Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

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WillyB

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I went to my local Hobby Lobby and got some screws that are the right size and thread count. That was after I went to Radio Shack and picked up some 2-56 but were course instead of fine cut. It's always nice to have extra ones around as I've lost a couple on the floor because they are so dang small.
And SAE instead of metric.

So what where the exact ones you got?
 

dsy5

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Yeah, don't use those or you will make he threads worse - the size is M2 x .4mm. And if you can get them longer - the better. They will grab more of the threading. I have a M2 x .4mm tap, if you can find one you may be able to fix 'em up a bit. If not re-tap to M2.5 x .45 - slightly larger screw but you can always grind down the head some.
 

CountSmackula

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I think sticking with taps/screws in .5 increments would improve chances of being able to find replacement screws.

There is also a M2.2 x .45 tap which may be a better size, if the hole is not too buggered up. Requires a 1.75 mm bit. Screws may be tougher to find, though, IDK.
 

bluegrasslover

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So I have been messing with the Griffin for about a week and I have been having the usual hot spot at the top coil issue. The one that I recieved has the negative screw that is stripped and I haven't seen anyone post which ones to get to replace it. I found some of the size I think, but I'm not sure if they will work. Does anyone know if these are the right ones, they seem like they might be too long:

M2-0.4x4 DIN912 A-2 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw | Fastenal

If not does anyone know where to get them? I have been trying to double wrap the coil around the neg. screw and just pushing it in the neg hole, it has worked so far, but I don't know if this might be the cause of some of the trouble I am having or not. I will just keep on trying til I get this right.


I got tired of the screws all together. I'm running the kanthal down into the screw hole then sticking a piece of round toothpick into the hole to hold the wire in place. MUCH less aggravating than messing with that *&#$ screw and keeping up with the hex wrench. Also, for the fill hole I'm using a short piece of SS wick. Seems to let the tank breath without leaking.
 

gormly

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Just so you all know I am "working" (lol) with these people to get these screw and hole issues addressed.

If anyone can post the links to the parts that you feel work better post them here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-thread-griffin-hydra-phoneix-tiamat-etc.html

and I will buy them in bulk and give them away free with orders if possible. if I can't it will be bare minimum charge.
I am also getting factory replacements coming.
 

dennis_j

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this thread is for the griffin only ,when i got mine the neg screw was striped on the top end only, went to hardware store with scerw in hand, gal found nut that fit, which was 2m, I think, than got a screw about twice the length,which cought the good threads in the bottom of the hole,got every thing set up ,but not happy with it to airee , air hole to big ,filled hole with JBWELD, than drilled smaller hole ,better now.next did't like ss mesh wick did'nt wick well ,tryed scilica wick [ big pain] wicked a little bettter,long story short, get the phoenix from eric best unit iv'e use yet , good flavor ,clouds of vapor,easy recoil, but every body to their own unit ,but for me the phoenix clone is the best choice, at 9.00$ as20+$ for the griffin this only my IMO ....
 

Big Screen D

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Spent the past couple of hours re-wicking and coiling my fleet of Griffins to absolute perfection. My build is tricky as hell to get right, but once done, I have never had a better vape.

45MM of 500 mesh rolled tight to 1/16" diameter. 5/6 wrap of 32ga kanthal spaced closely together using the Peter K drill bit method. Coil is terminated between the 1st and 2nd positive pole nuts with the coil concentrated at the bottom of the wick with care taken to avoid allowing the wick to contact metal as it passes trough the wick hole. Naked wick above the coil to even with the end of the post leaves about a cm of wick juice reservoir above the coil.

Folks, there is a trial and error learning curve with these. Research and patience is rewarded with an outstanding vape once reserved to those willing to stalk the classifieds and overseas suppliers at a fraction of the cost.
 

Mstanton

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to those having leaking issues if you are using the clear tank you need the clear tank orings, according o the manufacturer. the metal ones are not going to fit properly.

Hi, so all the other rings that come with the set are ok to use with the clear tank setup, we just need the #12 rings for the tank? Thanks, I'm new to RBAs and just wanted to make sure I grab the right size from the hardware store.
 

gormly

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Ok I have a new Stainless Griffin today.

Being aware of the screw issues some have had it's the first thing I looked at. I wanted to try a different manufacturer to see if I could get some better quality. Over all it IS better but the screws seem to be the same. I cranked a few down hard and then did it a few more times, one screw seems to be a bit stripped, I grabbed a bunch of screws from the hardware store earlier and had them in little baggies with markings but guess what.. I am a dips*** because they weren't closed all the way and they are all mixed up, I found one that will work, now have to go back and find out which one. :(

Ok, so on to the new griffin in stainless. I have listed it at the same price as the other Griffin and lowered the price of the Chromed on by a few dollars, I don't feel it is right to charge more for something with potential screw issues.

