Also I don't know if it is relevant or not but the new unit they gave me has more of a "click" sound when you press the fire button.
- Status
You should be fine with the e leaf charger.
Button clickiness from one unit to another is irrelevant to any other detail. Just one button clicks more than the other.
By all means, vape how you wanna. If you have tech questions, there's someone here to help at all times.
Tapatyped
Button clickiness from one unit to another is irrelevant to any other detail. Just one button clicks more than the other.
By all means, vape how you wanna. If you have tech questions, there's someone here to help at all times.
Tapatyped
All these posts about bad chargers maybe it was a bad unit. China never ships bad stuff do they?
All my mods use 18650, except iStick which has an internal cylindrical lithium polymer battery.
Lithium polymer batteries have very ow internal resistance, less than 50 mOhm, so they are very good for MOD use. They are cheap, too, because they have no case, just a foil bag. Up to ten times less expensive than an equivalent Li-Mn IMR battery. Therefore, preferred by MOD manufacturers.
But. Li-Po are the preferred batteries for RC models, this time because they provide high currents AND are lightweight. Because of the known dangers during the charge modelists use charge bags.
In the last five years, all lithium battery manufacturers started using a porous separator where the pores were closing at temperature above 70-80 celsius, so the battery stops working before getting to flash point -or self ignition- which is 160 C for Li-Co or 220 Celsius for Li-Mn. All reputable 18650 also have a PTC, which interrupts the current flow above 30 Amp.
Many Li-po batteries have none of these features - cheap is king.
In my iStick 20 -my only mod with built-in battery - I replaced the Li-po battery with a Panasonic 18650. I often had it in my trousers pocket, it made me nervous to have a potential firecracker right there. Even if, unless the damage is mechanical, most of the troubles with li-po happens during the charge. And, from some notice, it seemed that the chinese battery manufacturers had adopted the self-shutting separator industry-wide. So also defective Li-po batteries in MODS would heat up to 70-80 C and stop working without further damage. I can't tell -without seeing it -what is the case with the scalded iStick30 of the OP, but very likely some sort of protection has intervened, because a self-ignited old-style Li-po would have produced much more damage.
Regards
Lithium polymer batteries have very ow internal resistance, less than 50 mOhm, so they are very good for MOD use. They are cheap, too, because they have no case, just a foil bag. Up to ten times less expensive than an equivalent Li-Mn IMR battery. Therefore, preferred by MOD manufacturers.
But. Li-Po are the preferred batteries for RC models, this time because they provide high currents AND are lightweight. Because of the known dangers during the charge modelists use charge bags.
In the last five years, all lithium battery manufacturers started using a porous separator where the pores were closing at temperature above 70-80 celsius, so the battery stops working before getting to flash point -or self ignition- which is 160 C for Li-Co or 220 Celsius for Li-Mn. All reputable 18650 also have a PTC, which interrupts the current flow above 30 Amp.
Many Li-po batteries have none of these features - cheap is king.
In my iStick 20 -my only mod with built-in battery - I replaced the Li-po battery with a Panasonic 18650. I often had it in my trousers pocket, it made me nervous to have a potential firecracker right there. Even if, unless the damage is mechanical, most of the troubles with li-po happens during the charge. And, from some notice, it seemed that the chinese battery manufacturers had adopted the self-shutting separator industry-wide. So also defective Li-po batteries in MODS would heat up to 70-80 C and stop working without further damage. I can't tell -without seeing it -what is the case with the scalded iStick30 of the OP, but very likely some sort of protection has intervened, because a self-ignited old-style Li-po would have produced much more damage.
Regards
Someone needs to invent an easy use belt loop type mod holder. Quick release. Temp controlled auto release- gets hot, it falls off.
yes the problem seems to stem from using too light of a power source to charge the isticks with. Use a 2 amp adapter and not your PC or phone charger.
I agree completely - at least with respect to entry devices such as the iStick 30 (mechanical mods are a different story). I don't have that kind of technical expertise either, so I compensate by buying "full kits" with OEM chargers wherever possible. (This is not a criticism - I know what you were told by the vendor). I own both an iStick 20 and an iStick 30. I bought the full kit both times, as I wanted a spare OEM charger. (I'm not a fan of charging off of computer ports.). If I buy another, I'll probably buy just the battery.
That said, bad stuff can happen with any apv, so I always charge my devices in a 9"x9" aluminum cake pan. I did that even with my beginner ego-style batteries.
You'll be fine with your iStick 30. It's just as user friendly as the iTaste VV. Don't worry, be happy.
I agree completely - at least with respect to entry devices such as the iStick 30 (mechanical mods are a different story). I don't have that kind of technical expertise either, so I compensate by buying "full kits" with OEM chargers wherever possible. (This is not a criticism - I know what you were told by the vendor). I own both an iStick 20 and an iStick 30. I bought the full kit both times, as I wanted a spare OEM charger. (I'm not a fan of charging off of computer ports.). If I buy another, I'll probably buy just the battery.
That said, bad stuff can happen with any apv, so I always charge my devices in a 9"x9" aluminum cake pan. I did that even with my beginner ego-style batteries.
You'll be fine with your iStick 30. It's just as user friendly as the iTaste VV. Don't worry, be happy.
might want to switch to steel. the temps some of these batteries can throw when they vent will melt aluminum.
