Lost Vape Therion DNA75 Squonker

[Sloth Tonight]

You're using ss so it changes res with temp. If you leave it sit at room temp for 15-20min it will read the correct cold ohms. In temp control setting cold res is manditory for proper tc setup.
To change profiles from Ti to SS to KA etc. double press the up or down key after locking the power setting (by pressing and holding the up and down keys).
I know, it sounds like a pita but once you learn the various key combos it's quick and easy.

Flavor will def change with power or temp settings. They both achieve the same thing in that regard but in different ways.
The nice thing about DNAs is the true DC ouput in both power and temp modes. Flavor will be as good or better than mech mods but without the hassle of finding the perfect build for every new atty and dealing with voltage drop as the battery depletes. You can just lob whatever build you want in your tank or rda and run with it without worrying about changes in flavor until the battery is dead.

Thanks for all that info. I switched it over to SS316L and it seemed to automatically hop into temp mode. I'm not ready to dive into that quite yet. So for power mode, just leave it on kanthal - is that how it works?

I'm loving this thing...hits hard.

 

[cigatron]

Thanks for all that info. I switched it over to SS316L and it seemed to automatically hop into temp mode. I'm not ready to dive into that quite yet. So for power mode, just leave it on kanthal - is that how it works?

I'm loving this thing...hits hard.

Yep, vapin' ss in power mode (default KA) on your version is great. When you're ready to try it in tc pm me if you need anything.

 

[cigatron]

@Rayonati Sloth , what are the specs on your current ss build in your Hadaly?

 

[Sloth Tonight]

8 wraps spaced of 26g 3mm ID, was reading .52 ohms I think cold on the tab but the lowest its gotten on the mod is .6

 

[jazzvaper]

Thanks for all that info. I switched it over to SS316L and it seemed to automatically hop into temp mode. I'm not ready to dive into that quite yet. So for power mode, just leave it on kanthal - is that how it works?

I'm loving this thing...hits hard.

Hey Sloth,

You've called me out of Lurk-Mode. I have a Goon LP on the Therion using Nifethal from Germany, which is my default TC wire. But, to drop an oar in...

I switch to my SnapDragon, with the "Cloud Cap" & Velocity posts, that has a dual 316L installed with cold ohms reading 0.30Ω (on a standalone meter). It reads 0.27Ω on the Therion BF. At the moment vaping it at 455 degrees and 48 watts.

Hitting harder in TC is merely a matter of boosting the wattage. The Therion BF tops out at 75 watt, leaving only the option of boosting the temperature. Above 500 degrees I do no feel comfortable as that negates the (health) benefits of temperature control.

I am awaiting the arrival of a Lost Vape Drone BF that has a DNA 250 chip under clocked to 167 watts...with 2 amp charging.

 

[cigatron]

Hey Sloth,

You've called me out of Lurk-Mode. I have a Goon LP on the Therion using Nifethal from Germany, which is my default TC wire. But, to drop an oar in...

I switch to my SnapDragon, with the "Cloud Cap" & Velocity posts, that has a dual 316L installed with cold ohms reading 0.30Ω (on a standalone meter). It reads 0.27Ω on the Therion BF. At the moment vaping it at 455 degrees and 48 watts.

Hitting harder in TC is merely a matter of boosting the wattage. The Therion BF tops out at 75 watt, leaving only the option of boosting the temperature. Above 500 degrees I do no feel comfortable as that negates the (health) benefits of temperature control.

I am awaiting the arrival of a Lost Vape Drone BF that has a DNA 250 chip under clocked to 167 watts...with 2 amp charging.

I'm seeing great reviews on the Drone BF. If I didn't already have 5 DNA200 mods I would have ordered one. Maybe when the price drops I'll pick one up.
That's a sweet looking rig Jazz!

