My last thread was rebuilding the newer Kangertech vertical coils, but the newer coil body's don't allow for a large diameter coil thatI like to build ( 4.8mm ) . And the wick dosen't fit as loosely as I like.
Cotton placed loosely around the coil seems to be the trick for wicking thick juices with no dry hits.
Here is a gutted OCC coil head with the top removed.
This is done easily with two pliers ( I wrap electrical tape on the pliers teeth )
I slight twisting and pulling and it separates quickly.
22ga. Kanthal with 5 wraps on a 4.8mm post, ( masonry drill bit ) ,, and a half sheet of cotton ( separated ),> cut 3/8" wide.
Sometimes I'll do a micro coil ( Heating and Squeezing ), this time I didn't. Just wrap the whole cotton strip around. Under the Negative lead, than over till strip is completely wrapped.
I keep the coil on the drill bit when setting it into the coil head,,,, SORT OF LOOSELY. Place it down into the coil body far enough so it don't short out when the top is installed. I use the smallest flat head screw driver to push it down/off the drill bit, pushing on the wick.
The 4.8mm masonry bit makes for wide coil with great air flow, ( Three X's greater than a stock horizontal coil and wick. )
( We all know how the connections are made at the coil base, so I'll skip it to..........>>>>
I start the top back on as best as I could by hand, then work it on tight with pliers squeezing at each corner... If it's not perfectly squared off with the coil base after it's pressed on,,,, turn while pressing together with two pliers.
Be careful not to bang the top back on while placing the coil ( positive post ) on a table, as I have broke off the air flow bridge when hammering the top back on. ( That sucked as the re-build was 95% complete { THEN } 100% USELESS. )
When all is complete, you should have a .7 to .8 ohm coil.
( My iStick 50 reads it at 6 ohm )
If you find the coil not reading right or showing a short, It's probably the positive leed from the coil shorting out.
With the small flat head screw driver, Push / Bend the positive wire through the air flow vents. > Screw the coil into a base and check the ohms again.
Took me a few times to get the hang of it, but now I'm a PRO,, lol.
Hope this helps for any one who's into the re-building hobby part of vaping.
As well,,, these 4.8mm vertical rebuilds wick thicker juice easier and have better air flow than the stock OCC coils.
Cotton placed loosely around the coil seems to be the trick for wicking thick juices with no dry hits.
This is done easily with two pliers ( I wrap electrical tape on the pliers teeth )
I slight twisting and pulling and it separates quickly.
Sometimes I'll do a micro coil ( Heating and Squeezing ), this time I didn't. Just wrap the whole cotton strip around. Under the Negative lead, than over till strip is completely wrapped.
I start the top back on as best as I could by hand, then work it on tight with pliers squeezing at each corner... If it's not perfectly squared off with the coil base after it's pressed on,,,, turn while pressing together with two pliers.
Be careful not to bang the top back on while placing the coil ( positive post ) on a table, as I have broke off the air flow bridge when hammering the top back on. ( That sucked as the re-build was 95% complete { THEN } 100% USELESS. )
( My iStick 50 reads it at 6 ohm )
With the small flat head screw driver, Push / Bend the positive wire through the air flow vents. > Screw the coil into a base and check the ohms again.
Took me a few times to get the hang of it, but now I'm a PRO,, lol.
Hope this helps for any one who's into the re-building hobby part of vaping.
As well,,, these 4.8mm vertical rebuilds wick thicker juice easier and have better air flow than the stock OCC coils.
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