Yes! I'm sure about the ratios. I greatly prefer thinner juices. I'll just fill a tank with 70 pg and I'll see what happens.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
- Thread starter Vap0rnomics
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'll try that for sure! This is so odd that I didn't really have this problem previously, except when I accidentally increased or decreased the wattage too quickly.
Remember what I said 'bout replacin' the air filter? The more we know, the more we need to know. There's always something diff or slightly diff with each user. But we never get to it if we overlook the simple and obvious…you can't get around having a stable reliable connection.
So first on the list is the viability of connectivity. Especially if you have a pin fed airflow atomizer like the factory OCC (as good as the new ones are). If you've frequently got a wet base (as good as it is with the raised pin and reservoir) you're going to have an inefficient connection. And that's going to get in the way of curing any problems. It may affect resistance resulting in the apparent dry hit situation JW describes, sour harshness, sizzle and sometimes spitting.
So for any adjustments to be meaningful in this case the leak's got to be isolated from the start. That is, to be sure it's dry before any test and observe when it isn't if the performance issue arises again.
Personally seldom experience any leaking (rba). When I do there's often another overlooked factor at work, ambient air pressure. Since even juice flow relies upon stable vacuum pressure in tanks changes as might be caused by weather, change of elevation, warming or cooling of the tank, etc. can throw things off. So any effort to identify whether juice viscosity or inadequate wicking/power are the cause needs to consider this as well.
On the first, keeping the base dry to arrive at any remedy is essential. Making sure as well that the pin protrudes enough from the 510 too as if there's any intermittent contact or arcing of neg to pos there this can mimic the wet connection as well. By visual inspection, you can make sure there's at least 1-2mm of the gold pin protruding at the base 510 when you've securely threaded in the core or rba. This I've seen to be a common problem with non-Kanger product.
Sometimes replacing or swapping the insulator there can cure this as some allow the pin too far in. If you make sure the coil is securely threaded in you're alright for the most part. Just resist over-tightening as this can cause things to go wonky including changes to resistance if too tight.
As with all else I've said elsewhere, consistency is key. Make sure power is stable. Especially if you're going to test the effects of variable wattage. That brings me to deviations of resistance in the coil itself and why I emphasize learning to make tensioned coils, for their stability. As I did with the Protank thread I'll underscore here that achieving coil stable res will solve 90% or more of all issues. Without this there are a lot of rabbit holes we can climb into.
Good luck.
So first on the list is the viability of connectivity. Especially if you have a pin fed airflow atomizer like the factory OCC (as good as the new ones are). If you've frequently got a wet base (as good as it is with the raised pin and reservoir) you're going to have an inefficient connection. And that's going to get in the way of curing any problems. It may affect resistance resulting in the apparent dry hit situation JW describes, sour harshness, sizzle and sometimes spitting.
So for any adjustments to be meaningful in this case the leak's got to be isolated from the start. That is, to be sure it's dry before any test and observe when it isn't if the performance issue arises again.
Personally seldom experience any leaking (rba). When I do there's often another overlooked factor at work, ambient air pressure. Since even juice flow relies upon stable vacuum pressure in tanks changes as might be caused by weather, change of elevation, warming or cooling of the tank, etc. can throw things off. So any effort to identify whether juice viscosity or inadequate wicking/power are the cause needs to consider this as well.
On the first, keeping the base dry to arrive at any remedy is essential. Making sure as well that the pin protrudes enough from the 510 too as if there's any intermittent contact or arcing of neg to pos there this can mimic the wet connection as well. By visual inspection, you can make sure there's at least 1-2mm of the gold pin protruding at the base 510 when you've securely threaded in the core or rba. This I've seen to be a common problem with non-Kanger product.
Sometimes replacing or swapping the insulator there can cure this as some allow the pin too far in. If you make sure the coil is securely threaded in you're alright for the most part. Just resist over-tightening as this can cause things to go wonky including changes to resistance if too tight.
As with all else I've said elsewhere, consistency is key. Make sure power is stable. Especially if you're going to test the effects of variable wattage. That brings me to deviations of resistance in the coil itself and why I emphasize learning to make tensioned coils, for their stability. As I did with the Protank thread I'll underscore here that achieving coil stable res will solve 90% or more of all issues. Without this there are a lot of rabbit holes we can climb into.
Good luck.
On factory coils, and as I often chain complex recipes, seldom see more than 4-5 days of good behavior, before flavor and performance go sideways. Ashy happens sooner and it's the road sign that your coil itself is the problem. That seems somewhat confirmed with the better result you got from the rba. Also, I run very high vg and have never found this to be a problem for stable wicking. In fact, the opposite. If you're leaking the indicated solution for a set-up in general could be to just up the viscosity. Learning to DIY and what variations do in your environment is a great tool for learning how to rebuild and manage what the equipment needs. The two things, rebuilding and DIY, go hand in hand and why the veteran vaper acquires a deep regard for open systems.
Something the FDA will NEVER understand.
Good luck.
Ok, I'm out. LOL You're running that engine on thin oil. That's off the chart in terms of my experience. Good luck.
Do agree with you, the ST does seem to have a very tight or narrow tolerance for vacuum. And when you do over-wick for one thing keeping flow up can be troublesome (under wick and you quickly dry out with high power). Your suggestion works great if there's too much vacuum. Rather than play with the AF ring tho, I just block the air-holes with two fingers and take a tug lightly and sustain the pressure for a few seconds. Often, you'll get a confirmation it worked by way of a small air bubble from one or both juice channels on the original rba. It's less predictable just how much with the v2's (OCC's) and true with these…you can wet your pants if you pull too hard.
