Joyetech Delta II SUB-ohm

[stulda]

I've purchased the Delta tank with some spare coils. Bought it from the legit vendor here in the UK and coils were bought directly from the Joyetech uk website.
Check the barcodes and both are indeed genuine.
Unfortunately I'm having a hard time to make this bad boy work.
So far tried 3 coils and each tastes burned really bad. I took time to make sure the coils were really well primed due to the size and amount of cotton inside it.
I let it sit over an hour in the tank after the priming to make sure they'd be soaked with full of juice. The second coil was primed to the extend that a little juice leaked from the bottom of the coil.
Using my 50W iStick I took the wattage down and start slowly. That would just bring the burnt taste almost instantly. As it's knows that delta's coils are quite power hungry to even get running I've tried starting at 20W with my next attempt. Unfortunately all I got was the same result.
Burnt bad taste almost instantly. The coils were primed really nice I could see the cotton being nice and soaked. Few primer puffs without pressing a fire button...
Tried to play with the air hole too. My juice is 55/45 VG/PG. Coil just control fully open.
No idea what else to try. 3 coils burned so far and it kind of put me off of it.

Other than that the tank is built so well and the coils are absolutely beasts. I'm hopeless :-/

 

[jazz62]

Have you tried the iStick with a different tank or atty to make sure it's working correctly?

 

[stulda]

Have you tried the iStick with a different tank or atty to make sure it's working correctly?

Aye I'm having some great times with Sub Tank Minis. Owe 3 of these bad boys already.

 

[350ZMO]

Now that's different. What resistance is the iStick showing it to be while vaping?

 

[Bikenstein]

I saw on Facebook the other day that they're releasing a black version of the delta ll. Honestly it looked pretty sweet!

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I've got one coming from a co-op. Have they went to cotton wicks yet?

 

[erikbal]

I've got one coming from a co-op. Have they went to cotton wicks yet? View attachment 420905

I'm not sure about the wicks but that black one looks sick in my opinion. I'd love one for my black 50w istick.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Bikenstein]

I'm not sure about the wicks but that black one looks sick in my opinion. I'd love one for my black 50w istick.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Yeah that's what this one's goin on. I think the rba base I bought is ss though. It'll still look sic

 

[erikbal]

Yeah for sure. I'd like to see what it looks like when you get it.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Bikenstein]

Yeah for sure. I'd like to see what it looks like when you get it.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I'll post a pic. But I'm not sure when I'll get it. Payments on the co-op are bein collected as of yesterday so It will be a while before the order comes in.

 

[tank49]

After a month of having my Delta II sitting unused due to nasty wicking, & refusal to buy the RBA head cuz of it's poor juice flow, i finally re-wicked the stock LVC coil w/Japanese cotton and.....Wow !!! Great taste !! Using it w/Aspire CF "mech" & that's all the power i need to get great hits w/o having to pull too hard. And easy to rebuild w/the way the neg lead is trapped.

Here are some links to build tutorials: this one is okay & got me thru it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSFj2fSYKO0

this one is great !! & was uploaded 1 day after i rewicked mine (it shows a Nickel build but has all needed info to do it w/the stock NR-R-NR coil, just need a 5/32nds coiling rod - 3.93mm) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDfM-YvMU0E

(Edit - if you don't have a 5/32nds (3.93mm) you can use a 3.5mm rod & tighten up the coil accordingly, then will have a few extra mm's for the leads, but imo better to save that for a 2nd 3rd or 4th re-wick, if the wire lasts that long? It's easy enough to re-trap the original leads esp if you keep that in mind while manipulating the original coil on a 5/32 rod)

The LVC heads are Really Easy to take apart and re-wick & have Much better juice flow than the RBA (Edit- According to people w/better lnowledge than me, i didn't buy one for many reasons). It's 24 gauge so takes a second to heat up. 6 wraps of 24g Res wire + a wrap or so of NR wire on each end, 8 wraps total.

Way more than the 3 wraps of 26g Res wire in an Atlantis head, & easier to rebuild. Now i want a black Delta II, after a month of wishing i had never bought this tank +5pk of LVC coils.

