Kanger Subox Mini Dual Coil RBA build.

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Clifton

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Aug 2, 2015
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Hi guys. This is my first thread/post and I would like to share my build on my Kanger subox Mini rba. Please tell me what you think and how I can improve this set up.

It's been working great but when I go above 35 watts, I start getting dry hits. How can I improve this to vape on higher wattage?

I use 70% VG and 30% PG.

A little more about the build, it's a 0.4ohm coil with 28g kanthal wrapped 5 rounds around 2.5mm screw.

I usually vape around 19 to 25 watts. Occasionally I go to 30 just for kicks and it's amazing vapour and flavour. Above 35 is just dry, burnt and URGGGGHHH.

TL;DR, just tell me if you like what you see
 

Baditude

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Apr 8, 2012
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View attachment 481449 View attachment 481448

Hi guys. This is my first thread/post and I would like to share my build on my Kanger Subox Mini RBA. Please tell me what you think and how I can improve this set up.

It's been working great but when I go above 35 watts, I start getting dry hits. How can I improve this to vape on higher wattage?

I use 70% VG and 30% PG.

A little more about the build, it's a 0.4ohm coil with 28g kanthal wrapped 5 rounds around 2.5mm screw.

I usually vape around 19 to 25 watts. Occasionally I go to 30 just for kicks and it's amazing vapour and flavour. Above 35 is just dry, burnt and URGGGGHHH.

TL;DR, just tell me if you like what you see
Just curious ... if you're getting a great vape under 35 watts, why do you insist on vaping at a higher wattage? Higher wattage does not necessarily improve the vape.

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Having said that, you could try lowering the height of your coils, closer to the deck for a cooler vape.

Dry burnt hits are generally due to inadequate wicking or inadequate airflow. It's hard to tell from you pics, but it looks like you are using the right amount of cotton IMHO. Trying to stuff too much cotton through the coil can strangulate the cotton fibers and decreasing their wicking capability. I use 3.0 mm coils, simply because its easier to install more cotton into the coils. I don't use a sub-ox mini, so I'm not familiar if it has adjustable air flow. More airflow allows higher wattage without dry hits.

Your coils could be wrapped more tighter to appear more symmetrical loop to loop, but that's being nit picky.
 
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Clifton

Full Member
Aug 2, 2015
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6
30
Thanks for the feedback Baditude. This is actually my first time trying the RBA section, got ambitious and did a dual coil. Well I don't WANT to vape on higher wattage but so far as I go higher, it gets more flavourful and more vapour which I enjoy occasionally for the kick. I am trying to find out where the limit is so I would like to know if there is even supposed to be a limit? Am I doing something wrong that it gets a dry/burnt when it reaches 35 watts? Or are some builds meant to be.

Also, currently I am using 70vg 30pg so when I wick, I make sure the cotton doesn't cover the juice channels and it works well. When I vape 50vg 50pg, should I change the wicking with more cotton and cover the juice channels?

Thanks guys, I would appreciate any input. I'm only a 3 week old vaper :p
 

MagicJosh

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Feb 21, 2015
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Boston, MA, USA
View attachment 481449 View attachment 481448

Hi guys. This is my first thread/post and I would like to share my build on my Kanger Subox Mini RBA. Please tell me what you think and how I can improve this set up.

It's been working great but when I go above 35 watts, I start getting dry hits. How can I improve this to vape on higher wattage?

I use 70% VG and 30% PG.

A little more about the build, it's a 0.4ohm coil with 28g kanthal wrapped 5 rounds around 2.5mm screw.

I usually vape around 19 to 25 watts. Occasionally I go to 30 just for kicks and it's amazing vapour and flavour. Above 35 is just dry, burnt and URGGGGHHH.

TL;DR, just tell me if you like what you see
I gotts ta try this. Pretty sick build
 

WileE

Full Member
Aug 12, 2015
65
146
USA east coast
Clifton - The Sub tank RBA has a reputation for poor wicking. If you compare it to the replaceable heads you'll notice the holes are missing from the sides of the sleeve. The wicking channels are abysmally small when you screw the sleeve on. For single coils centered over the air hole this is easily fixed by screwing the sleeve down on the build deck and marking the channel locations on the sleeve (they are perpendicular to the screw posts). Now drill a 5/64 hole through the sleeve about centered in height. When you screw the sleeve back on it will always index back to the same location (just don't flip it upside down). Your wick doesn't need to be stuffed in the holes; just right next to them. It will wick like a champ & not leak. I've done 4 like this so far. In your case with the dual coils I would instead drill 4 x 1/16" holes. Looking down from top, with wick channels at 12 & 6 oclock drill the 4 holes at 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, & 10:30. Make sure the holes are not in the threaded portion of the sleeve. Now you'll have a hole in-front of each wick tail. The down side is that if you do the 4 holes your pretty much committed to dual coil builds though.
 

Clifton

Full Member
Aug 2, 2015
17
6
30
wilee, i appreciate your input. but the new subox mini rba sleeve has 2 juice holes already just like the stock occs hahaha
heres a pic for reference too. so i doubt i'd be needing to drill anymore holes in them. as for my current wicking, i've adjusted just a little bit where the wick touches around the juice holes in a U shape, but not directly covering it. it's wicking amazing now and i'm going up to 45 watts without dry hits. amazing!
 

RandyF

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Apr 1, 2013
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ou2mame i've had the original single coil above the airhole and i was having spitting issues which i was struggling to solve. so now that the coils are not under the drip tip, when it does spit (very rarely almost never), i won't get juice in my mouth. is this reason good enough, what do you recommend?
I have been using the STm for quite a while. When I have spitting issues I can usually attribute it to too much cotton, or not enough, which causes over-saturation. You can usually tell if your wick is too wet when the juice you get in your mouth isn't burning you. I just had to re-build mine last night because I used a bit too much cotton when I re-built it earlier in the day. After the 2nd re-build, zero spitting. I also build spaced coils, which IMO, lessens (hot) spitting.
 

itskohler

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Jan 16, 2014
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I also build spaced coils, which IMO, lessens (hot) spitting.
This is very true, at least until the build "breaks in". All of my contact coils will hiss and spit no matter what I do. I just keep putting juice on, dry fire it, more juice, longer dry fires, then it settles in and stops spitting.
 
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