I've been thinking about removing the chrome on those tougher parts with oven cleaner
edit: may have to get some of this, too
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bras...5-g-lacquer-spray/473713?tandt_rdir=1&aR=true
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Kamry K100
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I've been thinking about removing the chrome on those tougher parts with oven cleaner
edit: may have to get some of this, too
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bras...5-g-lacquer-spray/473713?tandt_rdir=1&aR=true
Great ideas! I was thinking of running the ring across the bench grinder, then polish it up. May look interesting with polished brass on te peaks and chrome in the troughs
wow that chimbus looks perfect on there... I think I know what my first rda will be 
edit- anyone know where to get a replacement "firing" spring? mine is feeling weak and mushy ever since my close call with a battery overheat
edit- anyone know where to get a replacement "firing" spring? mine is feeling weak and mushy ever since my close call with a battery overheat
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something like this ElectronicStix.Com · The ShortStop Mod Fuse (Holocron Labs)
I saw this but it didnt say if it was reusable or not. Any word on that?
Thanks! Reasonable price, reusable and is bipolar. Sounds like its gonna be the winner! Crud...just realized its not in stock...bummer.
I found this again at http://www.myvaporstore.com/ShortStop_by_Holocron_Labs_p/ss-hl.htm with a quick google search and it led me to joes blog then to this. Still on sale from almost a month ago! $6.74
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Picked mine up from Kidney Puncher. It wasn't a kit however, I paid about 40 for it. Worth it for the service and speed. Showed up today
Rocking an Octopus RDA and a transformer driptip from madvapes with an efest 18350 nipple top.
Rocking an Octopus RDA and a transformer driptip from madvapes with an efest 18350 nipple top.
FINALLY de-sleeved. I also sanded down the base, leaving just a hint of the knurling. Just gotta touch up a little bit by the base on the main tube just above the bottom cap.
I also shortened the firing pin and cut both springs which gives it about a 1mm or maybe even less throw on the button. The gap you see on the locking ring there is the total throw distance of the button. I actually shortened it a little too much, so I have to use an upside down button top battery in 18350 shorty to get that very slight extra reach to the button. It works fine with my kick clone or with an 18650 with things right side up. Overall it's much shorter, only a hair taller than an 18650 battery, it also feels a lot less bulky and just a light touch gets it going, yet still locks fine when I want it to with 2 twists of the ring.
... yep. that just about says it all.
Here's a few photos of my K100, along with my other mechs and mods.
You need to adjust the centre pin on the brass 19e that's some big gap.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Yes it IS quite a gap. Taking the top cap off reveals the spring, which appears to be fastened by a small phillips-head screw. I would guess that backing that screw out would lower the center pin, but would also loosen the spring. And that sounds like a bad thing.
I'm somewhat active on the Sigelei #19 thread and I think some people have posted instructions on how to do this but it's kinda beyond my capabilities/level of confidence.
I'm somewhat active on the Sigelei #19 thread and I think some people have posted instructions on how to do this but it's kinda beyond my capabilities/level of confidence.
No mate unscrew the screw the spring will come off then use some needle nose pliers and unscrew the white plastic bit by bit until your Atty sits as flush as then put the spring back on and its done
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
ugghh... Had another short last night that trashed a battery and damaged the end cap got some winders coming in to hold me over until I figure out what I really want. Apparently I am not ready for Mechs at all.
Sent from my ADR6300
got some winders coming in to hold me over until I figure out what I really want. Apparently I am not ready for Mechs at all.Sent from my ADR6300
Thanks! I'll give that a shot. The muscles in my hands and forearms aren't what they used to be.
No mate unscrew the screw the spring will come off then use some needle nose pliers and unscrew the white plastic bit by bit until your Atty sits as flush as then put the spring back on and its done
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
So i keep reading that you should put the safety chip on the positive end of the battery and others say on the negitive, Im so confused. and which side goes to the battery, the post side or the flat side?
hmmm, i am now disappointed in my k100.
i accidentally dropped just the bottom piece with the button, and now it just wont hit right. it like its now pushing about 1/3 of the power it was pre-drop!!
i tried moving the spring around, changing batter and atty, but just not reaching near its potential.
i cant figure out what could be causing this. the drop most of jostled something, but i dont see where or how.
any suggestions?
also, i dont have the k100 drip shield that usually comes with, anywhere i can get one inexpensively?
i accidentally dropped just the bottom piece with the button, and now it just wont hit right. it like its now pushing about 1/3 of the power it was pre-drop!!
i tried moving the spring around, changing batter and atty, but just not reaching near its potential.
i cant figure out what could be causing this. the drop most of jostled something, but i dont see where or how.
any suggestions?
also, i dont have the k100 drip shield that usually comes with, anywhere i can get one inexpensively?
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