 

[Sykriss]

So I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a Delta II today, after watching just about every review there was to be seen for the device and reading the majority of this thread as well as quite a few others. So far, I have been pretty satisfied. The flavor and vapor on my first few hits was a bit underwhelming but it quickly broke in and seems to be performing fairly well now. Flavor is about a 8.5/10 (with a 10/10 being a Hobo RDA with a .3 ohm dual coil build using 26ga) and vapor is around the same. However, when I decided to see how accurate the ohms were on the coil heads I was presented with something a bit alarming. Upon screwing the tank onto my ohm reader, it jumps around like crazy between 0.1 and a dead short. Now I know what you're thinking, oh man, your ohm reader is screwed up! No, it isn't. I've tested it with a dead short and it reads at 0 on point, as well as testing various other RDAs (like my hobo) and it has been very accurate. Can another Delta II owner try this and see their results? Also, I know it's an authentic Delta II, I checked my serial code on Joyetechs website.

 

[tank49]

So I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a Delta II today, after watching just about every review there was to be seen for the device and reading the majority of this thread as well as quite a few others. So far, I have been pretty satisfied. The flavor and vapor on my first few hits was a bit underwhelming but it quickly broke in and seems to be performing fairly well now. Flavor is about a 8.5/10 (with a 10/10 being a Hobo RDA with a .3 ohm dual coil build using 26ga) and vapor is around the same. However, when I decided to see how accurate the ohms were on the coil heads I was presented with something a bit alarming. Upon screwing the tank onto my ohm reader, it jumps around like crazy between 0.1 and a dead short. Now I know what you're thinking, oh man, your ohm reader is screwed up! No, it isn't. I've tested it with a dead short and it reads at 0 on point, as well as testing various other RDAs (like my hobo) and it has been very accurate. Can another Delta II owner try this and see their results? Also, I know it's an authentic Delta II, I checked my serial code on Joyetechs website.

I tried it again just now & still get a consistent .51 or .52 ohms w/ the LVC heads.

The only thing i can think of is the tops of those heads stick to the top of the chimney, so for example when i unscrewed the base to refill the 1st couple times the coil head stayed stuck to the chimney, & base came off w/o coil head. I had to Really torque it down. What i'm trying to say is perhaps the bottom pin of your coil head is not making good enough contact w/the part inside the base that connects to the 510 ?

Or maybe you have a bum coil head ? Have you tried a 2nd one ?

You said coil head, so i'm thinking you're not using the RBA head ? Are you ? If not then ignore the next paragraph.

There is a very common issue some people have had w/the RBA head (and it does also match the symptoms you describe exactly), which is building the coil with the leads coming off the bottom (KayFun style) but using the lower holes to trap those leads, rather than the deck screws, thus risking the negative lead shorting to the positive block, rather than build w/ leads coming off the top of the coil as is best w/this RBA head. (same setup as a Lemo) I saw a reviewer do exactly this, very recently, & symptoms were identical. (vaped ok, but ohms jumping around like crazy, & i saw the neg lead touching the pos block in the video)

 

[jks89]

Has anyone had any issues with the Delta II RBA not making a connection with your mod? When I put it on my ohms meter it seems to read it, but when I put it on my iStick 30w or 50w they both read 0.0 ohms. Tried with the pre-installed coil that came with the RBA as well as one I wrapped myself. The stock coil seems to be making a connection just fine.

Edit: I unscrewed the bottom screw in the RBA, and now it's making a connection. As long is the insulator is still making contact with the block, is there anything I should be concerned about?

 

[Sykriss]

I tried it again just now & still get a consistent .51 or .52 ohms w/ the LVC heads.

The only thing i can think of is the tops of those heads stick to the top of the chimney, so for example when i unscrewed the base to refill the 1st couple times the coil head stayed stuck to the chimney, & base came off w/o coil head. I had to Really torque it down. What i'm trying to say is perhaps the bottom pin of your coil head is not making good enough contact w/the part inside the base that connects to the 510 ?

Or maybe you have a bum coil head ? Have you tried a 2nd one ?

You said coil head, so i'm thinking you're not using the RBA head ? Are you ? If not then ignore the next paragraph.

