Kamry K1000

Status
Not open for further replies.

Ladiekali

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2013
5,631
9,205
Florida
I bought one for my dad, i think it lasted a month, the rubber piece that is in the 510 connector came loose and i guess fried the wires. I am soo upset. He only used it a dozen times maybe.
He was at my house using it and it felt really hot, so i took everything apart and when i took off the tank that oring fell out. And it wouldn't stay back in.

Im torn on buying him another one.
Is this a common problem?
 

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
Have you tried both ways? Positive side up and then positive side down? Im using it positive side up, im afraid i will kill it if i try it upside down :S

In stock form (as a mechanical) battery polarity doesn't matter on the K1000 so either way works, but this changes when electronics are added downstream. That said, I agree with Rickajho and found that battery positive end down is not only the better way to go from a safer switch and short circuit standpoint, but it seems to work just dandy that way with either a flat top or button style battery (I use both styles regularly in mine).
 
Last edited:

Ladiekali

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2013
5,631
9,205
Florida
My take on the "which way goeth the battery" situation:

First, the manual-ette is just... bad. So bad it's hard to take it seriously.

If you look into the bowl the body is plainly connected to the threads and a wire from the spring leads to the center post. There is no practical way this pipe could have ever been wired in any other manner.

Also, if you take a good look at the spring you will see that the center of coil of the spring is wound in a flat spiral. The only reason to do that would be to make contact with the small positive post on a button top battery.

Combining those two factors, if you put a good battery in there according to the instructions "positive up" - like an AW 18350 that only comes in a button top - the switch throw is extremely short, to the point of accidentally misfiring.

AND: if you look at the switch itself and how it makes physical contact with a battery: The outer edge of the switch "braces" against the battery, resting on the battery shrink wrap. There appears to be no insulator between the switch body and the spring mounted center pin. If there is any damage to that wrap when a battery is inserted "positive up" that's any easy scenario to create a dead short at the switch, since both the battery positive center post and the negative outer casing could be exposed to the really flat surfaces of the switch. If the battery goes in positive toward the spring instead that possibility is eliminated.

To me, just looking at the switch construction, the wiring, and the spring construction leads me to believe Kamry screwed up the instructions. It makes more sense that the battery goes in positive down, facing the spring - not the switch. It also makes no sense that this far into the game Kamry would intentionally put something into the marketplace with reverse polarity that flys in the face of industry standards, creating problems such as with the nhaler Silencer in the process.

Wouldn't be the first time I've seen instruction manuals get lost in translation. :facepalm:
:2c:

Could this be why my dads fried? He only used it a couple times, it got hot and i told him stop let me see it, it is fried. The rubber insulater around that 510 connection came off and the center pin fell out.
 

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
Could this be why my dads fried? He only used it a couple times, it got hot and i told him stop let me see it, it is fried. The rubber insulater around that 510 connection came off and the center pin fell out.

It's hard to say without having a close look, but I'd expect to see some witness marks if the batt was shorting directly across @ the switch. Maybe some signs of arcing or something either on the battery itself and/or on the switch bezel etc.

As for the center connector coming apart, I just looked at mine and it's hard to say what's going on in there without a tear-down, so I'm guessing the center piece along with the insulator is just a friction fit inside the fitting that's mounted to the bowl and the red wire from the batt spring is crimped or soldered to it's backside somehow. Perhaps that's where it failed and got things hot there?? Yah, I'm just spitballin here.........I think someone here took theirs apart, I'll look for that post.
 

Ladiekali

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2013
5,631
9,205
Florida
y3ujumah.jpg


That whole center pin fell out, im getting ready to buy a replacement bowl from ebay..... But im nervous.

The batteries themselves were the kamry batts that came with the kit, and I'm using them in my innokin mods with no issues. But maybe I'll get him some aw's.

And just to be clear every one is saying to put the battery in positive side towards the spiral spring? Is that correct?
Been doing a lot of reading. With conflicting info


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
YES - I run mine positive side DOWN towards the spring - button or flat top, it doesn't matter. Again, in stock form the battery polarity DOES NOT matter one bit, we just need the electrons to move across the coil, that's it. FYI - I'm using the stock Kamry branded flat tops and a pair of button top efest purple imr batts in rotation, it's all okedokee so far.

If that where mine and I still had the pieces, I would attempt a repair on that one but a new bowl sounds like a better answer.
 

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
If you decide to get a replacement bowl, I'd be interested in a mini review on that. I'd like to know if the original bowl switch fits the replacement and if everything else appears exactly the same, i.e., the bowl fitting with ports and the center connector etc...
I'm pondering if there is a cloning deal there so maybe some slight variations would be apparent in the replacement bowl - oh wait, perhaps your original pipe was a clone too?? I don't know really and I don't want to add to the hypsteria from Kamry about authorized distributors and serialized pipe kits etc, but maybe there are clones that have a build/design flaw?
 
Last edited:

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
Yeah no tools to repair.

So you dont think having it positive side up would have been the problem?

I'm just speculating so take it with salt....I could see a batt short causing overheating that fails the weakest link first but in my opinion, I think the problem might start at the center connector, maybe it moves around, slides in/out which stresses the wire connection, leading to premature failure and a short right there. And maybe a short there - even an intermittent one - could causes overheating which in turn could loosen the fit between the center connector/insulator/body fitting and yada-yada, doom and gloom results.

EDIT - Something else that popped into my empty head is their choice to use RED wire to connect the batt spring to the center connector - me thinks red means positive side which means + side of the batt DOWN towards the spring - I know they could go with a random wire color there but I'm just sayin' ....
 
Last edited:

Ladiekali

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2013
5,631
9,205
Florida
Well thats not the answer i wanted hahaha, it did say kamry k1000 on the bottom, but i did get it from ebay, seemed like a authentic case.
I am so nervous now lol. I use provari and innokin products, but he likes the pipe look. I dont have the money to get him the $125 pipe mods.
So maybe the real question is how do you tell authentic from fake?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SteamBrake

Full Member
Verified Member
Jun 11, 2014
33
31
Chicagoland
I got mine form ebay also and the case had the scratch-off serial number thingy but that really doesn't mean squat to me or anything with regard to the quality. Being the wood version, mine does not have anything printed on the underside of the bowl and I haven't a clue how to tell differences between 'real' and a 'clone' if there even are any....as far as I'm concerned, they could all be made on the same assembly line and only the 'authorized' ones get the serial number sticker and the higher price to match.
 

Drowzysleeper

Full Member
Jul 22, 2014
25
7
Missouri
I traded my vision spinner and two pt2s for a green k1000 from my buddy. I'm excited the only thing I'm not to happy with is that the bowl is really fated from holding it in his hand so much. What metal is used for the bowl, I don't ah it in my hand yet. I polish aluminum for a living so I might have the first mirror finished k1000
 

Bernard Marx

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Feb 2, 2014
903
745
attic
I love mine. I use it with mostly just VG as a bedtime low-nic. Tons of satisfying vape. It does need something besides the tank that comes with it - I use ProtankII. I did have Airflow but I took it off - it vents from the two holes right near the base very nicely and I like it to be simpler. I had battery trouble and flipped them but then returned to positive up and now it works fine (weird). A 'technician' in a shop told me that he worried that the positive nub might fuse with the spring if it overheated and it was upside down. I customized a nice soft tip because I didn't like the metal feel/taste. I think it makes me look smarter when I vape it.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread