kangertech KBOX-70 error TEMP HIGH

[mh1972]

Hi, I have had this mod for over a year and some e-liquid got down deep into where you put
the tank on. I am wondering if it ruined the battery. Does anyone know if I can take that apart
and fix it? Just curious if anyone has had luck. I have searched around and have not found anything
positive. Most say junk it.
anyway, thanks for any info, even if it is to junk it lol

 

[bombastinator]

I usually just wipe out the female thread with a wad of kleenex, or maybe a qtip. You are getting high temp errors and you are assuming the mod is to blame rather than the atty I take it?

 

[mh1972]

I usually just wipe out the female thread with a wad of kleenex, or maybe a qtip. You are getting high temp errors and you are assuming the mod is to blame rather than the atty I take it?

thanks for the info.
I have forgotten the names of the parts lol. I tried to replace the atomizer(the metal rod with different ohms) I am not sure if that is what it is called. Still got same error.
I am not sure what is wrong, by the female thread, is that at the very bottom of the tank?
Do you use anything special to clean it with?
I have been off the forum for a long time, I have forgotten so much.
I will try that!

 

[bombastinator]

thanks for the info.
I have forgotten the names of the parts lol. I tried to replace the atomizer(the metal rod with different ohms) I am not sure if that is what it is called. Still got same error.
I am not sure what is wrong, by the female thread, is that at the very bottom of the tank?
Do you use anything special to clean it with?
I have been off the forum for a long time, I have forgotten so much.
I will try that!

No worries . Vaping terminology is weird, random, and confusing.

The metal thing with the ohm markings = the coil cartridge, carto, or sometimes just the coil (though the last is a bit misleading)

The thing that holds the coil cartridge that you put juice in = atomizer/tank/RTA/atty

The thing with the battery in it that has a button = mod

The stumpy screw and screw hole the atty connects to the mod with = 510 connector

Female 510 connector = the hole in the top of the mod

Male 510 connector = the stumpy screw in the bottom of the atty

Now that that's out of the way, what part of your device got too much juice in it?

 

[mh1972]

No worries . Vaping terminology is weird, random, and confusing.

The metal thing with the ohm markings = the coil cartridge, carto, or sometimes just the coil (though the last is a bit misleading)

The thing that holds the coil cartridge that you put juice in = atomizer/tank/RTA/atty

The thing with the battery in it that has a button = mod

The stumpy screw and screw hole the atty connects to the mod with = 510 connector

Female 510 connector = the hole in the top of the mod

Male 510 connector = the stumpy screw in the bottom of the atty

Now that that's out of the way, what part of your device got too much juice in it?

Sometimes it leaks into the very bottom of the tank if its not sitting straight up. If it gets on its side it will leak
into the bottom of the tank where you can slide to adjust your draw.
Also when I go to take the top off to refill with liquid sometimes the coil comes out with it, and dumps
liquid all in the bottom.
So probably both the male and female connectors.
thanks for the terminology lesson
I don't have the user manual anymore to change it to volts, not sure if that would help.
it is in wattage mode right now, usually around 40w.
I think I have a .2 and .4 ohm coil

 

[bombastinator]

OK
the tank sounds like a piece of crud. It might just have bad gaskets or be loose but it doesnt sound like youre up to fixing those problems yourself and they're not worth having someone else fix them because tanks are fairly cheap. Your mod is probably still OK. they're made to put up with tank leakage. I support the "just buy a different tank" theory if that was what they were saying. You almost certainly do not also need a new mod.

if i knew what model the tank and mod were I could tell you more. if you can send pix of them i might be able to tell you what they are.

 

[mh1972]

It is a Aspire Cleito tank, I will link a picture. The mod is a kangertech kbox-70. I bought it from a local vape shop, so not
sure if is included with the mod usually.
Aspire Cleito Tank
Mine is the silver one there.
That would be great to be use it just by replacing tank.
What would you recommend for a kbox-70?

 

[mh1972]

Hey the coils are aspire clieto also, the .4ohm was unused. I don't see any numbers for serial numbers or anything
One says 40-60watt.
Other is 55-70
I have been using it at 40-45 watt

 

[bombastinator]

It is a Aspire Cleito tank, I will link a picture. The mod is a kangertech kbox-70. I bought it from a local vape shop, so not
sure if is included with the mod usually.
Aspire Cleito Tank
Mine is the silver one there.
That would be great to be use it just by replacing tank.
What would you recommend for a kbox-70?

I'm a hand builder myself and don't use drop in coil cartridges so my knowledge there is limited.
You sound like a DL (direct lung) type vaper. I've heard good things about the unwell crown3 and the big baby beast but have no direct experience. Your kanger 70 will eventually go bad simply because it's a sealed battery mod but it doesn't seem to me like that has happened yet.
When you get a new atty you can test it and see if the mod is bad too. Attys shouldn't leak like that though so regardless that bit needs a replacement

 

[pfaber11]

I've had a Kbox 70 for over a year and still going strong. Never had it over heat. Should last at least a year if taken care of. Mines got a aspire Atlantis on top with a 0.3 ohm coil . Good luck.

 

[bombastinator]

I've had a Kbox 70 for over a year and still going strong. Never had it over heat. Should last at least a year if taken care of. Mines got a aspire Atlantis on top with a 0.3 ohm coil . Good luck.

sealed battery life depends heavily on how much you use it, and how long the microUSB2 port lasts before it breaks. If you're careful and lucky you can wear the battery out before the port, but its rare. You seem to be doing quite well. my kbox and eleaf mini both lasted barely 3 weeks.

 

[pfaber11]

Three weeks that would of upset me. I'm using mine right now. Hopefully it'll still be working a while yet. Got it in July 2016.

 

[pfaber11]

I've got an mvp2 that's 2 years 8 months old. It's a bit battered and faded but still working.

 

[bombastinator]

Three weeks that would of upset me. I'm using mine right now. Hopefully it'll still be working a while yet. Got it in July 2016.

yeah. it upset me enough i quit using sealed battery mods. You seem to be doing quite well though

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

Hi, I have had this mod for over a year and some e-liquid got down deep into where you put
the tank on. I am wondering if it ruined the battery. Does anyone know if I can take that apart
and fix it? Just curious if anyone has had luck. I have searched around and have not found anything
positive. Most say junk it.
anyway, thanks for any info, even if it is to junk it lol

Always try to inspect the 510 when using anything leaky. As Bomb said earlier a qtip or try taking a pointed, tightly twisted end of paper towel and dabbing around the base of the 510, around the pin. You'ld think they'd build up the protection there since a user "shouldn't access" the internal battery.
Have you tried any other tank or maybe rda. Know a fellow vaper?

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

Also, When do you get this error high temp error? At startup screen or right when you try to "fire"? What settings are you running.

 

[Hawise]

I usually just wipe out the female thread with a wad of kleenex, or maybe a qtip. You are getting high temp errors and you are assuming the mod is to blame rather than the atty I take it?

I'm pretty sure it is the mod and not the tank. I couldn't find a manual for the specific product, but another Kanger manual said "Temp High" meant the battery/control board was overheating, not the coil.

@mh1972, is the mod hot to the touch when you get the error message? If it is, then the battery's probably toast. If it isn't, then it's more likely the control board has gone wonky. Either way, it doesn't look good. Is it still under warranty?