There is a very common issue some people have had w/the RBA head (and it does also match the symptoms you describe exactly), which is building the coil with the leads coming off the bottom (KayFun style) but using the lower holes to trap those leads, rather than the deck screws, thus risking the negative lead shorting to the positive block, rather than build w/ leads coming off the top of the coil as is best w/this RBA head. (same setup as a Lemo) I saw a reviewer do exactly this, very recently, & symptoms were identical. (vaped ok, but ohms jumping around like crazy, & i saw the neg lead touching the pos block in the video)

I've been testing them without the tank on (so just the 510 connector with a coil head screwed on), and both of my coil heads did the same thing. Not using the RBA deck, although I plan on buying it when my local B&M gets it in. Although it reads as a dead short, it fires on my mech, although like I said it's a bit lackluster. It doesn't get hot or anything so I'm not concerned about it shorting as, if it was, I'm sure I'd know right away I ordered a Smok Xpro M80 specifically for use with the Delta II (and any other atties), so we'll see what happens when I get that in. (also, I'm aware of the shoddy temperature control on the M80; I don't plan on using TC so I'm fine with that)

EDIT: I forgot to mention something equally, if not more, interesting. I ripped apart one of the two coil heads that came with the device since I wanted to try a rebuild in it. I removed the coil whole without distorting it whatsoever, bent the leads in such a way that I could install the coil in one of my RDAs, and popped it on my ohm meter. Again, a dead short, although the coil dry fired just fine on my mech. Very weird.

 

[tank49]

EDIT: I forgot to mention something equally, if not more, interesting. I ripped apart one of the two coil heads that came with the device since I wanted to try a rebuild in it. I removed the coil whole without distorting it whatsoever, bent the leads in such a way that I could install the coil in one of my RDAs, and popped it on my ohm meter. Again, a dead short, although the coil dry fired just fine on my mech. Very weird.

Strange indeed. Esp what it did in your RDA. That both coils behaved the same way would lead me to look elsewhere, but you already did that w/ the RDA test. I'm at a loss what else to think. Very curious what it turns out to be ?

 

[punkrocknerd]

I've had my delta II for about a month now. I love it, using it on the istick 50w. My first 2 lvc coils lasted about over a week until i started getting dry hits. Im vaping at 30w and go though about 1 tank a day of eliquid. I use either max VG or 70 VG/30 PG. I ordered my replacment LVC's from the same vendor i bought the tank. I'm burning through these in like 3 or 4 days now. I couldnt believe that i was actually burning through them so quickly, so ive been keeping them rather than chucking them. All the videos I have seen online from reviews say they have had the coils on for 3+ weeks. I took one apart to see if the cotton just needed to be swapped out (which ive never done this before on any tanks, i have 0 RBA experience). The coil had some burnt juice and the cotton was fine! Im sure this is just from my high VG juices.
Any cleaning tips for these LVC's without taking them apart? I havent been using anything but qtips and warm water every other day.

 

[punkrocknerd]

I forgot to mention i cleaned the coil with alcohol, and put the cotton back in, and presto NO DRY HITS

 

[tank49]

I've had my delta II for about a month now. I love it, using it on the istick 50w. My first 2 lvc coils lasted about over a week until i started getting dry hits. Im vaping at 30w and go though about 1 tank a day of eliquid. I use either max VG or 70 VG/30 PG. I ordered my replacment LVC's from the same vendor i bought the tank. I'm burning through these in like 3 or 4 days now. I couldnt believe that i was actually burning through them so quickly, so ive been keeping them rather than chucking them. All the videos I have seen online from reviews say they have had the coils on for 3+ weeks. I took one apart to see if the cotton just needed to be swapped out (which ive never done this before on any tanks, i have 0 RBA experience). The coil had some burnt juice and the cotton was fine! Im sure this is just from my high VG juices.
Any cleaning tips for these LVC's without taking them apart? I havent been using anything but qtips and warm water every other day.

Hope you are using distilled water. Qtips are great for cleaning condensation in drip tip area, & coil heads last longer w/less condendation flowing back down into the wicking, but the hassle of doing that is debatable if it's worth it, depends on many other factors. But cleaning the actual coil w/ qtips & alcohol while it's in your tank may not be the best way to go ?? risk of inhaling small pieces of cotton if they snag on the coil, & alcohol is potentially toxic when inhaled. Unfortunately the best way to clean these LVC coils is by taking them apart, but they should not need cleaning anywhere near that often.

