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ThreeDJ16

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Just think what may happen if the coffee ran-out....:rolleyes:

Deader than dead. Is there is a such a thag?.....:cry:
Yeah, yeah....that's what happens when you aren't making stuff...LOL. Actually I am, they are just the aluminum GDNA mods that are all pre-sold except for one. Hoping to finish those next week. Then one last project, but it's on hold for a bit.

But I've been asked about Peko soldering, so will try to makeup a quick tutorial on how I build Peko mods this weekend. After many different styles of doing it, finally come to the conclusion that my current way is the simplest, fastest and no additional v-drop from compression connections. It uses everything original except the brass rod and the 4 nuts associated with it (just one small piece of 14g stranded wire in it's place). Oh, and it also allows for the use of the new varitube 510 spring loaded. All the other original connection points just get soldered. There are a couple of joints you could leave unsoldered as they are trickier, but I prefer to lock down any connection possible.

Anyway, I'll try and get up some pics this weekend. And hopefully more pics later of the rest of the aluminum mods.
 
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ThreeDJ16

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FYI, damn I love this mod! Never been a person who even desired an aluminum mod before, but man I am glad I decided to keep mine.




FYI, I am not going to say who owns this one, but I bet a few of you can guess! LOL It isn't quite finished yet, but decided to post a pic anyway. Still a little detail work to do on it and finish the internals. But it's almost there.
 

ThreeDJ16

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I'll be glad to see the tutorial! I still haven't got around to modding my Pekos yet.
Gdeal is light years ahead of me making up tutorials, but I'll snap a few shots of the parts I solder and try my best to explain the where, when and how.
 

tiburonfirst

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tiburonfirst

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tiburonfirst

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ThreeDJ16

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I will post the pics here for soldering a Peko and a little explanation (and repost on pic thread), then answer any questions you'll may have.

Here is a pic of the stranded wire soldered from the battery tab to the 510 positive terminal. It isn't necessary to solder the 510 positive pin nut to the terminal like I did, but this way there is no oxidation to worry with.




Here is the switch plate soldered. Make sure you fit it in the Peko first to get the angle correct and also the larger terminal is on top.




I also solder the switch screw to the switch terminals for no oxidation and put a layer of solder over the screw slot too and file it down. But this must be done with the terminals in the frame or it won't fit through.




Sorry for the pic quality, but it is what it is. Any questions, just let me know.
 

ThreeDJ16

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wowOwow! faaaaaahhhbulous pic tutorial! thankyou ThankYou THANKYOU!!!
Thanks, hope it helps out.

When I finish up the last of my aluminum mods, there will be a wait before I can do my last project. So the Peko pictured above will hopefully be the first carbon fiber version. Been saving real carbon fiber webbing for this very reason. Should be cool. I kept the last 3 Peko kits; the one for carbon fiber, one for leather and undecided on the third, but thinking denim material. Plus I have the wood veneer one too. Think this covers me well into the vapocalypse for many years...LOL. But I probably be willing to sell a couple off. My mod collection is pretty insane right now anyway.
 
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