That's correct. On a freshly charged battery, it will put 4.2 volts to your coil until battery voltage drops, regardless of what the display says (The display shows calculated voltage for the resistance/wattage setting).
IPV Mini V2 ???
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But the battery's voltage will drop almost immediately (after 2 or 3 vapes I'll bet it's down closer to 4.1) and the voltage drop across the whole circuit (mod and coil) will bring it down much further pretty quickly.
Bottom line, set it to your taste's satisfaction rather than a number. Just use a number as a starting point.
That's true. Or build for the limitations of the mod itself. It's just a rude awakening when someone thinks they're going to be able to vape their 0.2 ohm build at 25 watts, lol.
Battery Voltage Sag. Batteries never put out as much voltage as they have "stored". All batteries 'sag' below standing voltage every single time you press the fire button. That's just physics. Better batteries sag less (because they tend to have less internal resistance and/or more robust chemistries) and that's why a Sony VTC4 will seem to 'hit harder' than a crappy purple Efest in your mechanical mod. And so whatever voltage your battery sags down to, is all the voltage available to the chip when it is powering itself and your atomizer. And if that chip doesn't "buck" voltage -- as is the case with our IPVmin2's -- then that is what you'll get....minus a little bit for the internal circuitry.
I just tested this with an in-line voltmeter:
My IPVmini2 is set to output 3.8v (that's a 1.3ohm atty, 11.2w)......and with a fully charged VTC4 (which exhibits very little sag in general) the device is actually putting out 3.91v. That's the sag. If you're atomizer has a significantly lower resistance and/or you are using a weaker battery (charge state or CDR), then your output would in fact be lower, and likely much closer to your desired value of 3.8v.
I just tested this with an in-line voltmeter:
My IPVmini2 is set to output 3.8v (that's a 1.3ohm atty, 11.2w)......and with a fully charged VTC4 (which exhibits very little sag in general) the device is actually putting out 3.91v. That's the sag. If you're atomizer has a significantly lower resistance and/or you are using a weaker battery (charge state or CDR), then your output would in fact be lower, and likely much closer to your desired value of 3.8v.
That is great to know. Thanks for the help everyone. I am just going to keep my build how it is, seems to work just fine.
This makes a lot of sense to me now. That explains why I notice a difference on a fully charged battery at 24 watts giving out 4.2 and at 20 watts giving out 3.8. Thanks for the explanation.
Clean everything well, check coil contact areas.
*** Just Received my Vaporator Skin for the Mini2 - kind of a Terminator T3 theme***
Have to finish scraping off what is left of the original paint, then I will clean it and apply the skin.
Not going to worry with the Exposed edges - Machines/Metal rust and oxidizes so it will work with the theme.(no actual rust - lol)
Well, last night I tore down both atties I been using and cleaned them up. Replaced the screws in my st mini rba section and rebuilt everything. I also cleaned the 510 threads on toppers and the mini.
Well crap!
The new shin looked decent, but the fit is a little off. A bit small/short all around.
Had to fight to center it decent, then the Glue is so sticky that lifting to remove air bubbles is almost impossible.
Got it close and called it quits. New in the back of my mind I should have done a soapy install, but hate waiting a day or two for full adhesion.
Well, it does look better than the horribly peeling paint job.
Cost $6.95
The new shin looked decent, but the fit is a little off. A bit small/short all around.
Had to fight to center it decent, then the Glue is so sticky that lifting to remove air bubbles is almost impossible.
Got it close and called it quits. New in the back of my mind I should have done a soapy install, but hate waiting a day or two for full adhesion.
Well, it does look better than the horribly peeling paint job.
Cost $6.95
so for the past few months i still love my mini2
and without the rocket science,
how do i build on this?
i mean,i like my vape a bit warm
but not compromised on battery life...
been doing coils that reads between 0.1-0.2 ohms.
but battery life sucks like really sucks.
anyy suggestions?
btw am I the only who cheats this thing by loosing the postive screw a bit so that resistance bumps up
sorry not a fan of sub ohm,.but its hard to do a dual sleeper coil without going sub ohm,
and without the rocket science,
how do i build on this?
i mean,i like my vape a bit warm
but not compromised on battery life...
been doing coils that reads between 0.1-0.2 ohms.
but battery life sucks like really sucks.
anyy suggestions?
btw am I the only who cheats this thing by loosing the postive screw a bit so that resistance bumps up
sorry not a fan of sub ohm,.but its hard to do a dual sleeper coil without going sub ohm,
1.-2. then loosening the screw?
