Let's Talk Hardware
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coolThe Kanger Subtank is already on the site.
What about the subox kit?The Kanger Subtank is already on the site.
I looked at it. I've seen a lot of sub box kits come through the shop. The reason I never pulled the trigger on it is, that with the market so saturated there are other devices that look, feel and perform better than the KBox. Honestly, an istick 50w or the IPV D2 would be better options within a similar price point.
I was just thinking it would be a great starter kit for someone wanting something more than eGo style kit. EVerything's right there, standard res, sub ohm, RBA deck.
OK, I am doing my self imposed annual torture, and I came across a couple of familiar names I cannot "Google" for info, only for sales. Maybe some of y'all tech savvy types could help me here ;
1) Who makes the Davide ? Guessing it's a rebuild able tank, and I know the originator is in the Far East. Just not sure where...
2) The Erlkonigin. Originally designed by Qorax, but I cannot find a website for this Qorax.
Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks.
1) Who makes the Davide ? Guessing it's a rebuild able tank, and I know the originator is in the Far East. Just not sure where...
2) The Erlkonigin. Originally designed by Qorax, but I cannot find a website for this Qorax.
Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks.
Qorax is an ECF member that hangs out in the RBA subforum , didn't know he was responsible for the design of the Erl , he's not the seller or manufacturer , they're based in Austria . The original Davide was a copy of the original Protank with a few improvements , not sure what they produce now but the Protank and the original Davide were pieces of crap IMO .
I'll confirm what Ret said. Qorax has nothing to do with the Erl other than he reviewed it. And the Davide was a knockoff of the Protank. Just as Ret said. Didn't know anyone still used a Davide.
The IPV D2 arrived today! It took longer to unbox than it did to get it going. Vaping happily! I love its size and form. For $43 plus shipping, it has great build quality. The body is aluminum billet. It came with a black silicone sleeve, but I love the silver. if it gets dinged a bit, that's okay. We'll see if I decide to use the sleeve later. It takes a single 18650.
Here it is next to my beloved ZNA Lite, which has an 18490 battery in it. This thing is tiny!
Here it is next to my beloved ZNA Lite, which has an 18490 battery in it. This thing is tiny!
So I may not quite understand these new, high power mods. I read that the IPV D2 has no ability to buck the power. Neither does my ZNA Lite, which will simply revert to mech mode and run straight off of the battery voltage until it drops below your setting. That's how the DNA 30 chip handles it. The ohms indicator will blink to let you know that's what's happening.
On my .9 ohm single coil, the ZNA blinks unless I am at 14.4 - 15 watts. At that level, it switches back into regulated mode. I like the warmth and density of the vapor at that setting, so I keep it there.
The IPV also ran well at that 14 - 15 watt range for a few hours. Then it tweaked out. It misread the ohms with each successive fire, increasing until it went over 8 ohms and fired lotsa volts into my coil! Awful vape, by the way, at that point. I tried a different Sony VTC5, then an AW IMR. Power off, battery pull, my other Aqua v2 (also a .9 ohm build). No dice. Sent off an email to Vape Royalty to let them know I may have a defective device. Packed up the mod to send back.
I broke out my handy ohms law app and did the math. To get to a voltage equal to or above 4.1 volts of my fresh battery, I need to set the watts between 21 & 22 watts. Break out the mod, pop the Sony VTC5 back in, set the watts to 30 W and try it. It worked! Drop down - because, dang, that's a harsh vape! At 21.4 W, all is still good, and the vape's not too harsh.
We will see how it goes tomorrow. No idea why the ZNA can regulate a fresh battery at 14.4W, but the IPV D2 needs it to be over 21W. But if it holds steady, I can live with that. Maybe one of you who are familiar with the DNA 30 and the YiHi SX130 chip will know.
On my .9 ohm single coil, the ZNA blinks unless I am at 14.4 - 15 watts. At that level, it switches back into regulated mode. I like the warmth and density of the vapor at that setting, so I keep it there.
The IPV also ran well at that 14 - 15 watt range for a few hours. Then it tweaked out. It misread the ohms with each successive fire, increasing until it went over 8 ohms and fired lotsa volts into my coil! Awful vape, by the way, at that point. I tried a different Sony VTC5, then an AW IMR. Power off, battery pull, my other Aqua v2 (also a .9 ohm build). No dice. Sent off an email to Vape Royalty to let them know I may have a defective device. Packed up the mod to send back.
I broke out my handy ohms law app and did the math. To get to a voltage equal to or above 4.1 volts of my fresh battery, I need to set the watts between 21 & 22 watts. Break out the mod, pop the Sony VTC5 back in, set the watts to 30 W and try it. It worked! Drop down - because, dang, that's a harsh vape! At 21.4 W, all is still good, and the vape's not too harsh.
We will see how it goes tomorrow. No idea why the ZNA can regulate a fresh battery at 14.4W, but the IPV D2 needs it to be over 21W. But if it holds steady, I can live with that. Maybe one of you who are familiar with the DNA 30 and the YiHi SX130 chip will know.