So.. the top is definitely stainless but I am not sure how to test all the rest of the parts, everything is different except for the screws. The tank is MUCH thicker, the nuts seem to be better quality, the top and orings seem more solid, all around it just seems a bit "better" The parts to the two of them except for the nuts and screws are not interchangeable. The base is larger to accommodate the larger tank and the top plate is designed a bit differently. The air hole is 1mm not the larger 1.5
I requested the 1.5 but did not get it. I will ask for tops to replace them.. no ETA yet.

This come with ONLY some spare coil, it is not in a tin, it does not have the allen key. It is pre-meshed with coil and the mesh is oxidized, my tests seemed better than what I can do with wicks but I am sure it is substandard to what YOU can do with it.


Things to know:
1. 1.0mm Airhole and holds the same amount of liquid despite the larger tank (because it's thicker)..
2. Much thicker tank than the Chromed Griffin
3. Much bigger top than the Chromed Griffin
4. I have to be honest with you, I am not certain if this entire unit is stainless, the top sure is, but the rest I am unsure of.
5. This is China Quality, you will be better served to find screws at your local hardware store as these will wear out fairly quickly as experienced by many users with the other griffin.
6. This is do it yourself, unless the thing is falling apart, you should expect to have to fix it yourself (but I will be sourcing OEM parts).
7. I am trying to source local parts for screws that work properly, if you find some let me know I will offer them for others..
8. I AM NOT AN EXPERT. I apologize but I just not all that into rebuildables so asking me how to make it work is not a good idea..
9. I will post all parts as I get them, as of 11/26/2012 I do not yet have any replacement parts for this Griffin and the parts (asie from screws) are not interchangable.DiscountVapers Order
10. It does NOT come with the allen key or any extra parts aside from some extra wire.







Perhaps if someone in the know buys this they can tell me if it's stainless all around?

I do not have parts for it yet, no extra tanks, no metal tanks, nothing yet,. will post when I do.

************************

and although it's not griffin related, I also have a new dripping atomizer today and another coming tomorrow (scheduled)
The one I have today is the "Dream - BT801" I am pretty sure this is already out in the wild at other vendors.



 
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CountSmackula

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Your new Griffin SS looks an awful lot like an atty that was called the 'Chobra' (because of its similarity to the Cobra). There was a co-op run on these a while back.

Some people, like me, who really love 'em, there are others who just gave 'em a "meh" rating. I'm not sure how much SS was in the co-op units, but if these are ALL SS, then I think you've got a winner on your hands. They look pretty killer on a ProVari and my other flat top 18650 mods.

If it is 100% SS (less the tank, of course), looks like I'll need to be buying a few of these from you too. :thumbs:

Ok I have a new Stainless Griffin today.
...
Ok, so on to the new griffin in stainless. I have listed it at the same price as the other Griffin and lowered the price of the Chromed on by a few dollars, I don't feel it is right to charge more for something with potential screw issues.

So.. the top is definitely stainless but I am not sure how to test all the rest of the parts, everything is different except for the screws. The tank is MUCH thicker, the nuts seem to be better quality, the top and orings seem more solid, all around it just seems a bit "better" The parts to the two of them except for the nuts and screws are not interchangeable. The base is larger to accommodate the larger tank and the top plate is designed a bit differently. The air hole is 1mm not the larger 1.5
I requested the 1.5 but did not get it. I will ask for tops to replace them.. no ETA yet.
...





Perhaps if someone in the know buys this they can tell me if it's stainless all around?
...
 
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I do know that there were a couple of incarnations of the Chobra tank and one was a modded Vivi tank. The other one was pretty good, but the Vivi version had the threaded center conductor soldered to a wire that was soldered on the other end to the battery positive conductor. You found this out very fast if you tried to take it apart because you would likely pull it apart at the solder joint. My one question about the stainless Griffin is if the center post is like it is on the chromed version? In other words is it removable or is it fixed. If it's removable I definitely want one.
 

Dieseler

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I do know that there were a couple of incarnations of the Chobra tank and one was a modded Vivi tank. The other one was pretty good, but the Vivi version had the threaded center conductor soldered to a wire that was soldered on the other end to the battery positive conductor. You found this out very fast if you tried to take it apart because you would likely pull it apart at the solder joint. My one question about the stainless Griffin is if the center post is like it is on the chromed version? In other words is it removable or is it fixed. If it's removable I definitely want one.
I can almost bet they did not retool the newer griffin with a airhole in the 510 connector and solder in a wire up the innner tube like the Vivi setup which i also had. I do own the older griffin as well that has the airhole in cap and solid threaded pole for the connection to positive and imagine the updated one is same as there is an airhole in the cap .
Im just waiting to hear if the inner tube,positive pole and nuts and top and bottom base are solid stainless and not chromed over.
In other words waiting to here if the whole thing is solid stainless like the more expensive DID out of Greece which i also use daily.
 
I've got the chromed Griffin and use it every day, I think it vapes great and have not had any issues with it. I have the chrome tube and the clear one, but I hardly ever use the clear one, I like the metal better. I will probably get the new one regardless of it being all stainless or not. I think it will look great on my Vamo mod.
 
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