That's really cool. I used one of those barrel connectors for charging on the mod I'm currently using. Those 5.5mm barrel connectors are really tough, last forever. They can handle big currents too. I'm using a mini-USB on the one I'm currently doing only because of size. The other is just a bit too large for my latest project. I would have used one if I could have found room for it.
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That's really cool. I used one of those barrel connectors for charging on the mod I'm currently using. Those 5.5mm barrel connectors are really tough, last forever. They can handle big currents too. I'm using a mini-USB on the one I'm currently doing only because of size. The other is just a bit too large for my latest project. I would have used one if I could have found room for it.
LM2596 DC-DC adjustable power step-down module NEW | eBay
This is the smallest model I have found, Dimension:43*20*14mm(L*W*H)
This is the smallest model I have found, Dimension:43*20*14mm(L*W*H)
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
These things are much more effective, smaller and cheaper
These things are much more effective, smaller and cheaper
I am reading up on encapsulating it in epoxy. I want to leave an air bubble over the heat sink area that will have air holes drilled to the outside. Have never done any molding or encapsulating so any advice is appreciated.
Can regular 2 part slow set epoxy be used?
Can regular 2 part slow set epoxy be used?
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Encapsulate a board into epoxy is a bad idea. The board elements are heating, so they deform their position. Better to keep the board intact.
Those particular ones are used, didn't know if you noticed that.
Robert
Robert
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
These things are much more effective, smaller and cheaper
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
These things are much more effective, smaller and cheaper
Those are not plug and play, you have to add resistors and a pot, by the time I put one together it would be bigger than the pre assembled one.
I use these type of 2.1mm connectors, not sure if they're any smaller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2-1mm...ltDomain_0&hash=item2310d9b46d#ht_3093wt_1005
I use those also but in this case I wanted to glue it to the board. It is also a 2.1mm and not as big as it looks in the pic.
You can get potting epoxy with good thermal characteristics. It's not cheap, but available. Dont' have a link for you though. 3M makes a bunch of different potting epoxies so you could look on their product site. It's common in electronics so you wouldn't be doing anything out of the ordinary. Heat sink epoxy works well for general assembly, but it would be too expensive to pot with it. I use this stuff. It's really strong and cures pretty fast.
One tip on glueing those PCB mount connectors (if not potting), drilling a couple small holes in the glue side of the connector prior to glueing allows the epoxy to hold much better, speaking from experience.
Those DC connectors on eBay are 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors which is like a standard size. They're panel mount so they're a little more compact than the through-hole ones, but still, it's the 5.5mm part that gives me trouble. I can get smaller non-standard sizes, but then they aren't as rugged and it's hard to find wall warts already wired up for them.
One tip on glueing those PCB mount connectors (if not potting), drilling a couple small holes in the glue side of the connector prior to glueing allows the epoxy to hold much better, speaking from experience.
Those DC connectors on eBay are 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors which is like a standard size. They're panel mount so they're a little more compact than the through-hole ones, but still, it's the 5.5mm part that gives me trouble. I can get smaller non-standard sizes, but then they aren't as rugged and it's hard to find wall warts already wired up for them.
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Wow, link to my other life...Arctic Silver thermal 5 is all I'll use now for PC building...and if you're doing any kind of clocking it can make a difference...
So I'm working on another convert to the e-cig world, a 2 pack a day office guy who simply can't talk on the phone without lighting up...we were all there...until we go through the consultancy process I'm building him a basic 18650 DCC tank mod and long term loan him my Ghetto PT:
...so I guess I have to build a new 2596 PT...I got to thinking about how I can blend my other "hobby" love and my post on the Arctic Silver thermal compound...so last night I ripped the heat sink off the GPU on an old ATI vid card, I cut a 1cm x 1cm chunk of copper plate and lapped it, I then laid some solder runs on the backside of the reg heat sink (if you can call it that), I torched the copper laid it hot on the solder runs...it sunk in and bonded really nice...I then lapped the ATI heat sink, spread some thermal and...
I'm working on a spring loaded retainer to keep a positive thermal join to the GPU heat sink...this will be mounted on a Toshiba 16V 5A PSU from an A20 Satellite (considerably more jam than the IBM PSU)...there's also way more real estate to hot glue stuff...I'm thinking 1 of these:
0-19.99V DC Blue LCD Digital Volt Panel Meter Voltmeter | eBay
and 1 of these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-0-5A-DC-B...ltDomain_0&hash=item2a175538aa#ht_2053wt_1163
to start...input please...