Doesn't sound like you are using any dark colored clogging juices, so the most likely reasons why your coils are lasting 3-4 days rather than 3 weeks is the istick mod and/or poor quality control at Joyetech. (the type of cotton in these coils doesnt wick all that well, Aspire actually uses 1 wrap of it on the outer section of the Atlantis coil heads to help prevent flooding. I have no idea why Joyetech wrapped 6 inches of it around these coils)

iSticks use some form of PWM (pulse width modulation) - basically zapping coils w/higher voltages but in an on-off-on-off multiple times per second pattern to make the "average" voltage be what the device is showing. Rather than a flat steady output hitting the coil at the voltage it's supposed to, like most mid to high end regulated mods do, as well as mech mods.

IIRC the istick 50 uses PWM at lower voltages & only goes to an Almost steady output above 5 volts, so it's really not all that bad, esp for it's price. PBusardo reviewed it recently. But a flat steady output results in Much longer coil life. My regulated mods that do 30+ watts are in the low 4 volt range at 30w, so if your istick shows voltage significantly under 5 volts at 30w, that is almost certainly an issue w/ how long your coils are lasting.....

But the istick 50 is nowhere near as bad as say a Vamo (which for example would just wreak havoc on coils & go thru them up to 10+ times faster than a mod w/ a flat steady output. That's from personal experience). You can learn about this by watching Phil Busardo's reviews of regulated mods, where in the later part of a review he shows what the output signals look like w/ his testing equipment. PWM or nice flat steady output is usually the 1st thing he tests for when he gets into graphs & charts. His Vamo review from 2 years ago shows PWM at its worst.

Now if only Joyetech would sell these coil heads properly wicked from the factory........

 

[punkrocknerd]

I only cleaned the coil with the alcohol when it was completely taken apart and then rinsed it with water for 5 minutes. I would not want to inhale that lol. Im not using dark juices, they are actually clear.. The voltage reading is 3.8v. Which is actually correct if you do the math with a .5 ohn coil. If i go to 35 w its 4.2v. I just dropped money on this mod im not buying another. I think its just finally time to go RBA with it. It sucks because i was avoiding that with this tank. Maybe ill jusr rebuild the LVC heads. I'll start cleaning the condensation more often and see if that helps first. And yea theres ALOT of friggn cotton, in theory couldnt that avoid dry hitting though?

 

[tank49]

A lot of cotton doesnt neccessarily equal no dry hits. The cotton in these LVC heads is unlike any cotton i have ever seen before used as actual wicking.

Dont feel bad about the mod, i bought 3 Vamos before i learned about PWM's effect on coils, & the istick 50 at least goes to an almost steady voltage output at about 4.8 to 5 volts. Vamo was incomparably worse. You will get your moneys worth out of it before the batteries in it wear out.

You can also avoid extra condensation by letting off the power a second before you stop inhaling.

Before buying the RBA for this tank you may want to search youtube for "Delta II hack" to see its limitations w/ juice flow capability. Or just look at pictures of it compared to the LVC's. It's not the best RBA but at $15 it is a bargain way to start rebuilding.

Re-wicking the LVC head's stock NR-R-NR coil is a good way to go, but you cant just build coils out of Kanthal for it, or the insulator will slowly get burned. With a 5/32 rod you can rewick the stock coils w/ super absorbant Japanese cotton, & put just 1 wrap of the original cotton around the outside of that, before putting it all back together. Or just remove the stupid little pieces of silica/ceramic & maybe re-wrap that original cotton like it was before ? (i haven't tried that yet, but the coils worked ok stock, it was just that stupid silica/ceramic piece that would get burnt & cause the rest of the coil head to then not be right) Just be sure to test (preferably w/ a $10-15 ohm meter, or multimeter if you are familiar w/them) anything you rebuild before actually using it.

Another possibility is the Atlantis version 2 tank is coming out any day now, & will have .3 ohm coils as an option, which should enable you to run the iStick 50 at 45-50 watts, right where it has an almost steady output. The Delta II doesn't have quite enough airflow to run the LVC's at 45-50 watts, but you could file the air slots and/or drill them out at the corners, if you wanted. (search youtube for "Delta II hack" for this also)

I would not want the Delta II as my only tank. In addition to coil related issues, it cant be properly cleaned, so it will have dried juice remnants inside the tank within very little time, & in crevices that hot water & mini brushes alone wont be able to clean, those glass windows are most likely glued to the steel too. To me the huge vertical heads w/6 wraps of 24g Res wire were the big attraction of this tank, & only reason i bought it. My Atlantis tanks are my main go to vapes.