That is a seriously nice looking sleeve and cart cover. No one knows where to get this?
Kamry K100
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That is a seriously nice looking sleeve and cart cover. No one knows where to get this?
I just saw this deal on vapor joes for the k100 and k101 if anyone is looking to buy.
http://101vape.com/mechanical/159-genuine-kamry-k100-full-set.html
I prefer the look of the k101 so I picked up one of those and the mvp2. Great price on that too.
Sent from my M8 pro using Tapatalk 4
http://101vape.com/mechanical/159-genuine-kamry-k100-full-set.html
I prefer the look of the k101 so I picked up one of those and the mvp2. Great price on that too.
Sent from my M8 pro using Tapatalk 4
I sanded my k100 pretty successfully. One issue however was the connection pin in the 510 connection where it connects to the topper -- its small and difficult to work in there and I ended up with the surface coming out a bit ragged. Is that cool do you think? I can check at the hardware store for a sanding dremmel bit that's narrow enough to even it out and polish it up ... if it's likely causing a problem or defeating the benefits of sanding in the first place. Thoughts? 'preciate it
sorry if this was already covered
was reading through the thread when I caught wind of this. So the batteries the kit comes with are pretty bad. if you run them on anything with less than 1.8 ohm resistance, you are over-drawing their capacity and risking a fire/explosion. The samsung battery is a bit different, I'll break it down for you here.
Things to note: C value lets you know the max drain you can place a battery under. Lower resistance = more drain (less stuff blocking the flow of electricity). For example your Samsung battery has a C value of 2. (Googled it.) From there, we look at the mAh of the battery, (2600mAh) and multiply that by the C value (2), gives us 5,200 mAh or 5.2 AHs. (m=mili, A=Amp, H= hours). Thats the MAX drain your battery can support.
So, lets look at the atomizer. The one it comes with is 2.2 ohm resistance. The battery is 3.7 volts. Divide 3.7 by 2.2 = roughly 1.7 AH. You're in the clear for the Samsung. The Kamry battery has a C value of 1. (Math again), and your running near the max, so the battery will not perform as well (and get hotter.. possibly (unlikely) burst because it's a crappy Chinese random battery).
You could possibly even get away with using a dual coil build ( 2.5 ohm coils on each side) with the Samsung battery. I wouldn't go below 1.25 ohm resistance (dual coils = divide by two... 2.5ohm each side = 1.25 total) with an ICR battery cause then you're just asking for trouble.
As for those batteries, neither have protection. So if you do build something, screw it into your evic first and make sure there aren't any shorts (or buy a fancy resistance reading gadget).
P.s. I learned all this the hard way, been vapeing on a dual coil (0.7 ohm) Nimbus drip atty using the stock battery. "Almost" vented the battery lol. So since you've bought a mech, my advice would be to buy a battery rated for 10amps or higher and IMR (Not ICR) simply because IMR will vent ooze (during a soft short... hard short will blow up anything) and ICR vents fire (which causes a chain reaction of more fire and then Boom.) I wouldn't bother with protected batteries, if you feel iffy about being unprotected use a short-stop chip or two penny safety tip switch. (they limit amps to around 10... if it goes over, they cut the power).
P.p.s. Pretty sure an eVic won't work with anything below 1 ohm resistance (it'll assume you have a short)
was reading through the thread when I caught wind of this. So the batteries the kit comes with are pretty bad. if you run them on anything with less than 1.8 ohm resistance, you are over-drawing their capacity and risking a fire/explosion. The samsung battery is a bit different, I'll break it down for you here.
Things to note: C value lets you know the max drain you can place a battery under. Lower resistance = more drain (less stuff blocking the flow of electricity). For example your Samsung battery has a C value of 2. (Googled it.) From there, we look at the mAh of the battery, (2600mAh) and multiply that by the C value (2), gives us 5,200 mAh or 5.2 AHs. (m=mili, A=Amp, H= hours). Thats the MAX drain your battery can support.
