Kanger Subtank RBA getting stuck
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Is it possible that youre over tightening the base when you fill it....does the base get hot when you vape.....if it does the metal might be expanding slightly causing the threads to lock up.....next time run the tank under cold water before trying to unscrew the base
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I found it hard to remove the barrel sleeve from the subtank mini until I found a few tricks here in the forums which helped me tremendously. Next time you unscrew the RBA from the base, unscrew the bottom 510 pin a bit until it's loose, careful not to lose it. The put a fingernail or thumbnail in one of the small groves on the bottom of the barrel where the juice channels are, with your other hand gently unscrew the barrel. Too much pressure when trying to unscrew it just seems to make it worse, seems loosening the 510 pin does the trick for me. Now that I've done it a few times it's super easy to remove the barrel so I can work on the RBA deck whenever needed. Hope this helps
that's an example of why one needs to have a 5 or 10pack of rba heads.
If you only have 1 rba head, it defeats most of the benefit of being able to swap out the head with a head that's already prepped.
If you only have 1 rba head, it defeats most of the benefit of being able to swap out the head with a head that's already prepped.
The Big Problem with the RBA Design is that the RBA is Polished Smooth. So it is Difficult to Tighten the RBA Top Cover without Tightening the Entire RBA Section into the Airflow Base.
Same with trying to Unscrew things.
One thing that can Help is to Wrap a Fat Rubber Band around the RBA Barrel to help your Grip it Better. Or to Wear Rubber Gloves or Rubber Finger Cots.
That has been my only concern with the Subtank. For an FYI, you can still change the cotton without taking off the middle tube. I do that all the time because of the issue.
The barrel tricky at first you can use a very light twist and it usually comes apart. I use to try and bull it apart and it wouldnt budge. And just tighten it lightly snug i only had it get stuck on center tube once and that was my fault i left it loose.
BTW - When I first got my Subtank, I had All of the Problems the OP mentioned. And it seemed like it was a Hassle to Unscrew the individual parts of the RBA Section.
But after a little time, things got Much Better.
The Reason I think was because the threads are Very Sharp straight out of the box. But after being Screwed/Unscrewed a little, they Loosen Up slightly.
But after a little time, things got Much Better.
The Reason I think was because the threads are Very Sharp straight out of the box. But after being Screwed/Unscrewed a little, they Loosen Up slightly.
they are hard to find. Local vape shops dont want to get them. Or cant get them. I dont like buying kanger anything over the internet. Its now a spare tank. Just got the Lemo2.
Mine sticks also. And I say bad words to it while using pliers.
Out of curiosity, does the RBA section perform any better than the pre-build coils that come with it? I just picked up a subtank mini and am using the coil that came with it and it is performing great in my opinion and the local B&M I picked it up at sells the Kanger coils for it.
Do you mean the RBA Section verses the OCC Heads?
If so, Hell Yes.
The OCC Heads that come with Suntank Mini (both the .5 and the 1.2 Ohms) work Good. But the RBA Section works Fantastic.
To be honest the rba section rocks apart from the issues already discussed. I did slightly modify mine to increase depth of the channels to increase the liquid feed rate. Before i did this i would have dry hits and man did this help the rba section a ton. I don't even use stock coils in my subtank just the rba plus it will cost you less without having to replace those stock coils.
I've yet to find to find another sub ohm tank that even comes close to the flavor i get from the sub tank.
I've yet to find to find another sub ohm tank that even comes close to the flavor i get from the sub tank.
This may sound counter-intuitive but, the next time you find your sleeve stubbornly refusing to unscrew from the RBA base, try using the lowest amount of torque you can manage to unscrew it. I think the threads have an inherent slop to them that causes them to bind when attempting to unscrew the sleeve. The more torque you use, the tighter it gets. Try being as gentle as possible with it. This works 7 out of 10 times form me and YMMV.
I will agree the less you force it the better don't squeeze it to much.
I use hot water to expand it so to speak and it works well for me
I use hot water to expand it so to speak and it works well for me
its because the metal sleeve is thin and when you squeeze from two sides it compresses; if you wrap something like a rubber band around it and pull on the rubber band, you get a more even torque
naturally the local vape shops would rather you keep buying a new pack of coils every month instead of selling you a 5 or 10 pack of rba coils that are much easier to rebuild and could keep you running for years maybe life.
$6.73 Authentic KangerTech SUBTANK Mini RBA Coil Head - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I ordered 10; still not shipped yet; not cheap either - costs $7 apiece
Use light pressure, there are certain threads that lock up like a Chinese handcuff. Meaning they stick if lots of force is used, and move freely if you lightly (very lightly) start unscrewing. Some tube mech switches have this thing going so you can unlock and lock your button without removing the housing from the tube itself.
I guarantee this is your problem if you haven't damaged it by now.
I guarantee this is your problem if you haven't damaged it by now.
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