...until we go through the consultancy process I'm building him a basic 18650 DCC tank mod and long term loan him my Ghetto PT:
...so I guess I have to build a new 2596 PT...I got to thinking about how I can blend my other "hobby" love and my post on the Arctic Silver thermal compound...so last night I ripped the heat sink off the GPU on an old ATI vid card, I cut a 1cm x 1cm chunk of copper plate and lapped it, I then laid some solder runs on the backside of the reg heat sink (if you can call it that), I torched the copper laid it hot on the solder runs...it sunk in and bonded really nice...I then lapped the ATI heat sink, spread some thermal and...
I'm working on a spring loaded retainer to keep a positive thermal join to the GPU heat sink...this will be mounted on a Toshiba 16V 5A PSU from an A20 Satellite (considerably more jam than the IBM PSU)...there's also way more real estate to hot glue stuff...I'm thinking 1 of these:
0-19.99V DC Blue LCD Digital Volt Panel Meter Voltmeter | eBay
and 1 of these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-0-5A-DC-B...ltDomain_0&hash=item2a175538aa#ht_2053wt_1163
to start...input please...
So I'm working on another convert to the e-cig world, a 2 pack a day office guy who simply can't talk on the phone without lighting up...we were all there...until we go through the consultancy process I'm building him a basic 18650 DCC tank mod and long term loan him my Ghetto PT:
View attachment 78839
...so I guess I have to build a new 2596 PT...I got to thinking about how I can blend my other "hobby" love and my post on the Arctic Silver thermal compound...so last night I ripped the heat sink off the GPU on an old ATI vid card, I cut a 1cm x 1cm chunk of copper plate and lapped it, I then laid some solder runs on the backside of the reg heat sink (if you can call it that), I torched the copper laid it hot on the solder runs...it sunk in and bonded really nice...I then lapped the ATI heat sink, spread some thermal and...
View attachment 78840 View attachment 78841 View attachment 78842
I'm working on a spring loaded retainer to keep a positive thermal join to the GPU heat sink...this will be mounted on a Toshiba 16V 5A PSU from an A20 Satellite (considerably more jam than the IBM PSU)...there's also way more real estate to hot glue stuff...I'm thinking 1 of these:
0-19.99V DC Blue LCD Digital Volt Panel Meter Voltmeter | eBay
and 1 of these:
DC 0-5A DC Blue LCD Digital Panel Amp Meter ammeter Doesn't Require Shunt ELD69 | eBay
to start...input please...
...until we go through the consultancy process I'm building him a basic 18650 DCC tank mod and long term loan him my Ghetto PT:View attachment 78839
...so I guess I have to build a new 2596 PT...I got to thinking about how I can blend my other "hobby" love and my post on the Arctic Silver thermal compound...so last night I ripped the heat sink off the GPU on an old ATI vid card, I cut a 1cm x 1cm chunk of copper plate and lapped it, I then laid some solder runs on the backside of the reg heat sink (if you can call it that), I torched the copper laid it hot on the solder runs...it sunk in and bonded really nice...I then lapped the ATI heat sink, spread some thermal and...
View attachment 78840 View attachment 78841 View attachment 78842
I'm working on a spring loaded retainer to keep a positive thermal join to the GPU heat sink...this will be mounted on a Toshiba 16V 5A PSU from an A20 Satellite (considerably more jam than the IBM PSU)...there's also way more real estate to hot glue stuff...I'm thinking 1 of these:
0-19.99V DC Blue LCD Digital Volt Panel Meter Voltmeter | eBay
and 1 of these:
DC 0-5A DC Blue LCD Digital Panel Amp Meter ammeter Doesn't Require Shunt ELD69 | eBay
to start...input please...
How about adding an mp3 player and speakers?
Q!
And Bluetooth... because everything's better with Bluetooth
Good price on the 2596 with the volt meter attached for just under $10. with
free shipping on ebay Voltmeter LED display LM2596 DC-DC step-down adjustable voltage regulator module | eBay
free shipping on ebay Voltmeter LED display LM2596 DC-DC step-down adjustable voltage regulator module | eBay
Good find, a couple of batts, a box and a push button switch and you have a complete VV mod. I see $5 shipping when I go to the page, They also have one with an amp meter.
Just noticed the $5. shipping, guess I was thinking of just the module itself ...sorry.
I'm still waiting on a 5 pack of them
I'm still waiting on a 5 pack of them
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