Good luck.
I never had any luck rebuilding or rewicking the factory subtank heads, they either dryhit or flood. The RBA on the other hand I've had no issues at all with them. I have not as of yet used a stock subtank coil but I carry a couple when we travel just incase my wife burns her atty. I don't know why the stock OCC rewicked heads are such a miss for me so I instead bought a load of RBA's and keep the stock heads for their insulators incase I toast one.
Maybe one day I'll revisit the stock OCC head and instead of rayon as wicking I might blow the dust off my cotton and/or hemp and give it a try with a different wicking material
Maybe one day I'll revisit the stock OCC head and instead of rayon as wicking I might blow the dust off my cotton and/or hemp and give it a try with a different wicking material
I find, and yes I know, some have better luck with it... the cotton works better over the rayon with the kanger rbas. from all my reading, there does seem to be a bit of a relationship between high pg juices and issues as well. for those who I have talked too, I have suggested high vg for the tanks only, I'm getting less complaints about leaking etc. from my playing with the protank 4 rba, yes, I finally started playing with it.. fyi don't use the ceramic coil it comes with *shudders* I was waiting for the glass of the tank to melt or break from the heat of a long drawn vape(dtl), it got soo hot and I tried both ceramics(mine and hubby's) wondering if I got a defective coil and it was the same... they burn hot and run min 35w up to 70w. functionally, with the dual coil it's more flavour, and uses similar design with the bottom juice holes as the subtank rba v1, the top being all one solid dome piece. I had no issues wicking or making coils for it, leaking, and damn it was just plain easy and tasty!.
Read that alt. I Felt that way from the 1st week I vaped — what are these people thinkin'? That is, from the way they were windin', and still are. Although symmetry has improved I think mystery metal has a lot to do with the problem still. Authentic Kanthal in the OCC, spaced or t.m.c. and cotton work well for me. Due to the better airflow tho you can put a lot of muscle (and wick) in there.
Yeah, you should give it a try. Cotton's good in this tank. Cleaner than the Protank.
Rock solid 3-wire twisted-lead center post tensioned build for the orig OCC.
Good luck
Thanks to all of you for being so generous with your time and experience in trying to help me resolve my STM vaping issues. When I vape with my higher PG juice, I don't get the dry hits for some reason. In reading this thread, I am amazed at how much you all know about vaping, and how little I know. I think I am missing some very basic vaping knowledge, so I am going back to vaping 101 and learn more.
Thanks again!!
J.W.
Thanks again!!
J.W.
heh, some of what I know is from reading, some from my own painful experiences. glad to help either way. now if you could get my BB working with my comp... they're not getting a long and it's an update *mutters at MS* that caused it...
Hey folks, just a heads up that Lightning Vapes is blowing out OCC heads for $4.99/5 pack. Use LVsocial17 and get 17% off that. Just over $4 per 5 pack.
I bought a bunch of 0.5ohm coils, but they also have 1.2ohm and others.
I bought a bunch of 0.5ohm coils, but they also have 1.2ohm and others.
I occasionally experience dryhits, or more accurately, harsh hits, usually that happens when I've overtightened the base after filling. The issue is resolved when I unscrew the base and then screw it snug. Not tight, snug. Turning the tank upright after that will get the bubbles rising. As far as I can tell it's got nothing to do with how I wick it, but more with weather, temperature and atmospheric pressure. Primer puffs to re-establish negative pressure usually causes leaking and spitting in my case.
You almost have to with any kind of powerful wind. Not unusual. As efficiency increases or power, the flow is inadequate. With the orig channeled rba you need to file or bore them out. I go a step further to put a matching notch in the cylinder section. So you end up about a 16th. Maybe a bit less, or more. Still, I think because it's a tight precise tank flow gets interrupted by variances in vacuum, i.e. too hard, or long or repeated chaining (all of which I'm quite fond of).
With very deep, long pulls regardless of power or wind I get about three puffs on the Mini with the orig RDA. With the above solution every 2nd or 3rd pull I just take a light primer pull blocking off the dual-slots with thumb and index finger. Pretty much do it by force of habit. This helps ensure the wick's pretty much wet at all times. And as I said Nextel requires a lot of saturation.
Now if vacuum pressure becomes a problem [as it empties] and the wick tends to be overly saturated, you can just do a light puff into the air slots on either side as you fire. That quickly resolves it by slightly drying the wick with the additional air velocity and you're back in business. If it's a persistent problem, you may want to just go ahead and vape the rba at that higher flow level. You can take a 5/64" bit and expand the rba's pin holes laterally turning them into slots. Start carefully out to 125%. If need be you can close of the base slots a bit to adjust.
Routinely use a pair of Mini's and Sub's with my rotation of favorite tab's. The latter set up for fat pull chaining. The PTM's for a bit more subdued chain vaping. Both tho modified as above. I keep unmodified rba versions so I can keep tabs on what the rest of you experience…and don't forget the difference!
Good luck.
Last edited:
anybody know where to buy pre-made coils for the RBA in the STM? If it is at Fasttech do you have a link? I have scoured that darn website looking for them
I think I bookmarked these for the STM once upon a time - $2.83 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 4-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Some of the reviews mention kanger tanks. I don't vape that high of ohm anymore but might grab a pack or two in case my brother or his girl friend ever need to use them and I can't buy factory coils in the future thanks to the deeming.
Don't have a link but, type "pre-coiled wires" in the search box.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked