would you 2 that are paying attention think about making a second exact plate, silver plated sandwiched between springs that rest in delrin holes (the springs would be non conductive right? ) like the existing negative plate. Soooo..... the top plate would be angled as a ramp to slide the battery in under the tension of the springs in the middle?? The springs wouldn't matter right, if they aren't conductive? And we'd still be able to use use the fuse with the second plate? I wish I was mechanically inclined.... to mill these parts.
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