 

[cigatron]

8 wraps spaced of 26g 3mm ID, was reading .52 ohms I think cold on the tab but the lowest its gotten on the mod is .6

For that build in tc mode I'd set the power to 60w and leave it there, then adjust temp to your liking. Sounds hard don't it?
Thing is, you can get really good flavor in power mode, true, but as your juice supply varies and your draw effort varies so does the flavor, just like with your mechs.
In tc mode those two variances are negated because the mod will vary the power level accordingly and keep the coil at an even temp. Even temp = even flavor.
Throw both oars in man. What's the worst that can happen, you'll find out you like it?

 

[Sloth Tonight]

For that build in tc mode I'd set the power to 60w and leave it there, then adjust temp to your liking. Sounds hard don't it?
Thing is, you can get really good flavor in power mode, true, but as your juice supply varies and your draw effort varies so does the flavor, just like with your mechs.
In tc mode those two variances are negated because the mod will vary the power level accordingly and keep the coil at an even temp. Even temp = even flavor.
Throw both oars in man. What's the worst that can happen, you'll find out you like it?

Haha yep! I bet I will love TC. I may try it today! I guess I need to figure out escribe and load those csvs from steam engine in before I do that.

I LOVE the regulated squonking experience. I did not know i would like it this much. Having my coffee now, feeling a tad better today, upped wattage to 45 and this coil is just ripping it up. I can taste it better today and the flavor is outstanding on this juice right now.

I have not ever vaped regulated. I started with an 11 watt mvp2 but within a month i got a reo and preferred squonking. Almost 3 years later here i am with a regulated squonker and it kicks hind end.

The power and efficiency behind this coil at 45 watts is just so perfect. I get it now.

 

[Sloth Tonight]

Hey Sloth,

You've called me out of Lurk-Mode. I have a Goon LP on the Therion using Nifethal from Germany, which is my default TC wire. But, to drop an oar in...

I switch to my SnapDragon, with the "Cloud Cap" & Velocity posts, that has a dual 316L installed with cold ohms reading 0.30Ω (on a standalone meter). It reads 0.27Ω on the Therion BF. At the moment vaping it at 455 degrees and 48 watts.

Hitting harder in TC is merely a matter of boosting the wattage. The Therion BF tops out at 75 watt, leaving only the option of boosting the temperature. Above 500 degrees I do no feel comfortable as that negates the (health) benefits of temperature control.

I am awaiting the arrival of a Lost Vape Drone BF that has a DNA 250 chip under clocked to 167 watts...with 2 amp charging.

Hey man!

I was very excited for the drone but i am bummed about one thing. I saw a video and noticed there is a squonk tube inside the mod that runs from where the bottle connects to the center. It looks difficult to remove and replace. That's an issue for me, because I switch flavors a lot and have multiple bottles for various profiles, some of which are strong and the bottles and tubes retain the flavor.

Not being able to switch out the entire plastic squonk setup frequently is a real con to me. Plus, if that inner tube ever leaked, I think it is in near the electronics.

I know they delayed because they had to fix something with that. Originally the tube was crazy long and was bent inside the mod, so it literally wasn't squonking. The reviewers brought it up and LV was fixing it. I hope they decided on a metal tube of some sort instead, that can be flushed and not retain flavor. Because the drone looks amazing otherwise.

 

[cigatron]

Haha yep! I bet I will love TC. I may try it today! I guess I need to figure out escribe and load those csvs from steam engine in before I do that.

I LOVE the regulated squonking experience. I did not know i would like it this much. Having my coffee now, feeling a tad better today, upped wattage to 45 and this coil is just ripping it up. I can taste it better today and the flavor is outstanding on this juice right now.

I have not ever vaped regulated. I started with an 11 watt mvp2 but within a month i got a reo and preferred squonking. Almost 3 years later here i am with a regulated squonker and it kicks hind end.

The power and efficiency behind this coil at 45 watts is just so perfect. I get it now.

I'm glad you're feeling better sloth. Sucks when you can't taste yer vape.

