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I went crazy today looking for these coils in the pictures that I posted. I still have them somewhere I know I didn't throw them out, but it seems they got misplaced. I'll find them and re-mount them to see if I can get that discoloration to go away.
For sure. Looks like this is the plan right now. I've since installed 2 brand new coils of the same exact kind and from the same exact pack of 5. So far I have cleaned and dry burned them twice on the same Griffin RTA, and the discoloration did not occur at all. Using same ejuice too. Granted, I'm now cleaning them with water as suggested, versus just a straight dry burn as before.
Interesting. Not sure what to make of it though. I even read the comments. Seems like as with anything vaping related, it's hard to hang your hat on something that everyone can come to a consensus on. Dry burn, don't dry burn. Make contact coils, make non-contact coils. Nickel's fine, don't use Nickel etc. Even Stainless Steel is brought into question in the article with its Moly and Manganese content. I inadvertently got a good dry hit on a dual coil tonight on my Vector RDA while dripping. According to the article, I should discard of that dual coil build now. That's crazy. Sucks if it's true and I should though.
Very interesting Article, the chemist mostly speaks of Ni or Nickel, now the industry has gone as far as only using TC with Ni, so as to not overheat the alloy which will cause oxidation as well as adverse reactions, with Kanthal A1 there is a tremendous temperature variation it withstands a lot, meaning it doesn't oxidase as fast at lower temps. When dry burning them I personally do not make them glow like a bulb
just slightly orange is enough for cleaning and adjusting.
Each of us has to decide for ourselves at this point until more research is done on our specific application of resistance wires directly contacting liquids to form an inhaled aerosol. Many folks develop habits and then defend them without considering all the factors.
Use of multi wired coils like clapton's and their variations etc is fun from the hobby aspect of vaping and I have enjoyed creating several specialized wires but never purchased any premade-I know this is becoming widely popular now but disagree with these sorts of coils being used on a daily basis for the simple reason of increased risk, When I build my own, I control the process from start to finish as well as the method of usage. I accept that there MAY be more risk. These builds are not my daily drivers!
Many folks only clean their coils with alcohol or simply use washing up liquid and rinse with water and call it good. This doesn't solve the hot spot issue or the adjustment of coils as we do when dry burning.
Dry-burning metal coils: is it a good thing?
This subject has been discussed at length on these boards and you will find every different view (read opinion) since there is no hard science applied to our use of these materials in vaping.
Dont Dry Burn Your Kanthal
Each must decide. It is, in any case, less risky as smoking but you have to use some common sense-right>?
Huh, I just had this happen to me too, on 2 day old coils. Mine weren't as "rusty" looking as the OP's, but after the glow faded from what I thought was a fairly gentle dry burn at 27.5W, some reddish coloration remained on parts of each coil. These are 26ga parallel core/32ga wrapped kanthal from a Geek Vape spool.
I just rewicked and used em normally. The taste seems the same, (very good). I've been using "young", (unsteeped), Vape Wild juice, which definitely has a high sweetener content. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
I just rewicked and used em normally. The taste seems the same, (very good). I've been using "young", (unsteeped), Vape Wild juice, which definitely has a high sweetener content. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
I'm pretty sure it is the juice, or the nicotine in the juice. There also seems to be a common misconception between oxidization and rust.
Oxidization is rust, or rather corrosion. Normally it occurs on aluminum and forms white powdery residue. Oxidation can also happen with nicotine, which is why some juices get darker over time....it is from the nicotine reacting to the oxygen in the bottle. Burning it could potentially cause it too. What you are seeing is baked on juice, or possibly even nicotine. Dry burning alone will not get rid of it, but firing and rinsing the coil while hot will. I am not a scientist by trade, nor do I have a degree in chemistry, but I work in the aviation industry, and corrosion(rust) is a common threat to aircraft, so I'm knowledgable in the subject. If any coils were to rust, it would be the ones with multiple types of wire in it. Dissimilar metals will cause corrosion. Again, I am not a scientist or chemist. This is just the info I have to offer.
Oxidization is rust, or rather corrosion. Normally it occurs on aluminum and forms white powdery residue. Oxidation can also happen with nicotine, which is why some juices get darker over time....it is from the nicotine reacting to the oxygen in the bottle. Burning it could potentially cause it too. What you are seeing is baked on juice, or possibly even nicotine. Dry burning alone will not get rid of it, but firing and rinsing the coil while hot will. I am not a scientist by trade, nor do I have a degree in chemistry, but I work in the aviation industry, and corrosion(rust) is a common threat to aircraft, so I'm knowledgable in the subject. If any coils were to rust, it would be the ones with multiple types of wire in it. Dissimilar metals will cause corrosion. Again, I am not a scientist or chemist. This is just the info I have to offer.
While I'm sure you know your business I have to disagree. I've been vaping for years and have never seen this occur, it isn't being caused by nicotine or juice. Heating the coil to 1200° or so degrees will certainly clear any liquid from the coil leaving only ash or carbon, never does it turn red.
There is some type of impurity in the alloy that shows after overheating, these coils are kanthal and properly alloyed kanthal doesn't turn red under any circumstance.
That could be the answer. I did not say that my answer was the most correct, I was just providing some food for thought.
Cheers
Cheers
Thanks for sharing that experience. I thought my dry burn on them was fairly gentle too. I've since been dry burning and "quenching" with tap water as someone mentioned above and I haven't had the issue again.
I have only used Kanthal wire to build my coils. My son gave me a tank and it can use the Clapton coil. I have never made those, are they hard to make? Also don't mean to sound stupid but what is nichrome? Do you use it the same way as the Kanthal wire?
Thanks,
Susan
Thanks,
Susan
I haven't used it yet, but I believe niChrome is used for temp controlling. If you really want to know....type in some keywords in the search tab at the top of the page, and if that fails....Google. You should research before building any coil.
The old saying is there are no stupid questions. Nichrome just use like Kanthal, it has a slightly lower resistance due to a bit of nickel. Just don't go crazy with dry burning, only red and not white hot.
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No it's not used for Temperature Control, use it like Kanthal.
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