Kanger Dripbox 160 TC

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TheWestPole

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Really?! Hrm... I have the black Dripbox 60w and the silver 160, and the DT is definitely different texture-wise. :(

I'm not certain how clear the photo makes it. But basically the one on the left is the original 60w drip tip. It has a rougher texture.

Might just be there's 2 different molds making these parts, one with a bit more texture. Luck of the draw.
 

VladK16

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BF99 Noname Nopity RDA Drip Tip Vape Atomizer 1:1 by SJMY

Looks like it's actually $27 now that I properly converted HUF to USD.

It "appears" that the accessories pic shows a bf pin, but didn't see anything in the description that states that. If not, then you can always order a BF pin or attempt to drill out one yourself. I know that the NoPity clones offered on 3fvape and FT don't include the BF pin.

Wondering if you have one of the newer drip tips that the Dripbox 2 is showing (still waiting for that thing to show up for sale here in the states!). Possible that the newer produced DB160s come with the new DTs.

As far as the leaking on the Tsunami 24, you REALLY have to pay attention how you squonk it. If you do that, then you won't have any leaking issues. I'd rather use an rda that I don't have to worry about it leaking no matter how I squonk it ... but that's just me.
 
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zoiDman

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TheWestPole

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zoiDman

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That's what I did. The two extra pins will come in handy if you really love the thing. ;)

You Sold me with that Pic of a Single, Ginormous Coil.

To be Honest. I Think I have Ascended to Single Coil Nirvana with my NarDa. But I do like trying New Stuff. And if I Don't Like it, I PIF it to people I know who Drip.
 

zoiDman

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Oh, that's great to hear. The one I ordered was shipped on 8/16. Should get it pretty soon. What build are you liking on yours?

My go to build for a DripBox 60W is a .6 Ohm 3mm 26ga NiChrome 80 Coil. But lately, I have been doing a 3mm coil with 26ga 316L @ .35 Ohms or so.

Both work Very Well if you are into Flavor.

---

BTW - One Trick I found to building on the NarDa is to remove the Negative Screw when you Mount the Coil. It makes it Easier if you have the Coil on a Mandrel. Then put the Negative Screw back in and capture the Negative Leg around it.

When it All Mounted, I use 1.5mm Mandrel to lift the Coil so the Airflow is hitting the Bottom Half of the Coil. And the Coil is on a slight Diagonal.

BTW2 - If yours come with Slotted Screws, ditch them ASAP. Phillips Heads are the Only way to go.
 

TheWestPole

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My go to build for a DripBox 60W is a .6 Ohm 3mm 26ga NiChrome 80 Coil. But lately, I have been doing a 3mm coil with 26ga 316L @ .35 Ohms or so.

Both work Very Well if you are into Flavor.

---

BTW - One Trick I found to building on the NarDa is to remove the Negative Screw when you Mount the Coil. It makes it Easier if you have the Coil on a Mandrel. Then put the Negative Screw back in and capture the Negative Leg around it.

When it All Mounted, I use 1.5mm Mandrel to lift the Coil so the Airflow is hitting the Bottom Half of the Coil. And the Coil is on a slight Diagonal.

BTW2 - If yours come with Slotted Screws, ditch them ASAP. Phillips Heads are the Only way to go.

That's around my ohm range on singles as well. Good tip about removing one screw. :thumb: I might also do my usual tweak with wire-under-screw type posts. Countersink the deck a bit around the threads under the screw heads to trap the wire better. Been doing that since kayfun days.
 
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zoiDman

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That's around my ohm range on singles as well. Good tip about removing one screw. :thumb: I might also do my usual tweak with wire-under-screw type posts. Countersink the deck a bit around the threads under the screw heads to trap the wire better. Been doing that since Kayfun days.

The Screws do a Pretty Good job of trapping a wire due to the Large Head.

Another thing you can do with the NarDa is to Rotate the Positive Post and have the Posts at the 10 and 2 Position. I did this for awhile. Works Good. But I like Symmetry.

It just Looks Nicer.
 
