For owners and potential owners of the Stick, we recently took one apart and decided to post this story and pictures for those that might be interested.
LED indicators were operating and batteries were charging, but a new Joye Stick V3 was not heating any of the gently but well connected atomizers. Apparently one or both of the power wires to the atomizer connector weren't attached well or at all. The atomizers were connecting firmly to it and the atomizer connector was not turning in its mounting though. Everything was fine, except it didn't work.
In the next day or so the atomizer connector did start turning during testing various atomizers. There were only a number of firm hand-tightening attempts with two different 302 atomizers (just 302, no 801 4072 112) and later on with adapters and various 808 and 510 cartomizers/atomizers. Obviously at one point the torque on the connector became excessive and it started to move when attaching to it. If the wires had been attached in some way before, they certainly weren't now. Either way it hadn't been working, so apart it came.
Before taking it apart, the bottom cap's glue had dissolved during cleaning the atomizer connector with 95% Isopropyl Alcohol so the cap was no longer attached. (The 95IA also dissolved some of the textured rubber covering on the plate that covers the switch circuit board.)
The main circuit board was somewhat difficult to remove even with the screws out, it pretty much had to be pried out of the body due to the USB jack and how the board fits in the body. (It does appear to go back in more easily though, at least with no wires reattached to anything.)
The small black and red wires near the jack go to that atomizer connector, and indeed neither was attached now, as expected. No bare wires from them were showing. If they were attached, they'd "snapped off" during the moving/twisting.
The large red wire (battery +) was cut towards the middle on purpose in order to fully remove the board from the body and in order to not have it break somewhere difficult to reach. (The battery cap unit did not easily come out of the body, so it was left in place.)
The two smaller wires on the bottom go to the switch board and just came off at some point earlier on during disassembly.
The atomizer connector fits into the body under one of the screw mounts, into the tube for the atomizer. This is a fairly tight area in the body, but nothing behind the connector really stops the atomizer connector from moving back some or from turning. It's easy to remove the atomizer connector with it apart, although it has to be tilted sideways a bit. When it's not already loose enough to be turning like it was, it likely would need to be pushed out of the tube (towards where the main circuit board goes) in some way first though.
All that was holding it into the body seems to be the ridges on the bottom of the atomizer connector. There was no glue or epoxy holding it in more firmly or to stop it from ever spinning. This lack of something other than the ridges of the connector in the body holding the connector firm might not be the case in all versions and variations of this product, but it was in this one.
It appears possible to reassemble the unit by soldering these wires and/or other short wire replacements/extensions, although the fit is a bit tight. Once the atomizer connector had been firmly resoldered back to the wires, the opportunity might then be there to epoxy or hot glue the adapter connector and its wires in place and perhaps still have room to assemble the unit as it was. This hasn't been attempted though.
For units that are together and working, taking it apart appears to be the only way (short of drilling holes in the side of the body, one imagines) to really get to the connector's back to glue it in, although taking it apart to do so might break the wires during the process.
LED indicators were operating and batteries were charging, but a new Joye Stick V3 was not heating any of the gently but well connected atomizers. Apparently one or both of the power wires to the atomizer connector weren't attached well or at all. The atomizers were connecting firmly to it and the atomizer connector was not turning in its mounting though. Everything was fine, except it didn't work.
In the next day or so the atomizer connector did start turning during testing various atomizers. There were only a number of firm hand-tightening attempts with two different 302 atomizers (just 302, no 801 4072 112) and later on with adapters and various 808 and 510 cartomizers/atomizers. Obviously at one point the torque on the connector became excessive and it started to move when attaching to it. If the wires had been attached in some way before, they certainly weren't now. Either way it hadn't been working, so apart it came.
Before taking it apart, the bottom cap's glue had dissolved during cleaning the atomizer connector with 95% Isopropyl Alcohol so the cap was no longer attached. (The 95IA also dissolved some of the textured rubber covering on the plate that covers the switch circuit board.)
The main circuit board was somewhat difficult to remove even with the screws out, it pretty much had to be pried out of the body due to the USB jack and how the board fits in the body. (It does appear to go back in more easily though, at least with no wires reattached to anything.)
The small black and red wires near the jack go to that atomizer connector, and indeed neither was attached now, as expected. No bare wires from them were showing. If they were attached, they'd "snapped off" during the moving/twisting.
The large red wire (battery +) was cut towards the middle on purpose in order to fully remove the board from the body and in order to not have it break somewhere difficult to reach. (The battery cap unit did not easily come out of the body, so it was left in place.)
The two smaller wires on the bottom go to the switch board and just came off at some point earlier on during disassembly.
The atomizer connector fits into the body under one of the screw mounts, into the tube for the atomizer. This is a fairly tight area in the body, but nothing behind the connector really stops the atomizer connector from moving back some or from turning. It's easy to remove the atomizer connector with it apart, although it has to be tilted sideways a bit. When it's not already loose enough to be turning like it was, it likely would need to be pushed out of the tube (towards where the main circuit board goes) in some way first though.
All that was holding it into the body seems to be the ridges on the bottom of the atomizer connector. There was no glue or epoxy holding it in more firmly or to stop it from ever spinning. This lack of something other than the ridges of the connector in the body holding the connector firm might not be the case in all versions and variations of this product, but it was in this one.
It appears possible to reassemble the unit by soldering these wires and/or other short wire replacements/extensions, although the fit is a bit tight. Once the atomizer connector had been firmly resoldered back to the wires, the opportunity might then be there to epoxy or hot glue the adapter connector and its wires in place and perhaps still have room to assemble the unit as it was. This hasn't been attempted though.
For units that are together and working, taking it apart appears to be the only way (short of drilling holes in the side of the body, one imagines) to really get to the connector's back to glue it in, although taking it apart to do so might break the wires during the process.
