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PaulBHC

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The piece that sticks out below the oring is threaded into the part on top where your coil attaches. Grab the top part and tighten that bottom part by sticking something through the hole on one side and out the other.

EDIT I'm guessing this is correct as I have never tried it or had one that came apart
 
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schatz

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I am confused about where you are saying to tighten up? Air hole at the bottom of the rba? I do not see an air whole at the bottom of the rba.
I am new to thes STMs but I went and looked at one of my bases and it does not appear to be anything in the airhole that would need tightening. It sounds to me like a faulty coil, loose post screws or the insulator under the pos is cracked or burned. This is a STM with an rta head right ?
 

schatz

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The piece that sticks out below the oring is threaded into the part on top where your coil attaches. Grab the top part and tighten that bottom part by sticking something through the hole on one side and out the other.
You mean remove rba and then stick a screwdriver through air holes on that for leverage to tighten or loosen the positive post for insulator replacement. I see now, I did not know it worked like that.
 

PaulBHC

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See my edit. It has been a while since I saw a picture of one that came apart but I believe that is how they are assembled. So many versions now that who knows? Basically the positive post is a threaded hole and the air flow comes through a pipe with threads on the outside.

If you over tighten you will break the insulator!
 
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schatz

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See my edit. It has been a while since I saw a picture of one that came apart but I believe that is how they are assembled. So many versions now that who knows? Basically the positive post is a threaded hole and the air flow comes through a pipe with threads on the outside.

If you over tighten you will break the insulator!
Thanks for the tip good to know. Mine are probably old first generation, I got em for a cheap price last month and love em. Thanks I did buy some newer rbas with the Taifun style holes on the side will check em out and see if they are same way.
 

schatz

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Thanks for the tip good to know. Mine are probably old first generation, I got em for a cheap price last month and love em. Thanks I did buy some newer rbas with the Taifun style holes on the side will check em out and see if they are same way.
They are the same way, I guess after a ultrasonic cleaning it would be a good idea to check that before recotton.
 

JimDrock

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so I hate to be stupid..are we talking about the little thing that fits up into the rubber insulator?

:) No problem, I was not very clear, sorry about that.;)

I added a couple of pictures to help, the first shows the RBA bottom section, the arrow is pointing to the piece that I was talking about that has the air holes. This section is essentially the bolt that holds and tightens the positive post onto the RBA.
The second pictures shows these pieces disassembled.
(I hope I explained it a little better this time :))

20160802_210344.jpg
20160802_212423.jpg
 
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MacTechVpr

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so I hate to be stupid..are we talking about the little thing that fits up into the rubber insulator?

Not stupid at all C if you've never taken this base fully apart. All good answers here. The pos pin (airholes) screws through the insulator into the positive post bracket on the deck. Back it out and take a look. Loose insulator seating is the most common fault that drives res values unstable. Don't overtighten tho as this very slight shortening can impede good contact with the AF base or worse make the base pin too short at the 510 exit!

That pos pin can get pretty cruddy inside. Oxidation and residue can impact performance (and flavor) so I'm routinely taking these guys apart to clean, ultrasonic or polish them if need be. Not a big deal as you can go thru quite a few fills before it's needed depending on the juice. As with the old PT heads tho it makes for better results so I keep a batch of fresh ones handy with an oxidized t.m.c. wind installed ready to be wicked with KGD or Nextel.

Thx for the pics @JimDrock.

Good luck. :)
 
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JimDrock

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Not stupid at all C if you've never taken this base fully apart. All good answers here. The pos pin (airholes) screws through the insulator into the positive post bracket on the deck. Back it out and take a look. Loose insulator seating is the most common fault that drives res values unstable. Don't overtighten tho as this very slight shortening can impede good contact with the AF base or worse make the base pin too short at the 510 exit!

That pos pin can get pretty cruddy inside. Oxidation and residue can impact performance (and flavor) so I'm routinely taking these guys apart to clean, ultrasonic or polish them if need be. Not a big deal as you can go thru quite a few fills before it's needed depending on the juice. As with the old PT heads tho it makes for better results so I keep a batch of fresh ones handy with an oxidized t.m.c. wind installed ready to be wicked with KGD or Nextel.

Thx for the pics @JimDrock.

Good luck. :)

Thanks Mac, Nice explanation of the RBA.:thumbs:
 
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PaulBHC

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I just received a Protank 4 from Vapor Beast where it was on sale for $16+

It could have been called a STM v2. Same diameter, slightly shorter without driptip and holds a ml more. I put a larger hole rba plus that I had in a STM in it and so far good results.

Sadly I could only get 3ml in on refill. I vaped the liquid down to the top of the rba. IME if I go below that I start to get gurgling so I usually refill after that point. Been a while since I measured the STM refill and will check again today sometime. Pretty sure it was 3ml as well.
 

MacTechVpr

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MacTechVpr

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A lot of good parts for the STM, it never dawned on me to go straight to the source for them, I usually have been part shopping a Fasttech.

Thanks for the Link. :thumb:

It used to be much better. Multiples of every iteration goin' back to the original Sub including cages. You could practically build one from scratch. In fact I've got a nice suite of various glass and resin tanks I put together like that. Unfortunately, what we're seeing is not consistent with Kanger's policy of continuing support. And I can't take that as a good sign. Word to the wise.

Good luck. :)
 
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