You do know that is simply silly right.
Jut build a .3ohm setup and leave the screws properly tightened before you bump something and end up with a short.
You are not fooling the Mod, you ARE likely creating a hot spot by increacing the resistance at the loose connection.
No magical cure for loading a battery to the max and expecting longer life.
Suggest IPV-V4S for your next mod. Dual 18650's - Last longer
I run .5 Dual coils all the time - batteries go 4-5 hours heavier vaping.
You do know that is simply silly right.
Jut build a .3ohm setup and leave the screws properly tightened before you bump something and end up with a short.
You are not fooling the Mod, you ARE likely creating a hot spot by increacing the resistance at the loose connection.
No magical cure for loading a battery to the max and expecting longer life.
Suggest IPV-V4S for your next mod. Dual 18650's - Last longer
I run .5 Dual coils all the time - batteries go 4-5 hours heavier vaping.
it's not that loose I mean I doesn't move around actually.
well,I can't I mean ,the wire is .60,not sure in awg,13wraps on each side and it fills up the whole deck already I can't literally add more.
no thinner wires available....
hahahahaha drooling over that 4s...
but not right now I guess
but how can I achieve a warm vape,without sub ohming I guess
I tried single coils no luck...
except change wires ofcourse.hehehehehe
I have like a spool of .60 here...
Sent from my AMOI N820 using Tapatalk
well,I can't I mean ,the wire is .60,not sure in awg,13wraps on each side and it fills up the whole deck already I can't literally add more.
no thinner wires available....
hahahahaha drooling over that 4s...
but not right now I guess
but how can I achieve a warm vape,without sub ohming I guess
I tried single coils no luck...
except change wires ofcourse.hehehehehe
I have like a spool of .60 here...
Sent from my AMOI N820 using Tapatalk
Looked and looked and cannot translate what your .60 wire is.
Is this Kanthal, Nichrome, Ni200 or what? Is there any other markings on the packaging? British std or otherwise?
.60 sounds Huge but may be wrong.
22ga. Kanthal is .64 and that is a Very Thick, slow cooling wire.
How can you not find a much more common 28Ga? .32 wire
A 28ga build at .48(dual coils) roughly 7 wraps @ 2mm will deliver a good warm vape. I get that at 30 watts.
I really believe you are dumping all of your battery energy just trying to heat the overly thick wire.
Thinner heats Faster, cools Faster and takes less energy at the same resistance as thicker wire.
If anyone is interested, the IPV Mini V2 is selling for $19.99 here: IPV V2 Mini
I was tempted for a few minutes, but even at that price it wouldn't get used in my lineup unfortunately. I'll probably just blow the $19.99 on another Starre Pro.
I was tempted for a few minutes, but even at that price it wouldn't get used in my lineup unfortunately. I'll probably just blow the $19.99 on another Starre Pro.
I thought I would post this in case it helps someone out. I recently had to send my IPV Mini V2 in for warranty service because of a Power/Fire button issue. The company that handles Pioneer4You warranty claims now (United States and Canada) is KMG Imports and they provide excellent, quick service. The IPV Mini V2 comes with a six month warranty and I was right at the cut-off and they replaced my unit with no questions and had it back to me within a week from the west coast. You just have to fill out a warranty form, include a copy of original receipt, original warranty card and pay shipping to and from but no biggie. Excellent customer service! Just thought I'd share if any of you have a warranty issue.
KMG Wholesales iPV Warranty Page by KMG Wholesales - KMG
KMG Wholesales iPV Warranty Page by KMG Wholesales - KMG
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Just noticed something neat on my ipv mini 2. If the display is off and you just click the button once the screen will light up and stay full lit for a couple seconds. It's a cool way to check your settings or battery life quickly.
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