Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

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workman70

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What are the firmware versions? I wonder if they tweaked the screen brightness between revisions to save a smidgen of battery life?

BTW 20 clicks gives you the firmware version.

Both are version 1.18

The picture doesn't do it justice. The left one is pretty dim. It almost looks like it would look like with a layer of window tint on it. The right one seems normal, but it is bright. I'll compare it to my istick or if I see someone else who has one or has one in stock. Not a big deal, just makes me wonder about connections. Hits fine.
 

workman70

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Nah
There is a protective film on the screen. Any chance that's causing the difference?
Nah, both still have the protective film. Don't know if one is too bright or one is too dim. I hate sending crap back, aespecially when I don't know which is the issue.
 
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TheBloke

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TheBloke

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Don't know how much 79.99€ are in pounds but it's the full kit. My BM sells it. They say they will have stock next week?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Oh that's very good indeed - £57 for the full kit, which is £67 here on eBay (€93.) I'm actually paying slightly over the odds for the mod-only at £55, because I could get the full kit for £67 and sell the tank for £17 meaning it cost £50. But then I know I'll never get around to selling the tank.

But I figure if I added postage from Portugal yours would be more expensive. Plus it's hard enough me waiting until Tuesday for it to ship, let alone waiting also for delivery from Portugal :)

Thanks though. Of course it's yet more confirmation that UK is Rip Off Britain!
 

JeremyR

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Very interesting discussion the last day, thanks for the insight bloke.

On this there are no wires off the 510 it sits directly on a contact disc on the board. The brass screw is the negative.




I guess the 510 spring design could have an effect in readings.
 

JeremyR

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The board is tight, just the positive pin protuding out, touching the disc, possibly with some spring tension.

I haven't disassembled the upper end fully. The brass screw you see up front goes though the negative ring in the board and to the top plate metal to complete the circuit.
 

SheerLuckHolmes

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I've been using my eVic VT for about a week with the Ni head. I've been enjoying it. Then for the last two days it has been leaking like a screen door in a submarine. Holy Balls! Put the Ti head in last light and it is not leaking again. Will this be our indicator that the head has gone bad? If the heads only last a week, they better release the replacement heads FAST!

Any one have a suggestion for he biggest build deck on a RTA? I'm thinking I want to make my own Ti coils on a RTA but need the room for about 22wraps.
 

TheBloke

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22 wraps? How do you figure that?

Titanium needs fewer coils than Ni200, about 3 times fewer for the same thickness of wire. More than for Kanthal, true.

But why would you need/want 22 wraps specifically? Are you sure you're calculating that right?

Putting that into Steam Engine, for 28G Titanium, that means you're trying to build a 1.5Ω coil? 0.3Ω - 0.5Ω is far more typical for Titanium. You'd have to check the VT will even do TC above 1.0Ω, no other TC mod will that I know of.

The Lemo 1 and 2 have a decent sized RTA deck for single coil - I'd only recommend the 2 though, as the 1 can have issues with TC unless you fix the 510 pin with an o-ring. The Taifun GT2 isn't bad. Squape R / Rs also OK.
 

BNEAT

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In case anyone was wondering, the eGo ONE Mega Ti coil is 26awg x 4mm x 6 nicely spaced wraps. Really nice looking coil, too. The positive leg is pinched between the silicon insulator and the brass center pin, which is 3.5mm long, so there's plenty of contact surface to make a connection, but the Center pin doesn't really seem to fit tight enough in the insulator to make it very stable.

The way my eVic has been behaving I can't really point a finger at the Mega, except that it needs larger juice holes to keep up with that big coil.

Oh, and the wick is a strip of woven cloth of some sort wrapped around the vertical coil.
 
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tchavei

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Very interesting discussion the last day, thanks for the insight bloke.

On this there are no wires off the 510 it sits directly on a contact disc on the board. The brass screw is the negative.




I guess the 510 spring design could have an effect in readings.
Hmm but isn't the VT using a lipo? The lipo is a soft pack so a couple of wires have to go to the board and then the 510 connector pin touches a disc on the board right? Lipos don't have discs.

If this is correct, a press connection is always worse than a soldered one.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

tchavei

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Hmmm well that's a very interesting theory, because that's exactly what the Dicodes does. With the Dicodes, you have to tell it to lock the resistance - similar principle to Set Resistance on a Yihi.

