Just For LM2596 Users

[JohnnyDill]

Can anyone recommend a DPDT switch rated @ 6A that is as small as possible? I have an OKR T/6 project and I want to incorporate a micro USB charger. Thanks in advance!

 

[JimmyDB]

I can't 'recommend' one... but here are some results from DigiKey... I don't know your size requirements/etc, but generally the higher current switches are also larger.

DigiKey - Toggle 6A+

DigiKey - Rocker 6A+

 

[drmarble]

Do you really need a rated switch for this? You will not be turning it on/off when current is flowing so you should be able to get away with a much lower rated switch. There is no arcing. I would think that a 1 amp switch would be sufficient. If I was trying to sell these then I would want a high rated switch but if the user (you) is ready to replace the switch if it fails then I would save the space and money.
I remember some discussion of this over on Breaktru's forum. I don't remember their conclusion. Maybe I am wrong, but I don't think you need a big switch if you aren't turning on/off large currents but just passing those currents through closed switch terminals.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

I would go with at least a 3 amp switch. That's about as high as these boards go if you add a heavy duty heat sink. I know 1 version can go to 5, but it's not going to fit in a normal sized enclosure. A 3 amp fuse would be better used than a switch, imo.

 

[JohnnyDill]

Do you really need a rated switch for this? I don't think you need a big switch if you aren't turning on/off large currents but just passing those currents through closed switch terminals.

Hmmmm. Interesting thinking there. That sounds logical to me. Space is at a premium with this box. I am looking for a slide switch to wire in like the diagram mentioned a few posts ago, and the smaller the better. It is for an OKR T/6 with 18350 batts. I will see how much smaller a 3A is than a 6A.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Ah, Sorry Johnny, Didn't see your full post there via taptalk. For the OKR T/6 I would go at least 6.. I used a 13amp one (am using.. still building it..) on my last project OKR T/6 in a clear 1591A enclosure. Smallest one I could find on Mouser that I thought fit my needs.. still almost a inch long and deep..

GRS-4023A-0009 CW Industries | Mouser

DPDT On-Off-On Slide.. Can't tell the size of this one... but here is a slide S602031SS03Q C&K Components | Mouser

 

[JimmyDB]

Ah, Sorry Johnny, Didn't see your full post there via taptalk. For the OKR T/6 I would go at least 6.. I used a 13amp one (am using.. still building it..) on my last project OKR T/6 in a clear 1591A enclosure. Smallest one I could find on Mouser that I thought fit my needs.. still almost a inch long and deep..

GRS-4023A-0009 CW Industries | Mouser

DPDT On-Off-On Slide.. Can't tell the size of this one... but here is a slide S602031SS03Q C&K Components | Mouser

Hmmm... it looks like the S60203 is actually only rated at 1A for DC, and the GRS-4023A is only rated for 5A in this case.

(S5XX, S6XX Models): 12 AMPS @ 125 V AC; 6 AMPS @ 250 V AC; 1 AMP @ 125 V DC (UL/CSA).

5 A @ 14 V (T)

I provided the links I did because I didn't want to guess about where/how it was being used in the device and a 6A+ was specifically asked for.

Please remember that you can't re-rate a switch based on P=I*E nor does the AC rating apply to DC.

Switch manufacturers would love to advertise higher current ratings if they could get enough samples to pass the UL inspection and stay within regulatory guidelines etc. At the end of the day, it's up to you, as the liability is all yours

There is a difference between switching on a load and having a load enter after the switch is in the on position, that is a good point. This does not take full consideration of using the switch as an emergency off-switch though... as in that case, it would be under load when being used. All just things to remember, the decision is always yours.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Hmmm... it looks like the S60203 is actually only rated at 1A for DC, and the GRS-4023A is only rated for 5A in this case.

I claim lack of sleep at least on the slider.. ugh.. Thought my rocker might be 5amps.. :/

 

[JimmyDB]

I claim lack of sleep at least on the slider.. ugh.. Thought my rocker might be 5amps.. :/

No worries Professionally, designs and component selection always go through a peer review process (or more than one) and addendum check for new/updated information,... so if it's so easy for a pro to grab the wrong part... I think we amateurs/DIYs should be given plenty of leeway as well

 

[Visus]

I can vouch for using some switches as a passthru
For 2 years now vaped 30-40-50 watts daily
I have been using an aa battery box 50ma switch on 50-70 watt vapes.
I have checked it and absolutely no pitting...
I originally took it apart to inspect what I was dealing with and the switch uses a rod and slide thats equivalent to ~18ga wire so as a passthru its golden.
For my safety, using a fuse...
it can/has handled upwards of 12A passed thru it frequently.
If not for resell you make the choice, I did, and are happy I took others advice on it..
Shocker lol...

Heck I am using almost 24/7 3A C&K pushbutton on a 12v passthru at 120watts sometimes, always above or@ 50 lol No issues used for almost a year now..
I also use their 5a tact to success other than it takes arnold swarz fingers to push it, its also killin it way way above spec..

As Jimmy says its up to you but from many others using both switches I chats about and 0 issues; you can be our new guy with the under rated dpdt switch lol...

 

[JohnnyDill]

As Jimmy says its up to you but from many others using both switches I chats about and 0 issues; you can be our new guy with the under rated dpdt switch lol...

Well, now I AM the new guy using an under rated DPDT switch. It is a good thing, since there was NO WAY a 6A switch would fit where it had to go. The DPDT switch I chose really had no DC rating but said it handled 5A @ 115v AC. I am sure it is rated for less than that using low voltage DC. Well it works fantastic. I have been monitoring for any voltage difference between the batts since this is definitely not a balance charger. So far, there is no measurable difference when all juiced up. Thanks for the advice, and that wiring schematic on this thread is a blessing. The T/6 is working great, and my Inawera Tobacco Pear/Dark Tobacco/DNB mix finally has a permanent setup to vape from. {The LEDs in the charger chip illuminating the juice bottle is the special added bonus to this setup when plugged in}


Edit: Did not mean to hijack this thread with an OKR build, but this is where I got the info on the DPDT switch.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

I'll be setting up an okr t10 at the end of the month with board from Iron Lung. Should be nice. Also, 2 each ork t6's with 14500 batteries.
Along the way, I'm going to try a single battery system using a lm2577 chip set. It's very simular to the lm2596, only it can take lower voltage and go up to 25watts. Should be interesting.
Still love my lm2596 and it still kicks ...., even when using my new Lemo with 1ohm coil.

Glad I could help with the switch setup Johnny!

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Well, my try at the LM2577 chip didn't work. just a waste of a few dollars. Unfortunately I did break my LM2596, knocked one of the capacitors off.
Good part is it's cheap to replace, but I'm going to get one of the higher amp rated ones next (a few actually)

My LM2596 box has been transformed again, this time to an OKR T10 on a board from Iron Lung. It woks.. But seems like I'll stay with building either the LM2596 boxes or use the Vamo/iStick/DNA boards from here out otherwise. At least with the VV/VW boards I can use 1 battery.

 

[BJ43]

Amazes me that this thread still exists. Over three years. LM2596 or as I like to call it, the "Model T of VV vaping.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Amazes me that this thread still exists. Over three years. LM2596 or as I like to call it, the "Model T of VV vaping.

That's because it works. Simply and Safely. You can Bell and Whistle it, or leave it as a Plain Jane.

 

[BJ43]

The beginning.... Many years ago.