Joyetech ULTIMO on a mechanical MOD
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Ok, for a mechanical mod, we would use the ohms law calculator.
It's all about the battery in this case.. let's work with the most power hungry scenario, the 0,25 head, and the momentary fully charged battery's 4.2 volts..
That will draw 16.8 amps and around 70 watts. At the battery's absolute peak charge. it's a single battery mod so this makes the calculation fairly simple.
I'd recommend a sony vtc5a, and you should be fine. even with some other batteries, but for a mech mod i am recommending the vtc5a cause it's a darn fine battery with good run time. Regarding the calculations, of course i'd want someone else to back my figures up before recommending them as absolute, as we are dealing with safety issues here, where nothing is more important than yours in this case.
It's all about the battery in this case.. let's work with the most power hungry scenario, the 0,25 head, and the momentary fully charged battery's 4.2 volts..
That will draw 16.8 amps and around 70 watts. At the battery's absolute peak charge. it's a single battery mod so this makes the calculation fairly simple.
I'd recommend a sony vtc5a, and you should be fine. even with some other batteries, but for a mech mod i am recommending the vtc5a cause it's a darn fine battery with good run time. Regarding the calculations, of course i'd want someone else to back my figures up before recommending them as absolute, as we are dealing with safety issues here, where nothing is more important than yours in this case.
Oh, i just saw the rebuildable part.. sorry!
How low exactly in ohms would you want to go? Of course, in this case of building, a good ohm meter is absolutely essential, before you even think of firing it on the mod.
How low exactly in ohms would you want to go? Of course, in this case of building, a good ohm meter is absolutely essential, before you even think of firing it on the mod.
Well, I suppose to use a 0.5 - 1.0 ohm coil, not any lower than that. I've got attracted by this mod by its design
oh really? You won't even break a sweat, absolutely, go for it.Well, I suppose to use a 0.5 - 1.0 ohm coil, not any lower than that. I've got attracted by this mod by its design
Just remember, even if you think you built only a 0.5 coil, ohm test, ohm test, ohm test before using.
May i ask what 18650 you plan to use in it?
My 1st recommendation is vtc5a as stated
second is 30Q or 25R.
Yes, of course I'll test the coil. I wouldn't dare not to
I have 4 Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh (15Amp) and I'll purchese the vtc5a.
Thanks for help and recommendation.
If you're not experienced with mech mods, a 1ohm coil might perform... underwhelming.
The voltage will be 4,2v but lower under load. More like 3,9v fresh off the charger.
3,9squared/1ohm is 15,21W which many people would love, but I would say mainly mouth-to-lungers.
And if your coil is too massive (top low gauge with many wraps) it will never heat up
0,5ohm obviously gives twice the wattage (except a bit less because the voltage will sag more under higher load), so that could give more decent cloudage, but still only around 30W
You will play a lot with this. Be ready to build a lot of coils, learning how to manage a mech build.
Just wanted to write, just in the case if you expected to blow huge clouds with a 1ohm build
Have fun and stay safe
The voltage will be 4,2v but lower under load. More like 3,9v fresh off the charger.
3,9squared/1ohm is 15,21W which many people would love, but I would say mainly mouth-to-lungers.
And if your coil is too massive (top low gauge with many wraps) it will never heat up
0,5ohm obviously gives twice the wattage (except a bit less because the voltage will sag more under higher load), so that could give more decent cloudage, but still only around 30W
You will play a lot with this. Be ready to build a lot of coils, learning how to manage a mech build.
Just wanted to write, just in the case if you expected to blow huge clouds with a 1ohm build
Have fun and stay safe
And to your original question... I would not put the ultimo on the karma.
I don't own a karma, but i've read that it's a hybrid. That ultimo certantly does not have a significantly protruding 510 pin, so that seems dangerous.
I don't own a karma, but i've read that it's a hybrid. That ultimo certantly does not have a significantly protruding 510 pin, so that seems dangerous.
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Please be careful with the direct to battery connections. YOU are the safety from a hard short with these devices.
Sounds like others have given you better advice.. Never used a karma but if they are saying it's dangerous, i'd trust them over me.
Thanks for this reply. Great help!If you're not experienced with mech mods, a 1ohm coil might perform... underwhelming.
The voltage will be 4,2v but lower under load. More like 3,9v fresh off the charger.