Yeah, that's odd. Not sure why it takes so much power. Is there an IPC D2 thread you can ask someone? Has to be someone familiar with that chip.So I may not quite understand these new, high power mods. I read that the IPV D2 has no ability to buck the power. Neither does my ZNA Lite, which will simply revert to mech mode and run straight off of the battery voltage until it drops below your setting. That's how the DNA 30 chip handles it. The ohms indicator will blink to let you know that's what's happening.
On my .9 ohm single coil, the ZNA blinks unless I am at 14.4 - 15 watts. At that level, it switches back into regulated mode. I like the warmth and density of the vapor at that setting, so I keep it there.
The IPV also ran well at that 14 - 15 watt range for a few hours. Then it tweaked out. It misread the ohms with each successive fire, increasing until it went over 8 ohms and fired lotsa volts into my coil! Awful vape, by the way, at that point. I tried a different Sony VTC5, then an AW IMR. Power off, battery pull, my other Aqua v2 (also a .9 ohm build). No dice. Sent off an email to Vape Royalty to let them know I may have a defective device. Packed up the mod to send back.
I broke out my handy ohms law app and did the math. To get to a voltage equal to or above 4.1 volts of my fresh battery, I need to set the watts between 21 & 22 watts. Break out the mod, pop the Sony VTC5 back in, set the watts to 30 W and try it. It worked! Drop down - because, dang, that's a harsh vape! At 21.4 W, all is still good, and the vape's not too harsh.
We will see how it goes tomorrow. No idea why the ZNA can regulate a fresh battery at 14.4W, but the IPV D2 needs it to be over 21W. But if it holds steady, I can live with that. Maybe one of you who are familiar with the DNA 30 and the YiHi SX130 chip will know.
No sign of the kanger subox yet. We'll give it a couple more days... What do they call it now, SBM?Well that's what i'm going to refer to it as, from now on, SuBoxMini (SBM).
That about where i like my atty's to run too.
Sweet! Lori. What tanks you running on those? Lovin my ZNA (clone) as well (polished SS) I thought it had a power button failure but turned out to be just gunked up with juice that had leak out. Now with the SBM I'll have a nice backup to take out and about.
Well, with a .9 ohm coil 19 watts would set you at around 4.14 volts (close to what a fresh battery would be charged at on a mech.) 20w would push it up to 4.24 volts still tolerable. At 30W your pushing 5.19 volts through the coil - no wonder you got harsh hits.If you want to use more wattage, drop the resistance down to like .5So I may not quite understand these new, high power mods. I read that the IPV D2 has no ability to buck the power. Neither does my ZNA Lite, which will simply revert to mech mode and run straight off of the battery voltage until it drops below your setting. That's how the DNA 30 chip handles it. The ohms indicator will blink to let you know that's what's happening.
On my .9 ohm single coil, the ZNA blinks unless I am at 14.4 - 15 watts. At that level, it switches back into regulated mode. I like the warmth and density of the vapor at that setting, so I keep it there.
The IPV also ran well at that 14 - 15 watt range for a few hours. Then it tweaked out. It misread the ohms with each successive fire, increasing until it went over 8 ohms and fired lotsa volts into my coil! Awful vape, by the way, at that point. I tried a different Sony VTC5, then an AW IMR. Power off, battery pull, my other Aqua v2 (also a .9 ohm build). No dice. Sent off an email to Vape Royalty to let them know I may have a defective device. Packed up the mod to send back.
I broke out my handy ohms law app and did the math. To get to a voltage equal to or above 4.1 volts of my fresh battery, I need to set the watts between 21 & 22 watts. Break out the mod, pop the Sony VTC5 back in, set the watts to 30 W and try it. It worked! Drop down - because, dang, that's a harsh vape! At 21.4 W, all is still good, and the vape's not too harsh.
We will see how it goes tomorrow. No idea why the ZNA can regulate a fresh battery at 14.4W, but the IPV D2 needs it to be over 21W. But if it holds steady, I can live with that. Maybe one of you who are familiar with the DNA 30 and the YiHi SX130 chip will know.
and see how it goes, for example, .5ohm at 30W is 3.87 Volts - and at 35 W it's 4.18 volts.
So higher wattage is compatible with lower ohm builds. with the SuBox Mini 60 watts is three times more than I'll normally use, but it's there if I should decide to go suck* ohm.
*subohm Damn spell check!!!
Gotta check on MamaChak be back soon...
Whew, out like a light @ 7:30PM! Bummer is, she'll be waking up at 2AM, ugh
That's when I usually hit the sack...
Let's hope she gets out of the right side of bed in the morning. She's never been a morning person - not even after coffee.
Whew, out like a light @ 7:30PM! Bummer is, she'll be waking up at 2AM, ugh
That's when I usually hit the sack... Let's hope she gets out of the right side of bed in the morning. She's never been a morning person - not even after coffee.
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Question: has anybody used any tanks that were not 510 connections? I haven't even seen any till today on Papaw's new thread - the Kabuki by house of hybrids is Z2 thread which screws right into a ZNA body (without the top cap.)
Is that similar to the P3 thread on the provari? Never seen tanks with that threading either. Seems it would be sturdier than 510.
Is that similar to the P3 thread on the provari? Never seen tanks with that threading either. Seems it would be sturdier than 510.
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