When you do that, it probes the coil with a small voltage, which I believe is a fixed amount such that it pushes different coil types up by varying amounts of temp. I haven't been able to see how much voltage applies because it's so fast it just causes my DMM screen to flash without displaying a figure.

But I can see it on the Dicodes screen - after probing the coil it shows the temperature as >20°C for a minute or so until it settles back to 20°C (the Dicodes assumes all coils are 20°C as it has no internal thermometer.) And more importantly I can see it on my external temperature sensor.

So could the Joyetech being doing the same? Absolutely. But if it is and isn't then refining away the difference, or simply showing the locked base resistance pre-probe, then that's.. odd. Of course it might simply be a display bug, and it locks at 0.34Ω, probes it up to 0.37Ω, displays 0.37Ω, but keeps using 0.34Ω.

I still don't understand why my Dicodes even does this probe. It's not mentioned in the manual or their separate Application Guide for Temp Control Vaping, which is otherwise rather detailed on their methods. I don't quite see what it achieves.

Anyway, assuming you put the coil on at 20°C, a 0.34Ω Titanium coil heated to 0.37°C has increased in temp to 45.21°C. That's in the right ballpark for where the Dicodes often heats coils to - at least Ni200, which can go as high as 60°C according to the temp probe. Titanium coils heat less. Not that that means anything, if the Joyetech is applying a small voltage it won't be exactly the same as the Dicodes.

So yeah, your theory is a good one. If correct it's still weird that it shows the post-probe resistance, but that could be a simple display bug.

When does the VT detect resistance? Do you have to press a button, or is it auto once you've screwed on the coil? If you have to press any button, then you could probably detect the voltage if you have any kind of DMM or volt meter. Connect it to the atty posts with crocodile clips and then press the button. On mine all I see is the scale at the bottom flash (the visual graph thing that's gives a bar-graph type display of the signal), I never see a figure, but before I got my temp probe it was enough to verify that there was a voltage being applied.

I was thinking of ordering a VT today but I might wait till early next week to get one a bit cheaper without the tank. As soon as I get it I'll be able to tell immediately on the temp probe.
I haven't measured it but I read somewhere that someone measured it being around 1.7V or something. Can't be sure without fetching my multimeter. Maybe it's those clicks we hear for 4 minutes?

Regards
Tony

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JeremyR

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Well the istick 50 lasted me the same or longer than this- in kanthal mode. This is a lot more advanced so it is going to use more battery. Like cell phones the more things they do the faster they run the battery down. The 50w was a relatively simple machine compared to this.. Obviously all the sampling it has to do runs it down in vw mode where your not compensating run time with temp control down regulation.

Stats - joyetch evic vt.
Kanthal - .75 ohm
Power - 35-40w indicated (feels like 3-5 w more than indicated to me?)
Runtime - 734 puffs , 1266 sec.
Days - for me about 2 & 1/4 days
 

JeremyR

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Hmm but isn't the VT using a lipo? The lipo is a soft pack so a couple of wires have to go to the board and then the 510 connector pin touches a disc on the board right? Lipos don't have discs.

If this is correct, a press connection is always worse than a soldered one.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

See picture above. No wires to 510. Notice under the 510 you see light around the center pin thats protruding to the board from the 510 assembly.
 
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JeremyR

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I made it to 1200 puffs the other day on the VT so that's not bad at all.

Regards
Tony

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Yeah it's not bad, still great to go 2 days. But was hoping the extra "1000" would have added another day but since it has so much idle run time working it takes away from it.

They claim tc Increaces battery life significantly. Havent tried it yet. I'm assuming since thier charts show battery life much longer in temp mode, maybe they thought that was good enough to say it had 500 more mah than it does. Lol
 

TheBloke

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I haven't measured it but I read somewhere that someone measured it being around 1.7V or something. Can't be sure without fetching my multimeter. Maybe it's those clicks we hear for 4 minutes?

Regards
Tony

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Ah ha well that's it then. 1.7V is more than enough to push the temp and resistance up. It's daft though that it shows the post-probe resistance. I would say let's hope it doesn't use that post-probe resistance for TC, but clearly it can't based on your using it at 240°C.

Does it have refinement? Someone was mentioning resistance dropping over time by about 0.02Ω. Is that common, or just his mod?
 
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