That whole center pin fell out, im getting ready to buy a replacement bowl from ebay..... But im nervous.
The batteries themselves were the kamry batts that came with the kit, and I'm using them in my innokin mods with no issues. But maybe I'll get him some aw's.
And just to be clear every one is saying to put the battery in positive side towards the spiral spring? Is that correct?
Been doing a lot of reading. With conflicting info
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I bought one for my dad, i think it lasted a month, the rubber piece that is in the 510 connector came loose and i guess fried the wires. I am soo upset. He only used it a dozen times maybe.
He was at my house using it and it felt really hot, so i took everything apart and when i took off the tank that oring fell out. And it wouldn't stay back in.
Im torn on buying him another one.
Is this a common problem?
My genuine k1000 lasted about 1 week due to that little center pin grommet.. It appeared to be an o ring because the rubber sleeve split apart from it. It appears to be a very cheaply made rubber.. Almost like that hard crusty rubber that flakes if you pick it.. Totally useless...
So.. After many hours of reading others attempts to fix the k1000. Some drilled out the internals, some disassembled the wiring and rigged up a washer to replace the spring.. I've rebuilt this damn thing 3 times now.. Finally think 3rd times the charm. I will explain as best I can answer attach a few pictures for anyone wanting to revive their shorted out Kamry
So to get this thing apart all you need to do is get your finger nails or something around the center pin on the part that you screw your tank onto. Just give it a pull and it will come out with a wire attached. Just bend it until it snaps off the wire and put it aside. Then with some pliers give the spring or the white plastic grommet a yank and that will pop right out.
So now you should have the empty body (the threaded aluminum? Insert can stay in..) so now you'll want a piece of wire long enough to thread it through the center pin hole and up through the battery compartment like in the picture. Make SURE the white grommet is facing the right side up and over your wire like in the pic because that's the end that your going to re-solder to the bottom of the spring which then will sit in the grommet.
Ok so your going to solder that top end of wire to the spring. I soldered mine to the second spring rung from the bottom so it won't break hopefully after lots of button pressing. Try and solder it straight so the joint won't need to bend once you start yanking on the other end of the wire. Now the spring will pop right into the plastic grommet groove and you can pull the wire coming out of the center pin hole until the spring/grommet fall down in the body. Then I just used my finger to pop the grommet in place. It will click and be locked in somewhat snug. Use the back of a pen if your fingers are to big. I used a small finger lol
Okay now... IF your little white rubber piece is intact in that little center pin hole.. Great.. Make sure it's not cracked or split.. This will cause another short if the pin is touching that connector. My little rubber thing split and became useless... Where to get another one of these rubber things.. Probably nowhere lol...
Sooo after a few days of scratching my head and trying various tape methods to replace that rubber piece with no success... All the tape would get cut and make connection when tank was screwed on. I was looking at one of my old coils out of my kanger evod2 and noticed what I thought was a tiny oring on the bottom.. Took it apart and it was actually a little grommet! a near perfect fit into the hole!
I'll put a picture of this below here you can see the coil and white rubber part I salvaged from it on the black tape. You'll notice how snug it fits on my reassembled pipe body next to it. But basically all you need to do is take that center pin you snaped off the wire. First slide the new grommet (if your needs replacing) over the wire with the thicker side facing to the outside over the wire. Now solder that center pin back onto the wire nice and straight and wrap up any exposed wire below the pin with some electric tape. now carefully slip the rubber grommet up the wire and over the pin so that the rim of the grommet is just behind the lip on the pin. Slowly push the grommet covered pin into the hole and I had to poke the wire inside so that it didn't pop into the battery chamber to much and your done!! It should look like mine in the pic below.. So far this is working like a champ!
Remember your pin can't make contact with the metal connector.. Inspect the rim of the grommet make sure it's sammiched in between the metals and it should work!.
Also keep in mind the spring in these k1000's are hot springs so when the pipe shorts out the spring will melt when it reaches a certain temperature in order to break the connection so you don't have a battery fire or explosion.. If you notice the button getting hot.. Unscrew asap and pop the battery out.. I've had to do this a few times while experimenting but haven't melted the spring yet.. Lol if this happens I'm not sure where you can find a new one.. I wouldn't use a regular spring though incase you have a short.
Hope this helps anyone looking to fix their pipe! FYI I had no experience with electrical soldering before this project.. Don't let it scare ya away.. A soldering iron and solder is like $10 and a local vape shop will sell the kanger evod2 coils.. (not rebuildable ones but the regular coils) if you need that rubber piece. They may even have some old garbage ones around