On the csv files, I wouldn't bother at this point. Depending on who made the wire and how close it is to being the correct tcr for 316L you may find the default cvs to be better. The only way to know for sure is to do a dry cotton browning test at 420°f.
Just flip over to the 316ss temp mode, set the power to 60w and adjust temp to get the same heat as you're currently getting in power mode. Adjust up or down for flavor from there. Doooooo it.....

Note: You'll have to wait for your atty to cool to room temp before locking the res in tc mode. Just .01 error in cold res can cause your displayed temp to be off 50+ degrees.

 

[Sloth Tonight]

I'm glad you're feeling better sloth. Sucks when you can't taste yer vape.

On the csv files, I wouldn't bother at this point. Depending on who made the wire and how close it is to being the correct tcr for 316L you may find the default cvs to be better. The only way to know for sure is to do a dry cotton browning test at 420°f.
Just flip over to the 316ss temp mode, set the power to 60w and adjust temp to get the same heat as you're currently getting in power mode. Adjust up or down for flavor from there. Doooooo it.....

Note: You'll have to wait for your atty to cool to room temp before locking the res in tc mode. Just .01 error in cold res can cause your displayed temp to be off 50+ degrees.

So, get it all set then try dry burning my rayon at 420 degrees?

That sounds horrifying

Dude...so you can really vape it DRY in tc? Thats wild...

 

[kiba]

Could have been things got screwy when you started using SS for tc? That may not be a problem with Evolv's tcr curves as much as the wire manufacturer's variations in quality control. I've seen China manufactured 316 SS wire vary in tcr (at 420°f) from 82 to 105. Just say'n.
Each time I order a new spool of wire I do a dry cotton burn test at 420°f and write the tcr value on the wire spool.

I don't use tcr, I've only ever found it to be in accurate, but yeah the temco 316L spools I have work well with a steam engine csv.

So, get it all set then try dry burning my rayon at 420 degrees?

That sounds horrifying

Dude...so you can really vape it DRY in tc? Thats wild...

That's how I do it, squonk, vape it dry and squonk again. It's really good on juice efficiency.

You will need to replace the factory materials at some point with the correct ones but here's a good trick you may not know yet... Since you're still using the factory settings you can pick one or two with the settings you like and swap materials on them right from the mod without escribe.

You just make sure you're in the profile you want, lock the mod (fire button 5x) then hold all 3 buttons, this will rotate through all the materials stored on the mod and let you get more use out of the stock profiles.

 

[cigatron]

So, get it all set then try dry burning my rayon at 420 degrees?

That sounds horrifying

Dude...so you can really vape it DRY in tc? Thats wild...

Yes, you can vape an atty dry in tc without burning your wicking but only if everything is set up correctly and you don't have the temp turned up too high. The mod will just turn the power down as juice supply wanes.
Re: Cotton burn test; in order for you to determine what actual tcr value your wire has it's a good idea to do a dry cotton burn test.
It's pretty simple really. Dry Cotton turns brown at 420°f. You wick your coil with dry cotton (not rayon) which will begin to turn brown when you fire the mod at 420°f IF your tcr is set correctly. Setting tcr on a dna requires escribe and is a pita afaic. I use mods with on board manual tcr settings for this purpose, like a joyetech cuboid, ocular-c, rx200 etc. You begin by setting your tcr value too low at first (maybe .00085 for 316l ss) and keep increasing it a little at a time until firing the coil at 420°f barely browns the dry cotton. Once you find the tcr for that wire write it on your wire spool for future reference. Once you find the ACTUAL tcr for that spool of wire you can go into escribe and create a material profile with the correct tcr for THAT spool of wire and download it to your mod where you can select it from your materials list. From that point on your DISPLAYED temp setting will match your ACTUAL coil temp.
Once you become familiar with escribe you'll see why I don't use it for testing wire tcr and use some other mod instead.
Now that you have the low down on testing tcr you'll have to determine if having your set temp and actual coil temp match is worth it. For many it is not worth the trouble and they just don't worry about having the display read wrong. Maybe you have to vape X wire at 285°f and Y wire at 500°f to get the same warmth..... big deal to some and no big deal to others.