So, lets look at the atomizer. The one it comes with is 2.2 ohm resistance. The battery is 3.7 volts. Divide 3.7 by 2.2 = roughly 1.7 AH. You're in the clear for the Samsung. The Kamry battery has a C value of 1. (Math again), and your running near the max, so the battery will not perform as well (and get hotter.. possibly (unlikely) burst because it's a crappy Chinese random battery).
You could possibly even get away with using a dual coil build ( 2.5 ohm coils on each side) with the Samsung battery. I wouldn't go below 1.25 ohm resistance (dual coils = divide by two... 2.5ohm each side = 1.25 total) with an ICR battery cause then you're just asking for trouble.
As for those batteries, neither have protection. So if you do build something, screw it into your evic first and make sure there aren't any shorts (or buy a fancy resistance reading gadget).
P.s. I learned all this the hard way, been vapeing on a dual coil (0.7 ohm) Nimbus drip atty using the stock battery. "Almost" vented the battery lol. So since you've bought a mech, my advice would be to buy a battery rated for 10amps or higher and IMR (Not ICR) simply because IMR will vent ooze (during a soft short... hard short will blow up anything) and ICR vents fire (which causes a chain reaction of more fire and then Boom.) I wouldn't bother with protected batteries, if you feel iffy about being unprotected use a short-stop chip or two penny safety tip switch. (they limit amps to around 10... if it goes over, they cut the power).
P.p.s. Pretty sure an eVic won't work with anything below 1 ohm resistance (it'll assume you have a short)
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Thanks for the idea of sanding the contacts. Recently, my K100 started to fired inconsistently..suspected due to the contacts.
To reduce risk of damaging components, I employed a simply stealth method, i.e. just tape the tip of Ego battery with 280grit sand paper, making sure all the sides are smooth-taped with only top exposed with the sandpaper. Next, I sand the inner contacts using twisting action, same with the firing pin, all done within mins with brass perfectly exposed.
What a big difference, my Protank 2 when mounted now fires instantly like crazy with tons of vapour!
To reduce risk of damaging components, I employed a simply stealth method, i.e. just tape the tip of Ego battery with 280grit sand paper, making sure all the sides are smooth-taped with only top exposed with the sandpaper. Next, I sand the inner contacts using twisting action, same with the firing pin, all done within mins with brass perfectly exposed.
What a big difference, my Protank 2 when mounted now fires instantly like crazy with tons of vapour!
So I think I am done with the k100.
First thing was I totally misunderstood the batteries.
Everyone says they are 3.7v batteries.. They are not.
They are 3.6-4.2 (basically)and work as an unregulated battery in the k100
Somehow in all my reading this did not register to me.
So that means you are overvolting most coils that are under 2.2ohms. - I don't know how people can stand vaping at over 3.9v on anything under 2.2 ohm. You just straight up burn the juice and wicks and the taste is not good.
Not even that over hyped not that good bobas bounty (it's not that good just a graham cracker taste) is any good above 3.9v on 1.8ohms.
So if I switch to higher ohms then I am under volting once the battery drops below 4v which only takes about an hour even with the wefts batteries.
Next and probably most frustrating is the 510 connection inside the k100 head.... It's too deep and only two of my tanks will actually touch the connection without having to constantly pull out the post in the coil bottom. They may work at first but later will stop and I have to try and pull the post of the coil again.
The pro tank 2 and protank mini are the only ones long enough and even the protank sometimes doesn't work.
The innokin tanks are too short as is the aspire bdc.
None of these have any issues on my innokin MVP 2.
So in the end the uncontrolled voltage and 510 connector which is too deep just make this thing useless too me unless I want to use my protank minis all the time.. Which I don't like doing because of leaking and they don't hold enough juice.
Sorry kamry this mechanical device (it's not a mod since nothing has been modified to make it what it is) is just a complete waste of time for me.
I hate paying the higher cost for true mods with Vv/vw but I guess that is where I am.
First thing was I totally misunderstood the batteries.
Everyone says they are 3.7v batteries.. They are not.
They are 3.6-4.2 (basically)and work as an unregulated battery in the k100
Somehow in all my reading this did not register to me.
