IPV Mini V2 ???

[VapingTurtle]

I won't tag anyone on this, but simply say - It sounds like a few have purchased the Mini2 when the mini was the mod they were in need of - both in power and functionality.
...
Hers is a good question:
Is the Displayed Voltage the output voltage or the Voltage requested for the chip to output the wattage it is set for?

You are definitely correct that the Mini 1 would be more appropriate for my low wattage use than the Mini 2. I'm sorry that I didn't get the 30w. Anyone wanna swap?

The displayed voltage is the requested voltage, not the actual output. Proof: at a low wattage setting, the display may read 3.6v, but, as we know, with a battery at a higher charge the output is that batt's charge (minus the voltage drop).

 

[andrew1030]

Well no .... sherlock. Im well aware. And if you actually understood batteries, these dont stay at 4.2v under load, especially just a single 18650.

And if you had some reading comprehension, you would have seen that it WORKS PERFECTLY FINE ON THE DUAL PARALLEL 18650 BOX MOD , which btw drops to around 3.9v under the stock .5ohm load from the atlantis coil.

The pos mini v2 burned the coils even with a low battery resting at 3.3v, care to elaborate on that one hoss?

Was just trying to help but thanks for the 'hospitality' mate. Nvm that, i know the battery sags, but the regulated output doesnt. I just dont know if it outputs after sag, which means 3.6 - 4.2 is possible during sag on a fully charged, or it takes the before sag value which means only 4.2+ is available on a fully charged. Which would dramatically change things on a sub ohm build.

Again idk, idk how the ipv2mini does things exactly, i'm just providing some insight on the issue you were facing, other than just suggesting you got a faulty unit. Bt it seems you dont really need it.

 

[zeus01]

surprisingly,i keep tracked of my actual battery time..

I finished chaging it something like 1am thurs
was able to use it on all my brakes at work,
use it at home,sleep,and was able to have it working up until my 1st break..
impressive...

 

[K_Tech]

You are definitely correct that the Mini 1 would be more appropriate for my low wattage use than the Mini 2. I'm sorry that I didn't get the 30w. Anyone wanna swap?

The displayed voltage is the requested voltage, not the actual output. Proof: at a low wattage setting, the display may read 3.6v, but, as we know, with a battery at a higher charge the output is that batt's charge (minus the voltage drop).

I may be wrong, but I was under the impression that when desired voltage output was below battery voltage state that it fires in PWM mode to reduce voltage output, much like the Mini.

 

[ThunderDan]

It is DC-DC only.

 

[asvaldr]

Yup the mini 2 can't regulate down under the battery actual output. As a proof, on a fresh battery just make a low ohm coil and set the watt so that the volt is 2 volt or so and you wil notice no difference when you crank it up to 3 volt.

But one thing that makes me think is does it really can't regulate down under the battery load or the lowest it can regulate to is 3.6v like the manual said?

 

[folkphys]

I'd guess that its more likely the manual states 3.6v because under lowOhm/highWatt conditions, that's where a near fully charged battery will sag down to when you load it. And also it's the "nominal" voltage of your standard (4.2v max charged) 18650 batteries.....

 

[Libbydude]

I feel like this device is operating within listed specs. Build at .4 and there is a distinct difference between 3.6 and 4v on a fresh battery.

 

[Libbydude]

It is DC-DC only.

almost all of the good ones are.

 

[VapingTurtle]

It is DC-DC only.

almost all of the good ones are.

All of them are.

A DC-DC converter can be buck, boost, or buck-boost. But they are all taking a DC battery current and produce a DC output. It is a misnomer when used to contrast DC-DC to PWM, which is a technique and description of an output signal. We don't use inverters in e-cigs, which convert DC to AC.

What ThunderDan should be saying is "it is boost-only", which all of the good ones aren't, Libbydude.

 

[ThunderDan]

All of them are.

A DC-DC converter can be buck, boost, or buck-boost. But they are all taking a DC battery current and produce a DC output. It is a misnomer when used to contrast DC-DC to PWM, which is a technique and description of an output signal. We don't use inverters in e-cigs, which convert DC to AC.

