Isn't the fuse in the mod 10amp?
30 seems overs in that instance
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
30 seems overs in that instance
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
Well, to each their own I guess.
But I'd rather a fuse blow after 20-30 seconds than the mod keep firing and rely on the battery being able to handle high current loads.
I'd have to look at the specs. I don't know that a 30A battery is significantly different from 20A in that regard.
Your are of course free to use what you like.
0.1V under load can often be the difference between a quality vape and an undesirable vape.
.00018 doesn't look significantly different than .00020 until a load is applied and it translates to 3.8V vs. 3.7V during use.
Isn't the fuse in the mod 10amp?
Because 10A covers the majority of users.Maybe I missed this but what was the reason for going with a 10A fuse VS a 15 or better yet a 20?
Maybe I missed this but what was the reason for going with a 10A fuse VS a 15 or better yet a 20?
This^^^what he said, kinda...
In previous testing a while back in the Reo threads, it was found that anything over a 10amp fuse wouldn't blow quick enough. It exposed the battery to the danger of getting to the point of venting before the fuse blew...
In previous testing a while back in the Reo threads, it was found that anything over a 10amp fuse wouldn't blow quick enough. It exposed the battery to the danger of getting to the point of venting before the fuse blew...
That's why I commonly used a 15 amp fuse in my grands when I had my fuse mods installed.
That brought me to the revelation that I had nearly no protection already and was likely to lose a battery before the protection did it's job.
Were you looking for protection against short or constant firing?
A short is going to spike the current over that 600% (depending on the internal resistance of the battery and the location of the short) and blow the fuse "instantly."
Constant firing on a 0.2 Ohm coil is ~20A and in the continuous range of common batteries used. At 133% of the 15A fuse rating, it would take 1-2 minutes for it to blow.
Now if you only had a 10A rated battery, is see some concern, but you probably shouldn't be running a 20A load on a 10A battery, even pulsed. Still, I doubt 200% rated load for 2 minutes would cause it to vent.
SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?Got a link to those threads?
No, better performance.
1 to 2 minutes didn't happen. The voltage sags too much and the 15 amp automotive fuse simply doesn't blow.
With a dead short on a new vtc4, it takes a good 3 to 5 seconds or more for the 15 amp fuse to blow... if it does at all.
The spring was such a poor performer that nearly anything would be an improvement.How would a fuse improve performance?
A fuse's only role is some sort of protection.
I can see that. So with the voltage sag the current dropped to low.
That's surprising. You'd think it'd spick the current high enough and long enough to blow the fuse.
Wish I still had access to the equipment I had at my old job.
But it appears automotive fuses are a good fit.
Depending on atomizer and mood between 7.5 and 30ish usually.I've been waiting on the magnets. I should get them shortly.
I wonder what is the typical wattage that bottom feeder folks vape at?