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oplholik

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Ec!g

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No plug, used my finger over the drip tip hole, that lil bubble is all the air left in the tank (laid on its side) and it's from the air inside the center shaft. No leaks at the tip, a tiny tiny bit came out through the air hole at the bottom just after reassembly. Wiped and no more came out.

152d554e1a2773a517fe97905eaa860f.jpg


On first try I'd say leave a little more room inside the tank to create a better vacuum action, it doesn't vape quite as well completely full.
 

Ec!g

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That sounds about right. It's quite difficult to judge what's full anyway, it's not like you can just fill up to the threads then expect the coil/rba not to displace any liquid when imserted. I suppose that'll come with practice just like anything else.
I'm actually very surprised I got it right on the dot on my first try.
I'm not as think as I dumb I am. [emoji44]
 

jrlakeman

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Mar 25, 2015
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Has anyone had to deal with Kanger C/S for any problems, and if so, how are they to deal with?
Ive dealt with them to replace a insulator that melted. They were slow but they sent me a peek insulator after i sent them mine so they can verify it indeed melted do to inferior material. My friend gave me the tank he said he not gonna bother they wont do anything about but they did so its a bonus for me typing a small email out and putting in the codes from the box.
 

Mowgli

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I use Subtank minis with OCC coils on my 3 P3s and was getting occasional ohm errors on all 3.
I just did maintenance on all 3 mods (clean & NoOx threads and contacts) and still got errors.
I pushed the grommet & contact pin out of all three tank bases. They were stuck.
I worked them with juice until they slid freely & reinstalled.
No more errors :)

I know that grommets get corroded over time and have quite a few replacement parts for my Nautiluseseses
I saw that someone recently posted a link to replacement ST parts.
Post that link again please?
Thanks.
 

Mowgli

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