So that means you are overvolting most coils that are under 2.2ohms. - I don't know how people can stand vaping at over 3.9v on anything under 2.2 ohm. You just straight up burn the juice and wicks and the taste is not good.
Not even that over hyped not that good bobas bounty (it's not that good just a graham cracker taste) is any good above 3.9v on 1.8ohms.
So if I switch to higher ohms then I am under volting once the battery drops below 4v which only takes about an hour even with the wefts batteries.
Next and probably most frustrating is the 510 connection inside the k100 head.... It's too deep and only two of my tanks will actually touch the connection without having to constantly pull out the post in the coil bottom. They may work at first but later will stop and I have to try and pull the post of the coil again.
The pro tank 2 and protank mini are the only ones long enough and even the protank sometimes doesn't work.
The innokin tanks are too short as is the aspire bdc.
None of these have any issues on my innokin MVP 2.
So in the end the uncontrolled voltage and 510 connector which is too deep just make this thing useless too me unless I want to use my protank minis all the time.. Which I don't like doing because of leaking and they don't hold enough juice.
Sorry kamry this mechanical device (it's not a mod since nothing has been modified to make it what it is) is just a complete waste of time for me.
I hate paying the higher cost for true mods with Vv/vw but I guess that is where I am.
You have a lot of valid points. Just wanted to chime in and give my 2c about some:
You are right about the unregulated nature of using mechanical 'mods'. (I agree 'mod' doesn't make sense as there is nothing modified about a mass produced device. But once a name is coined, it's hard to fight against it
) Through the normal life of a battery the power output changes by nearly %40 percent! (V*V/R). It is very likely you either overpower or underpower the coil at some point. But most of the time, if your wicking is good, it will be ok.
I am almost exclusively using mechanical 'mods' now. I think it all has to do with how your atomizers are set-up. Unregulated devices are better suited to rebuildable atomizers IMHO as you can tune the variables like resistance, airflow, wicking efficiency, etc. I usually vape around 8-10 watts (calculated, not set of course). But many people seem to be going 15watts and beyond. A well set-up rebuildable atomizer can actually vaporize at high power outputs.
My K100 has been collecting dust since I have other mechanicals that I use. It doesn't have an adjustable 510 pin, hence your issues. However there is a chance you might budge the pin by applying some force from underneath and raising it.
Boba's bounty becomes much better over time (in case you bought it recently). It is also one of the most viscous liquids (all VG) so you might be having wicking issues with your atomizers with this juice. You might want to remove some of the silica wick (to aid in wicking)
Best of luck.
You are right about the unregulated nature of using mechanical 'mods'. (I agree 'mod' doesn't make sense as there is nothing modified about a mass produced device. But once a name is coined, it's hard to fight against it
) Through the normal life of a battery the power output changes by nearly %40 percent! (V*V/R). It is very likely you either overpower or underpower the coil at some point. But most of the time, if your wicking is good, it will be ok. I am almost exclusively using mechanical 'mods' now. I think it all has to do with how your atomizers are set-up. Unregulated devices are better suited to rebuildable atomizers IMHO as you can tune the variables like resistance, airflow, wicking efficiency, etc. I usually vape around 8-10 watts (calculated, not set of course). But many people seem to be going 15watts and beyond. A well set-up rebuildable atomizer can actually vaporize at high power outputs.
My K100 has been collecting dust since I have other mechanicals that I use. It doesn't have an adjustable 510 pin, hence your issues. However there is a chance you might budge the pin by applying some force from underneath and raising it.
Boba's bounty becomes much better over time (in case you bought it recently). It is also one of the most viscous liquids (all VG) so you might be having wicking issues with your atomizers with this juice. You might want to remove some of the silica wick (to aid in wicking)
Best of luck.
Any thoughts of what battery is best for my setup.
I have the k101 and will be getting a rsst to tomorrow will build it to
About 1ohm what battery is best for me? Already have a nice intelligence charger
I have the k101 and will be getting a rsst to tomorrow will build it to
About 1ohm what battery is best for me? Already have a nice intelligence charger
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