istick 50 watt exploded
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Ive had the wrap on it since i bought it, and the silicone sleeve since the day they came out. The were to help protect the mod from damage (bumps, scratches, etc)...... apparently they didnt do much good. ;(
I emailed eLeaf USA, and I am waiting for a response.
I emailed eLeaf USA, and I am waiting for a response.
First of all, I'm really happy you are okay.
I usually use my PS4 to charge my mods. Anything over 500mAh concerns me for charging. I would rather have a slower charge, and have the battery last longer, than having it charge in 30 minutes and shorten the battery life. Looks like I won't be leaving my iStick charging overnight. Again, I'm really glad the OP and girlfriend are okay.
I usually use my PS4 to charge my mods. Anything over 500mAh concerns me for charging. I would rather have a slower charge, and have the battery last longer, than having it charge in 30 minutes and shorten the battery life. Looks like I won't be leaving my iStick charging overnight. Again, I'm really glad the OP and girlfriend are okay.
For returns under warranty the eLeaf site says you must contact Joyetech. service@joyetech.us . I know of people who have contacted iSmoka and got returns service@ismoka.com
iSmoka claims to be the manufacturer of the eLeaf "brand" and shows the iSticks as their products on their site. Joyetech does not show the eLeaf brand on their site under products. It seems that eLeaf USA is owned by Joyetech and they are distributors of iSmoka's eLeaf brand.
Of course Joyetech is a manufacturer and also does manufacturing for other companies. The relationship of Joyetech to iSmoka is still unclear to me. They could both be making the isticks. Joyetech's iSticks could be clones. Joyetech could own iSmoka, it is a larger manufacturer. For all I know they could both have the same parent company. I would like to know what the deal is though
iSmoka claims to be the manufacturer of the eLeaf "brand" and shows the iSticks as their products on their site. Joyetech does not show the eLeaf brand on their site under products. It seems that eLeaf USA is owned by Joyetech and they are distributors of iSmoka's eLeaf brand.
Of course Joyetech is a manufacturer and also does manufacturing for other companies. The relationship of Joyetech to iSmoka is still unclear to me. They could both be making the isticks. Joyetech's iSticks could be clones. Joyetech could own iSmoka, it is a larger manufacturer. For all I know they could both have the same parent company. I would like to know what the deal is though
It probably needs a charger with a smaller supply. Is it the battery that came with the isticks?
For returns under warranty the eLeaf site says you must contact Joyetech. service@joyetech.us . I know of people who have contacted iSmoka and got returns service@ismoka.com
iSmoka claims to be the manufacturer of the eLeaf "brand" and shows the iSticks as their products on their site. Joyetech does not show the eLeaf brand on their site under products. It seems that eLeaf USA is owned by Joyetech and they are distributors of iSmoka's eLeaf brand.
Joyetech is the parent company of iSmoka and eLeaf.
Free Trademark Search | Protect Business Name | Incorporate Your Business | Trademarkia
What this shows is that the iSmoka trademark was filed in the U.S. by Joyetech and now the status is listed as abandoned. It is listed as dead. The eLeaf trademark filed in the U.S. by JT is still current. The Shenzhen iSmoka plant in Guangdong, China is up and running as is the Shenzhen Joyetech plant in Guandong. I'm still not sure what is going on with the eLeaf since Joyetech doesn't list eleaf products as their manufactured products. iSmoka does. I still see nothing that states that JT is the parent company of IS. Eleaf is not a manufacturer, it is a brand name of iSmoka and trademarked in the U.S. under Joyetech. Maybe Shenzhen Co. owns both of them
Company Overview - Shenzhen Joyetech Co., Ltd.
Shenzhen iSmoka Electronics Co., Ltd. - BCC,Mini iKit
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Update on my iStick 50w. About a month ago, it continued to sizzle after I had vaped it and let go of the fire button. It hit the 10Sec cutoff and wouldn't fire again. It was in locked mode, I guess. I took it over to the USB charger, plugged it in, and it reset. It's worked fine since then.
A couple of days ago the same thing happened. It displayed the 10 second cutoff message and died. Even plugging it into the charger wouldn't bring it back. The fire button did not physically stick in the actuated position. I played with the buttons and discovered that I could hold the fire button and one of the up/down buttons and it would display the settings screen. It still would not fire. It also wouldn't respond to the various button press modes. I tried every combination of presses from 1 to 10 and no dice.
I left it sitting in the kitchen sink overnight with no atty, just in case it resurrected itself and decided to fire. This morning It still wouldn't fire, but I could still get the settings screen where it shows the voltage or wattage, the resistance of the atty, and the voltage/wattage setting.
After lunch, I took it by the vendor I bought it from and explained what happened. The salesperson fiddled with the buttons and finally got it to fire and count seconds as it dry fired with no atty. He put his sub ohm atty on it and blew a thick cloud several feet long! I was amazed that it started working, but I told him that it had locked up twice now in fire mode and I couldn't trust it anymore.
The warranty was about two weeks away from 90 days, so he went to the shelf and handed me a new one. I consider myself lucky. I know the owner and ordered from her when she operated an ecig business out of her basement. Maybe the new one isn't one of the 3 of ten thousand that might blow up.
