Kanger Pro Tank – Rebuilding Help

Discussion in 'Rebuildable Atomizer Systems' started by BurntHit, Jul 14, 2013.

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  1. BurntHit

    BurntHit Full Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2013
    Location:
    USA
    I’m looking for a little help or tips for rebuilding the Protank.

    I bought some 2mm and 3mm silica wick.
    32ga, 28ga, and .6mm x .1mm kanthal ribbon (resistance around 7.8ohm/ft ~ same as 30 ga)

    The problem I am running into is the past two coils I built all came out with a burnt rubber taste if I take a decent drag allowing the coil to heat up… I suspect the taste is coming from the rubber insulator grommet which separates the positive and negative leads in the head.

    Both heads were built with 3mm wick folder over on top of itself (removing the need for flavor wicks). I don’t think I have any wicking issues, and I don’t get any tank flooding.

    Coil 1 = 32ga Kanthal – Fluke DMM puts it at 1.7 ohms
    Coil 2 = .6mm ribbon – Fluke DMM puts it at 1.2 ohms

    I really the Protank, but I’m sure my coils and wick setup isn’t optimal. Any tips to fix that off putting rubber taste?
     
  2. Innocuous

    Innocuous Super Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2013
    Location:
    Washington (the desert)
    Double the leads, (halving resistance), to the grommets. Or, you can use NR wire for the leads/legs.
     
  3. BurntHit

    BurntHit Full Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2013
    Location:
    USA
    NR wire as in non-resistive wire?

    Not a bad idea doubling the leads... I suspect that coil was glowing towards the lead area as I saw burn marks when I took it apart. Thanks for the recommendation.

    Time to make another coil.
     
  4. dr g

    dr g Moved On Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Location:
    Paradise
    yup it's the grommet. god that taste is awful.

    one other thing you can do is to "circumcise" the grommet (lol) and cut it back. that keeps the top of it further away from the coil and prevents it from heating up even if you don't have "hot legs" ... depending on how much power you are pushing I have found that it could burn the grommet even with doubled legs.

    but the doubled legs thing is currently my solution. what I do is prepare the twisted ends of a piece of kanthal before wrapping. leave a length of wire in the middle for the coil. with 30 gauge I get about 1 ohm from just under 1". fires at 20 watts on the DNA 20 and keeps up, 3mm main wick and no or just a tiny sliver of flavor wick.
     
  5. BurntHit

    BurntHit Full Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2013
    Location:
    USA
    The problem sure was the hot legs…

    I made a new coil… I guess you can consider it a microcoil since I was able to cram .6mm ribbon kanthal into the prohead at 1.6 ohms.

    I didn’t double up on the leads this time around, but I did take the time to position the legs better.

    Nice smooth vape, no burnt taste. The base of the coil dies seem to warm up pretty quick but it functions well.

    Dr g, DNA 20 will be my next PCB, did you buy it in a MOD or make one? PM me some details!
     
  6. dr g

    dr g Moved On Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Location:
    Paradise
    I hear with microcoils (or equivalent) it really helps to avoid the hot legs. How much power are you pumping through?

    I built my own, wrote it up here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8-my-take-fistpack-dna-20d-powered-wip-2.html
    Right now running a Panasonic NCR18650PD which is really great, and I ended up replacing the connector with an Ego connector, which I like a lot better. Can run Evods directly :D
     
  7. saltydog

    saltydog Full Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2010
    Location:
    tennessee
    I have been having the same problem. Made probably 4 different builds and the grommet has scorch marks on it.
     
  8. classwife

    classwife Ask The Vets Manager
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    Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from the Modding Forum - Atomizer Mods :)
     
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