 

[kiba]

Yes, you can vape an atty dry in tc without burning your wicking but only if everything is set up correctly and you don't have the temp turned up too high. The mod will just turn the power down as juice supply wanes.
Re: Cotton burn test; in order for you to determine what actual tcr value your wire has it's a good idea to do a dry cotton burn test.
It's pretty simple really. Dry Cotton turns brown at 420°f. You wick your coil with dry cotton (not rayon) which will begin to turn brown when you fire the mod at 420°f IF your tcr is set correctly. Setting tcr on a dna requires escribe and is a pita afaic. I use mods with on board manual tcr settings for this purpose, like a joyetech cuboid, ocular-c, rx200 etc. You begin by setting your tcr value too low at first (maybe .00085 for 316l ss) and keep increasing it a little at a time until firing the coil at 420°f barely browns the dry cotton. Once you find the tcr for that wire write it on your wire spool for future reference. Once you find the ACTUAL tcr for that spool of wire you can go into escribe and create a material profile with the correct tcr for THAT spool of wire and download it to your mod where you can select it from your materials list. From that point on your DISPLAYED temp setting will match your ACTUAL coil temp.
Once you become familiar with escribe you'll see why I don't use it for testing wire tcr and use some other mod instead.
Now that you have the low down on testing tcr you'll have to determine if having your set temp and actual coil temp match is worth it. For many it is not worth the trouble and they just don't worry about having the display read wrong. Maybe you have to vape X wire at 285°f and Y wire at 500°f to get the same warmth..... big deal to some and no big deal to others.

The great thing about TFR is not having to do any burn test, only time I've ever done one was to check a wire I got from fasttech, but it even handles those cheap wires.

 

[cigatron]

The great thing about TFR is not having to do any burn test, only time I've ever done one was to check a wire I got from fasttech, but it even handles those cheap wires.

Not sure I understand your point. TFR (temperature factor of resistance) is based on TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance). The only difference is that a TFR .csv , from Steam Engine for instance, is a modified (curved) profile to match a wire type's true non linear TCR value.
If you create a material profile and set a tcr value for a wire in escribe the program will create a linear tfr .csv file that can modified (curved) or left linear and saved. Even though a linear tfr does not perfectly represent the wire's tfr at each temperature point from room temp to 600°f it will represent accurately enough the tfr in our normal vaping temp range eg 380-450°f.
Having discovered this I don't use tcr/tfr curved files, I just create material profiles with linear tcr/tfr values and they work great as long as the wire has been tested for tcr at 420°f.
A lot of people run Evolv's .csv or .csv files from this or that source and complain about it being hot or anemic while others just love it.....it's variances in the quality of their wire that causes the issues. By testing for tcr at 420°f and creating my own linear .csv files I can use any wire I like and all my dna/atty combos run very close to the same temp.
Besides, it's not important to me what happens temp-wise from cold temp up to my vaping temp. I don't need a curve there because I don't vape there.

That's just how I feel about the whole .csv thing but to each their own. There is no wrong way as long as it makes a person happy.

 

[kiba]

All I know is every time I've tried a device that used a TCR value instead of a TFR range it has required a lot of fiddling and re-fiddling and been overall inaccurate. At least in the dna's case, with the right TFR range it just works, every time.

 

[cigatron]

All I know is every time I've tried a device that used a TCR value instead of a TFR range it has required a lot of fiddling and re-fiddling and been overall inaccurate. At least in the dna's case, with the right TFR range it just works, every time.

TFR range? Never heard of a tfr range. Anyway, this thread may help clear things up for you kiba.

TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

 

[kiba]

TFR range.

example; the range I use for 430

You realise this thread is about a dna device?

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

TFR range.

example; the range I use for 430

You realise this thread is about a dna device?

Yes. But the other thread he referenced is a very valuable resource on TC in general, not just in Dicodes as its name may imply.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sloth Tonight]

I am confused...