listing side by side mods

TruSound

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WARNING!!! My side-by-side ate my atty!

Wow! It's a sad sad day in Mudville today. My Knight v1 has eaten my favorite, first ever authentic, KFL+. I blame myself for not keeping an eye on it, but the air flow screw has backed out and now my prized atty is forever stuck in the Knight. This is one major drawback with a side-by-side, it's 80% concealed so there's no way to get any kind of tool in there to free it.

I'm thinking about cutting the mod up with a dremel to get the base plate out and trying to slice it up to get it off. I doubt this will work but what have I to loose. I love my KFL+, it's what got me off cigs. It has been shelved for the past year or more since I started using Kabuki's exclusively. I only recently put it back into service and maybe had 3 tanks through it before this happened.

Everyone please; please pay attention when servicing your gear. It's too late for me, but maybe this will help prevent another disaster.... :facepalm:

Sorry to hear this...quick question, so when you screwed the KF to the mod did you not feel the exposed screw bind on the mods 510 connector or did the screw back out after it was mounted and flush on the mod ?

However it happened, and like you said...this problem on a SxS mod definitely compounds the removal problem, with no way to grip the KF base there's no way to even force it, but you knew that.

I'm a diehard KFL+ user and trying hard to think of a solution for you...I'll let u know if I come up with anything. Good luck in the meantime.
 
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awsum140

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Is this weird?

I inserted battery in my knight v1 and screen lit up..... without putting cap on.

Where is the ground?

I'll bet it didn't stay lit for long, just, effectively, a pulse.

Skin effect or static charge.

Skin effect being the relative differences of voltage between the battery positive, the unoccupied negative terminal and the circuits in between.

The same would be true if it was caused by a static charge.
 

DPLongo22

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I'll bet it didn't stay lit for long, just, effectively, a pulse.

Skin effect or static charge.

Skin effect being the relative differences of voltage between the battery positive, the unoccupied negative terminal and the circuits in between.

The same would be true if it was caused by a static charge.

GET outta town. Really????
 
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mgmrick

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I can vape on it without battery cap installed. This only happen on 1 of 3 knights. And its the mod not the battery

Upon further testing... it only happens with that 1 battery but that battery only powers on knight in 1 knight without battery cap installed. The battery skin is perfect nothing exposed. Switched out battery
 
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DPLongo22

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I can vape on it without battery cap installed. This only happen on 1 of 3 knights. And its the mod not the battery

Upon further testing... it only happens with that 1 battery but that battery only powers on knight in 1 knight without battery cap installed. The battery skin is perfect nothing exposed. Switched out battery

Yeah, I think that may be a good choice. That's freaky.
 

k2zs

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Sorry to hear this...quick question, so when you screwed the KF to the mod did you not feel the exposed screw bind on the mods 510 connector or did the screw back out after it was mounted and flush on the mod ?

However it happened, and like you said...this problem on a SxS mod definitely compounds the removal problem, with no way to grip the KF base there's no way to even force it, but you knew that.

I'm a diehard KFL+ user and trying hard to think of a solution for you...I'll let u know if I come up with anything. Good luck in the meantime.
Thanks for that...

No. the AFC screw wasn't protruding when I put it on the mod. I use a cell phone cup holder to hold my mods when I travel and I do drive around 300 miles a day. Looking now, I see that any device in that holder does vibrate (I drive a 3/4 ton work van). That vibration probably worked that screw out.

I do have 2 EHP KFL+ v2's but to me they never compared to the authentic. Maybe it's all in my head, maybe it's the fact that the EHP chimney section wasn't "coned", but I did recover the parts from my authentic (tank sections, evaporation chamber, and chimney) so I'm going to try them on a clone base.

One thing for sure, I'll fix the AFC screw in place so it doesn't happen again...
 

Jim-

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Sent on my authentic Communicator by Tapatalk [emoji92]
 
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TruSound

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Have you ever tried the draw with the the AFC screw removed ?, I find the draw to be a perfect M-L draw without it…all 5 of my authentic KFL's screws were removed day one.

I don't discount what you said about the screw backing out, however…I just don't see how a screw that small could move riding around in a truck, especially far enough to work it's way out far enough to effect removal, anything is possible I guess.
 
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artv61

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Thanks but it's the air flow screw, not the fill screw. Only access to that is from below...
just a suggestion but if you take all the pieces off down to deck can you get plyers on posts on deck and unscrew? once it starts to turn it should come out .
 
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