3,9squared/1ohm is 15,21W which many people would love, but I would say mainly mouth-to-lungers.
And if your coil is too massive (top low gauge with many wraps) it will never heat up
0,5ohm obviously gives twice the wattage (except a bit less because the voltage will sag more under higher load), so that could give more decent cloudage, but still only around 30W
You will play a lot with this. Be ready to build a lot of coils, learning how to manage a mech build.
Just wanted to write, just in the case if you expected to blow huge clouds with a 1ohm build
Have fun and stay safe
I already do play with rebuilding coils and it's easy for me to do (I mess around with wrist watches and other fine mechanical stuff). I've done some experiences with eGo CL and CLR coils.
I'm interested in a proper puff (suction), not making huge clouds. I used to smoke pipes and cigarettes and I enjoyed to inhale with pipe tobacco too.
That's why the feeling of a proper puff is important to me.
Second issue is the volume of a tank.
I use 4+ ml of liquid a day, so the Ultimo will do it well. I'm using it at home on my Joyetech eVic VTC Dual Box MOD, but the eVic is to big to carry at.
And the design. I think, that most of the mechanical mods are looking great, especially those that are made of copper.
Yes. That concerns me too.
This is (I suppose) my only potential danger (too short 510 pin) in using this mod in the way that I attempt to do.
On the other hand, the original tank has a short protruding 510 pin too ...
comparing with the Ultimo
What do you thimk about the Wismec Reux? Does it have the same problem?
... or the GeekVape Eagle?
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Yes. That concerns me too.
This is (I suppose) my only potential danger (too short 510 pin) in using this mod in the way that I attempt to do.
On the other hand, the original tank has a short protruding 510 pin too ...
comparing with the Ultimo
What do you thimk about the Wismec Reux? Does it have the same problem?
... or the GeekVape Eagle?
I'm not sure about the other ones. Maybe someone else knows.
I see that you already ordered the karma, so this might not help, but you might want consider buying something else that doesn't have a hybrid connection. It will give you much more options when it comes to atomizers, and there are plenty of fantastic copper mods with a 510 connector.
Here on this other thread, we are just now in the middle of praising the broadside, which is a great alternative.
You can also find reviews on YouTube. Its one of the safest out there and it performs great. It is however 25mm. But again, there are plenty of options.
The Broadside
I would only use an adjustable 510 pin for a mech. The chance is just too great.
You won't get your best vape from a tank on a mech mod imho. RDAs are the way to go.
You won't get your best vape from a tank on a mech mod imho. RDAs are the way to go.
When you say tank, do you also mean RTAs?
To my understanding, the reason why replaceable anomizer tanks shouldn't be used on mech is, that they usually have a floating positive.
I currently use the merlin mini and the petri RTA on my broadside. The positive 510 doesn't protrude a great deal, but still enough that I'm comfortable that the negative won't make contact with the positive pin in the mech.
Non adjustable, floating, I really won't use either on a mech. I like a nice protruding pin. If you feel the pin is safely protruding enough to run on your mech then go for it. I tend to err on the side of caution when it comes to mechs.
Today, I was at the local shop where I bought my Ultimo and looked at some tanks.
The owner showed me those he have in stock (not many) and on most of them, I could push the bottom connector down (out) increasing the visible part of the pin.
Doing so, I should be able to detect how much the pin is sticking outside the 510 connector after removing it from the Karma mod.
I believe, this could be the way to determine if the given tank fits the mod or not.
The owner showed me those he have in stock (not many) and on most of them, I could push the bottom connector down (out) increasing the visible part of the pin.
Doing so, I should be able to detect how much the pin is sticking outside the 510 connector after removing it from the Karma mod.
I believe, this could be the way to determine if the given tank fits the mod or not.
That means that the pin could get pushed too far in when on the mech. You'll want an atty with a set pin that protrudes a lot. Faux hybrids like the Karma (don't mistake these with true hybrids, which have the atty and mod specifically designed for each other, and have no 510 pin) are unsafe by design. The benefits with them are minuscule and the dangers very real.
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OK, in this situation, I have to decide - only use the mod with the included RDA/RDTA tank or just leave it on my desk as a gadget
By the way, in case of a short, do the mod explode immediately, or get it hot at first?
By the way, in case of a short, do the mod explode immediately, or get it hot at first?
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