What ThunderDan should be saying is "it is boost-only", which all of the good ones aren't, Libbydude.

Always the pedant, VapingTurtle. I was replying to the guy that thought it had a PWM mode like the ipv mini, which it does not, therefore only DC-DC mode, pioneer4you terminology here.

Not to be pedantic myself but a "boost only" board could still have a PWM signal output.

 

[VapingTurtle]

Always the pedant, VapingTurtle. ...

Polemical and disputatious, too.

 

[Libbydude]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[zeus01]

so overdripping problems.

due to a faulty positive pin on my trident,
seem like juice made it to the connector of the ipv
any chance I can clean it out?

 

[LetsGetDigital]

Finally pulled the trigger! My IPV Mini 2 will be in the mailbox soon, and hopefully around the same time my Cthulhu shows up As someone who has been out of the loop for over a year and building single coil steel mesh setups on an Aga-T2 w/ a mech mod, I'd love to get some suggestions on dual coil builds if y'all have a moment. I've got nice cotton, 26/28g kanthal, and obviously patience based on my previous choice in RTA lol Been doing a ton of research, but there's not a whole lot of info on the Cthulhus at this point in time. What would be your first build?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ThunderDan]

Finally pulled the trigger! My IPV Mini 2 will be in the mailbox soon, and hopefully around the same time my Cthulhu shows up As someone who has been out of the loop for over a year and building single coil steel mesh setups on an Aga-T2 w/ a mech mod, I'd love to get some suggestions on dual coil builds if y'all have a moment. I've got nice cotton, 26/28g kanthal, and obviously patience based on my previous choice in RTA lol Been doing a ton of research, but there's not a whole lot of info on the Cthulhus at this point in time. What would be your first build?

Thanks in advance!

It's basically a top fill Goblin, so check out Goblin builds. With the slightly larger deck of the Cthulhu you can get away with a bit larger coils though. Given your wire, I would start with a 26g 2.5mm, probably 8 wraps or so contact coil, I have my goblin built like that right now, and its around .4ohm IIRC.

You could also use that 28g and do quad coils if you wanted, I tried it once on the goblin and it was fun, but I went back to dual coils cuz lazy.

 

[K_Tech]

so overdripping problems.

due to a faulty positive pin on my trident,
seem like juice made it to the connector of the ipv
any chance I can clean it out?

Sort of?

With electronics, you can always do a flush with distilled water or a solvent, but ONLY if you can completely remove power. As the batteries of the IPV are soldered in place, it's not an easy thing to pull the batteries.

There are also some spray cleaners made for electronics, but some of them are NOT friendly to plastics.

It's all a matter of how comfortable you feel with taking yours apart and cleaning it.

The biggest problem is that PG/VG really won't dry out as completely as water would. If you get some PG/VG in your device, as they are both hygroscopic (hold water) they will always be a little damp, and that's a killer for circuits.

 

[VapingTurtle]

As the batteries of the IPV are soldered in place, it's not an easy thing to pull the batteries.

IPV MINI v2 thread, so I'd assume removable battery.

 

[BigEgo]

I may be wrong, but I was under the impression that when desired voltage output was below battery voltage state that it fires in PWM mode to reduce voltage output, much like the Mini.

Pretty sure you are right. It has no buck circuitry like the DNA or SX350's but it does the poor man's step-down with PWM. No, it doesn't let you "select" PWM or DC-DC like the Mini 30w does, but that's because it is a useless feature. No need to "select" PWM. It does it automatically when required based on voltage/build.

 

[VapingTurtle]

Pretty sure you are right. It has no buck circuitry like the DNA or SX350's but it does the poor man's step-down with PWM. No, it doesn't let you "select" PWM or DC-DC like the Mini 30w does, but that's because it is a useless feature. No need to "select" PWM. It does it automatically when required based on voltage/build.

I don't think you have any understanding whatsoever what PWM means.