Guess I'll have to take that risk. Steel rusts like crazy in my locale and I'm not about to go running around looking for a galvanized pan just to charge my iSticks.
For me that all depends on the computer in question.
I would never charge off a laptop, but I charge off my home PC all of the time. But I know that the ASUS motherboard and USB3.0 port are designed to handle up to 1.5A battery charging, and my 850W power supply has far more than enough power to handle it. It can charge as fast if not faster than most USB wall wart chargers, and unlike wall wart chargers I've got multiple fuses and breakers that will prevent the current from exceeding the ports designed limits.
Last edited:
To the OP - glad to hear you were not seriously injured and that you were able to get a new iStick along with a proper charger.
To everyone else - thank you. There is some very useful information in this thread, esp to someone like myself who recently received their first real mod (an iStick 50w).
Cheers
To everyone else - thank you. There is some very useful information in this thread, esp to someone like myself who recently received their first real mod (an iStick 50w).
Cheers
WOW... Just read through this thread. As if things aren't confusing enough for those new to vaping and now this. There are lessons to be learned here. Vaping must be kept simple and reliable. Not sure Box Mods are there yet.
Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
Please don't listen to this. It is just wrong. Wall chargers do not push energy into whatever they are charging, they supply current for the device to accept whatever the charge circuit is designed for not to exceed it's own capacity.
If I plug a .5amp charger into my phone that charges @ up to 2.1amps, my phone will only charge at .5amp because that's all the charger can supply. If I plug that same phone into my usb power station that charges at a full 5 amps, my phone will only charge at 2.1 amps because that is what the charging circuit will accept.
All usb chargers are cross compatible per usb standards.
The current accepted is based on the devices charging circuit, the wall wart will never supply more unless it has an internal failure.
If this persons wall charger got hot/started smelling funny it indicates internal failure of the charger, likewise if the istick overheats it indicates internal failure of the istick, either internal battery or charging circuit failure.
How do we know that the usb ports on APVs are in compliance with USB standards? Just curious.
If the box or port says usb, it is compliant. If the cable fits, it's compliant. Usb is a free/cross platform standard so there is no reason to cheat the system.
Standard electricity in the US is 120AC, things with the standard plug are designed to work on 120volts, there would be no point in making an appliance with a standard plug that can't operate outside that parameter.
The above is a direct reference for usb powering. There is no reason to make a device that can't operate in the parameters of usb, there is no money saved by doing this. Quality control can't find every dud, and sometimes things just break from a previously undetected weakness.
Standard electricity in the US is 120AC, things with the standard plug are designed to work on 120volts, there would be no point in making an appliance with a standard plug that can't operate outside that parameter.
The above is a direct reference for usb powering. There is no reason to make a device that can't operate in the parameters of usb, there is no money saved by doing this. Quality control can't find every dud, and sometimes things just break from a previously undetected weakness.
Last edited:
Of the most common APV I have seen, they all have a current limiting resistor connected with the series pass element -which is switching the charge on or off. Provided that the input voltage stays stable at 5 Volt, this arrangement sets the charge current at 500 mA, 1 A, or any value between. If the USB source is capable of higher current, this normally will not be creating any problem.
Be aware that many old phone charger are providing 5.5 Volt on the USB socket, they are a great source of trouble as they will blew the charge IC and the current limiting resistor. The precision of the 5 V voltage is, very often, overlooked by end users. The use of a multimeter is always a wise precaution.
On a unrelated but connected issue, the eGo batteries doesn't have any charge voltage regulation nor any end-of-charge provision. They totally rely on the eGo charger (the squarish box with 510 connector at one end, and a USB plug at the other) for 4.2 Volt charge voltage and 400 mA current limitation. With those charger, often of very questionable quality (they are made with three bipolar SMD transistors) it is better to use a 5 V 0.5 A USB power source of high quality, just in case the cheapy eGo charger fails. End of charge is supposed to be taken care by the user, by disconnecting the battery when the LED turns green (i.e. the Li-Ion cell inside the eGo battery has reached 4.2 V and require disconnection).
Be aware that many old phone charger are providing 5.5 Volt on the USB socket, they are a great source of trouble as they will blew the charge IC and the current limiting resistor. The precision of the 5 V voltage is, very often, overlooked by end users. The use of a multimeter is always a wise precaution.
On a unrelated but connected issue, the eGo batteries doesn't have any charge voltage regulation nor any end-of-charge provision. They totally rely on the eGo charger (the squarish box with 510 connector at one end, and a USB plug at the other) for 4.2 Volt charge voltage and 400 mA current limitation. With those charger, often of very questionable quality (they are made with three bipolar SMD transistors) it is better to use a 5 V 0.5 A USB power source of high quality, just in case the cheapy eGo charger fails. End of charge is supposed to be taken care by the user, by disconnecting the battery when the LED turns green (i.e. the Li-Ion cell inside the eGo battery has reached 4.2 V and require disconnection).
Last edited:
This IS not entirely correct. Device charging circuits can be damaged if they do not get their required current ftom the usb device providing that current.
Last edited:
Any device that rely on the the power supply for current limiting, is not properly designed, and will not pass any certification for commercialisation, and gain none of the qualification marks (CE, FCC, etc.)
Sadly, some parallel imported items may fall into this category, as these unproper designs are very common in certain parts of the world.
Sadly, some parallel imported items may fall into this category, as these unproper designs are very common in certain parts of the world.
- Status
Similar threads