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Roadtrip635

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Lately, I've been using the Aspire Quad-Plex, BF RDA on my DB160. It's actually a 4 in 1 tank system, a Nauti X, RDTA, RDA and BF RDA. I'm really liking it as a BF RDA, comes with a removable and adjustable BF pin and two different barrels. One has airflow at coil height and the other has top airflow. The top AFC barrel is a tad more restricted than the side AFC, but it's about impossible to over-squonk. If you manage to over-squonk the top AFC, then you have no business using a squonker...lol

The flavor has been really good. The top AFC barrel has an inner sleeve that redirects the air down to the coils, works pretty well. I normally DTL, but the AFC can be closed down and gets a real smooth MTL draw as well.

Here's a couple pics. The pic has it on my DB60, but I've been using it on my DB160 as well. It's also a nice regular RDA too.

quad3_zpsbtmhurv8.jpg
quad6_zpsikz6flyu.jpg

quad10_zpsxlvjpvwf.jpg
 

JonnyWhatshisface

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It "appears" that the accessories pic shows a bf pin, but didn't see anything in the description that states that. If not, then you can always order a BF pin or attempt to drill out one yourself. I know that the NoPity clones offered on 3fvape and FT don't include the BF pin.
In the item name, BF99. :)

However, the one that zoiDman showed for $8.98 appears to be the SAME exact one, just without the BF pin. If you're in the US, you may be better going that route. lol
 

JonnyWhatshisface

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I'd definitely take this route if I were still in the states. :( Unfortunately, the shipping will end up being $25-$40 just to get it in here...

On the other hand, the one I linked you to, I can get for $17 and get free shipping, which makes it a little more appealing (contacted the seller).

I find that since I've moved to Hungary, it's a LOT more expensive to get ahold of things like this here.
 

JonnyWhatshisface

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I'd definitely take this route if I were still in the states. :( Unfortunately, the shipping will end up being $25-$40 just to get it in here...

On the other hand, the one I linked you to, I can get for $17 and get free shipping, which makes it a little more appealing (contacted the seller).

I find that since I've moved to Hungary, it's a LOT more expensive to get ahold of things like this here.
Hmm... I take this back. THANK YOU for that link, zoiDman. I just realized they do free world-wide shipping!!! :) :) :)
 
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zoiDman

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I'd definitely take this route if I were still in the states. :( Unfortunately, the shipping will end up being $25-$40 just to get it in here...

On the other hand, the one I linked you to, I can get for $17 and get free shipping, which makes it a little more appealing (contacted the seller).

I find that since I've moved to Hungary, it's a LOT more expensive to get ahold of things like this here.

Yeah... Shipping always has to be Considered.

Not Bagging on e-Bay. Because I have gotten Too Many Great Deals to even count. And have Sold things that there would have been No Way to sell otherwise.

But One Problem is it is sometimes Hard to get a Feel for Customer Reviews on a Specific Item.
 
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JonnyWhatshisface

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Yeah... Shipping always has to be Considered.

Not Bagging on e-Bay. Because I have gotten Too Many Great Deals to even count. And have Sold things that there would have been No Way to sell otherwise.

But One Problem is it is sometimes Hard to get a Feel for Customer Reviews on a Specific Item.
How is the quality with regards to clones vs 'authentic' in reality? I mean, i understand that we get what we pay for... But when you think about it, this is simple metal casting and not quite like the difference between purchasing a fake rolex with a japanese movement versus a real rolex with a 27 jewel movement. I'd imagine SOME aspects of QA are missing - but overall, from a functionality perspective - are most clones equally as good as the original when considering 1:1's ?
 

zoiDman

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How is the quality with regards to clones vs 'authentic' in reality? ...

No Real Way to answer a Question like that. Because the Quality of Clones varies just like the Quality of Authentic's do. And you can really Only compare the Quality of One Specific Clone to the Quality of it's Authentic Counterpart.

There's No Way to compare Clones in General with Authentic's in General.

I've never used/seen a Authentic NarDa. So I have Nothing to compare what I use to. But if someone handed me the Last NarDa Clone that I bought, and Didn't tell me it was a Clone or an Authentic, I would say that it was Very Good Quality/Finish.
 
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