A couple of days ago the same thing happened. It displayed the 10 second cutoff message and died. Even plugging it into the charger wouldn't bring it back. The fire button did not physically stick in the actuated position. I played with the buttons and discovered that I could hold the fire button and one of the up/down buttons and it would display the settings screen. It still would not fire. It also wouldn't respond to the various button press modes. I tried every combination of presses from 1 to 10 and no dice.
I left it sitting in the kitchen sink overnight with no atty, just in case it resurrected itself and decided to fire. This morning It still wouldn't fire, but I could still get the settings screen where it shows the voltage or wattage, the resistance of the atty, and the voltage/wattage setting.
After lunch, I took it by the vendor I bought it from and explained what happened. The salesperson fiddled with the buttons and finally got it to fire and count seconds as it dry fired with no atty. He put his sub ohm atty on it and blew a thick cloud several feet long! I was amazed that it started working, but I told him that it had locked up twice now in fire mode and I couldn't trust it anymore.
The warranty was about two weeks away from 90 days, so he went to the shelf and handed me a new one. I consider myself lucky. I know the owner and ordered from her when she operated an ecig business out of her basement. Maybe the new one isn't one of the 3 of ten thousand that might blow up.
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Glad you got a new one. Where do you get the 3 of 10,000 statistic?Update on my iStick 50w. About a month ago, it continued to sizzle after I had vaped it and let go of the fire button. It hit the 10Sec cutoff and wouldn't fire again. It was in locked mode, I guess. I took it over to the USB charger, plugged it in, and it reset. It's worked fine since then.
A couple of days ago the same thing happened. It displayed the 10 second cutoff message and died. Even plugging it into the charger wouldn't bring it back. The fire button did not physically stick in the actuated position. I played with the buttons and discovered that I could hold the fire button and one of the up/down buttons and it would display the settings screen. It still would not fire. It also wouldn't respond to the various button press modes. I tried every combination of presses from 1 to 10 and no dice.
I left it sitting in the kitchen sink overnight with no atty, just in case it resurrected itself and decided to fire. This morning It still wouldn't fire, but I could still get the settings screen where it shows the voltage or wattage, the resistance of the atty, and the voltage/wattage setting.
After lunch, I took it by the vendor I bought it from and explained what happened. The salesperson fiddled with the buttons and finally got it to fire and count seconds as it dry fired with no atty. He put his sub ohm atty on it and blew a thick cloud several feet long! I was amazed that it started working, but I told him that it had locked up twice now in fire mode and I couldn't trust it anymore.
The warranty was about two weeks away from 90 days, so he went to the shelf and handed me a new one. I consider my self lucky. I know the owner from when she operated an ecig business out of her basement. Maybe the new one isn't one of the 3 of ten thousand that might blow up.
This is not the only thread reporting faulty 50s on this forum and it's not the only forum reporting. I know of 2 different reports of 50w autofire in the last 2 days.
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Glad you got a new one. Where do you get the 3 of 10,000 statistic?
This is not the only thread reporting faulty 50s on this forum and it's not the only forum reporting. I know of 2 different reports of 50w autofire in the last 2 days.
That was a tongue in cheek quote based on Dreamone's post (below). I think the problem is much more rampant than it appears. I'm a career field engineer who serviced high tech electronic laser printing systems in computer rooms and commercial print shops before I retired. I know the LSI circuitry types and their failure modes and the coil/SCR circuit is analogous to many subsystems I maintained. This problem sounds more like unstable electronics than simply being flaky fire buttons. It's likely an SCR issue, but could also be in the LSI chip that controls the on/off voltage signal to the SCR.
My equipment had quartz heater rods to maintain fuser rollers at around 360 degrees. The triac or SCR would fail and the machine would go into meltdown and pop a resettable thermostat. I'd walk in with the part in my hand, change it and all would be well (until it failed again in a year or so).
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My istick 50W just caught fire on me! I was bringing it up to my mouth when i hear a loud POP! Smoke pouring out the charge port. Stank something fierce. Ive had it for 2 months, I'm an experienced vapor, never dropped, babied in a silicone case and never used a dripper on it. Always Vaped a .3ohm coil at 37.1 watts and never overcharged it or left it to charge overnight. Just opened the case and the chip below the charging port was toast. Exploded and melted the plastic inside. Could have been a lot worse if the batteries had overheated but i tested the batteries when i took it apart and they still have a good charge on them. Problem was the circuit board. I don't think i want to replace it with another one after this experience.
Also i wanted to add that it was acting funny before it popped on me. I would press the fire button and it would say low battery….then press it again and it had full charge. Sometimes it would shut off on me and i would have to insert a usb charger into the port to get it to turn on again. I should have known better and just stopped using it. Be safe out there!!!
Also i wanted to add that it was acting funny before it popped on me. I would press the fire button and it would say low battery….then press it again and it had full charge. Sometimes it would shut off on me and i would have to insert a usb charger into the port to get it to turn on again. I should have known better and just stopped using it. Be safe out there!!!
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Sorry that happened. I'm glad you didn't get burned (except for the purchase). It still has 30 days left on the warranty if you have the receipt and box code. I haven't worked on a 50w yet but there's a dead one coming in the mail. How about some pics?
Don't think i have posted enough to post pics yet. says the pic url is blocked.
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