- Status
If you dont know or this stuff is over your head buy paired Items a charger meant for your device.unfortunately someone telling you using a old phone charger was bad advice.
Possibly set up a charging station. A Pyrex bowl or casserole dish on a counter is a good way to avoid any problems from charging mishapps. Just place the mod in the dish to charge and if there is a problem the dish will contain the discharge.
I prefer to have removable batteries I can inspect as I charge and a quality charger VS a built in charger and batteries I can not see or inspect for damage from daily use and abuse.
Edit: sorry for your mishap Im glad no injuries or real damage occurred. Chalk it up as a learning experience Thanks for posting.
Possibly set up a charging station. A Pyrex bowl or casserole dish on a counter is a good way to avoid any problems from charging mishapps. Just place the mod in the dish to charge and if there is a problem the dish will contain the discharge.
I prefer to have removable batteries I can inspect as I charge and a quality charger VS a built in charger and batteries I can not see or inspect for damage from daily use and abuse.
Edit: sorry for your mishap Im glad no injuries or real damage occurred. Chalk it up as a learning experience Thanks for posting.
Last edited:
I'm not a CEE, I'm a stress engineer in the building trades. I still contend that a GFI will protect against shock & Fire. I don't care about what is wrong with Op's charger.
As an aside i didn't follow your ' formula', show direction??
GFI would deal with current in the stepped down device. 9Vdc I believe.
As an aside i didn't follow your ' formula', show direction??
GFI would deal with current in the stepped down device. 9Vdc I believe.
My istick30 that I bought didn't come with a charger. I'll post a pic of the plug I was using here in a bit. They did give me the eleaf wall plug when I took my melted one back in to them though.
Because the gfi in question is useless with only the charger connected to it.why not use use the correct charger and GFI
Tapatyped
Which is absolutely incorrect.
Ur advice was to use a useless gfi...
History doesn't solve equations...
I told you what the formula was... and it works regardless of direct, alternating, 1, 2 or 3 phase... even PWM
And as far as codes go... I highly suggest not charging in high moisture areas or near sinks, spigots, basins or hose bibs where a gfi would be mandatory.
Tapatyped
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay, well that went downhill quick 
I'm confused, but hey, that happens. I don't have an Istick30 so I had a look at it on the net and I see that the mod comes with a USB cable and a 1A wall adapter (wall wart). This makes me think the mod has a charging board in it that needs 5v and 1A or less of current. Neither the USB cable or the wall adapter are a 'charger'. Correct?
Kieferz wrote:
What I'm getting from this is the Istick was hot. Not the USB cable or the wall wart. The cable didn't come with the Istick, it was from an old phone, so for all I know it could have reverse polarity power output instead of the standard everyone uses today. I don't now if the wall wart was part of the phone system, so that could be an issue the same way. Neither of these two are however a charger.
This has nothing to do with using an incorrect charger, house wiring or GFI. The charger or the battery in the Istick created heat. It could have been from an off standard or defective USB cable, an off standard wall wart or a defective charger in the Istick. I'm thinking it was probably the cable and/or wall wart.
Seems pretty simple to me. So what am I missing?
I'm confused, but hey, that happens. I don't have an Istick30 so I had a look at it on the net and I see that the mod comes with a USB cable and a 1A wall adapter (wall wart). This makes me think the mod has a charging board in it that needs 5v and 1A or less of current. Neither the USB cable or the wall adapter are a 'charger'. Correct?
Kieferz wrote:
What I'm getting from this is the Istick was hot. Not the USB cable or the wall wart. The cable didn't come with the Istick, it was from an old phone, so for all I know it could have reverse polarity power output instead of the standard everyone uses today. I don't now if the wall wart was part of the phone system, so that could be an issue the same way. Neither of these two are however a charger.
This has nothing to do with using an incorrect charger, house wiring or GFI. The charger or the battery in the Istick created heat. It could have been from an off standard or defective USB cable, an off standard wall wart or a defective charger in the Istick. I'm thinking it was probably the cable and/or wall wart.
Seems pretty simple to me. So what am I missing?
Last edited:
Hey, don't feel bad. I really thought I was loosing it because you are certainly not a dunce! Once it starts, threads can really go funky sometimes
Well thank you, sir. You're pretty impressive, yourself.Hey, don't feel bad. I really thought I was loosing it because you are certainly not a dunce! Once it starts, threads can really go funky sometimes
Tapatyped
If the supplied Charge cable is nothing but a USB cable - You need to know the Recommended charge amperage.
If .8amps - DO NOT use a 2.1a adapter. It may overpower the unit.
The only thing a .5a adapter will do is charge slower. < battery will remain cooler>
A 1a adapter may be fine as long as the Battery is removed soon after reaching full charge.
Static batteries do not Draw power - they accept current supplied.
My understanding is that if a vendor follows USB specifications a device should never pull more than the max current that the USB device can handle regardless of the supplied current of the charger used. This write up Charging Batteries From a USB Port states the following:
"The question is asked: “Can I cause damage by plugging my device into a USB charger that delivers more current than 500mA and 900mA? The answer is no. The device only draws what it requires, and not more. An analogy is plugging in a lamp or a toaster into an AC wall plug. The lamp requires little current while to toaster goes to the maximum. More power from the USB charger will shorten the charge time."
"The question is asked: “Can I cause damage by plugging my device into a USB charger that delivers more current than 500mA and 900mA? The answer is no. The device only draws what it requires, and not more. An analogy is plugging in a lamp or a toaster into an AC wall plug. The lamp requires little current while to toaster goes to the maximum. More power from the USB charger will shorten the charge time."
That's putting the cart before the horse Don'tcha think?
I mean, good luck getting people to use the specs on the device where they're clearly printed. But a cord where they just have to know what it came with to know it's capabilities?
Good info...
But good luck.
If and should... exactly
And in the event of minor failure...
The mvp 2 for example, has been re ported to destroy a couple PCs.
The isticks... I'd be afraid to charge them next to my pc let alone from the usb.
Tapatyped
The istick I bought did not come with a USB or anything to plug into the wall. Just the device itself. I was told at the store I could use whatever wall plug and micro USB cable that I use to charge my phone. I realize now that probably isn't the case and when I took it back after it melted they gave me an eleaf wall plug to use with it so hopefully it is designed to work with their products.I don't want to have to take a mild electricians class just to be able to vape. No one should have to. Yes it's good to be smart but everyone has their area of expertise. Mine is not technical stuff- its medical coding. I am not into rebuilding or learning the ins and outs of an electronic vaping device. I was told the istick30 was pretty user friendly and I wanted something I could just plug into the wall to charge and not have to think too hard about the technical side of it which I thought was what I was getting. If it gets too complicated I'll just go back to my trusty itastevv.
- Status
Similar threads
