Mactavish-Cubis DRYBURN/PULSE How To!

[Mactavish]

I like the Joyetech Cubis tank since it does not leak. My experience so far with their prebuilt coils is mixed. I believe this tank can easily replace my Tron tanks, and perhaps my Kanger Subtank Minis as well. Now that I have bought 3 of the Cubis RBA's, I can roll my own Titanium coils, either horizontally or vertically, the STM RBA does NOT allow a vertical build.

But after the joy of getting the Cubis RBA's wore off, I realized there was no way to dry burn Kanthal coils, or low wattage PULSE my Titanium coils (I use a custom TCR of 0700, on both my DNA200 and Joyetech VTC MINI at 10 watts). Seached the Internet for a solution and found nothing. Thought about making some kind of RBA holder myself, then remembered the little EGRIP RBA-510 adapter I used to use with the Egrip mod, also made by Joyetech. Hence the:

"MACTAVISH-CUBIS DRYBURN METHOD"

Well, maybe not a method, all you need is a $5.00 premade 510 adapter.

eGrip RBA 510 Adapter - Joyetech

The Joyetech Cubis RBA fits in the Egrip RBA-510 adapter "almost" perfectly. There is a slight bevel on the top cap of the Cubis RBA, so when you tighten down the top part of the RBA-510 adapter cap which is perfectly flat, the Cubis RBA moves slightly to one side, so it does not look perfectly level, but other then OCD looks, it still functions the same making the proper electrical connections. Perhaps some dremel work on the inside of the RBA-510 adapter cap would address that, but since it works as is, I doubt I'll bother. I also noticed the ohms can be spot on, or drift a bit while loosening and tightening all the various parts onto my CoilMaster 510 Tab. But again, the ohms are not effecting the usefulness of being able to dryburn or pulse the coils in the Cubis RBA. You can do this directly on your mod, here is a photo on the CoilMaster 510 Tab, with the included horizontal coil that came with the Cubis RBA, should work the same with a vertical coil. Have FUN!

 

[Matthee]

Just got my Cubis RBA and was wondering about dry burning. Thank you so much for sharing, much appreciated.

 

[Mactavish]

Just got my Cubis RBA and was wondering about dry burning. Thank you so much for sharing, much appreciated.

You are welcome. Also a good way to check your builds before installing in tank.

 

[Mactavish]

There is a thread already on the Cubis tank here:
Joyetech Cubis

I thought this might be a good, but separate place to discuss the Cubis RBA.

MY EXPERIENCE SO FAR:

So far I've had mixed results. I'm not a master builder, I learned building coils on the tiny Chalice 3, bottom feed atty. I like to do simple, single coils using Titanium, prefer 24 gauge as it's easy to work with, and the Unkaman brand is already soft, no need to anneal. 3mm ID, at 6 wraps, gives good heat flux. Comes in at approx. .19 ohms. in a horizontal build on the Cubis RBA. On a VTC Mini, I'm finding I have to run it using my custom TCR of 0366, which runs it a bit hotter then whatever the VTC's titanium TCR is setup for in their Titanium "preset". I'm also finding that I have to turn the temperature up to 520f. Using this exact same build on both the rebuildable CLR coils for the Tron tanks, and on my SubTank Mini RBA's, I usually have the temp at 470f. I leave my set wattage at 35 watts on all my mods as it makes little difference, my titanium builds get to set temp quickly.

Building is similar to the CLR coils where you are trap the positive lead between the bottom rubber gasket and the removable positive pin, except the negative lead is captured in the small hole on the bottom of the RBA, and tightened using the TINY screw.

It's no where near as good as the STM RBA, which has the more traditional two posts and two screws to capture the wires, better for solid TC accuracy.

The Cubis RBA TINY screws with TINY Philips heads are stripping too easy. The included blue screw driver makes stripping them even easier, but even using a quality screwdriver does not help much, a bit better, but it's the CHEAP TINY SCREWS that are the real problem. Getting a good solid connection here has proven to be a problem already.

If you build the horizontal coil in the RBA, be careful to keep the coil low, as you are supposed to switch the chimney to the longer extension tube. I was getting a proper ohm reading using the Egrip adapter shown in first post in this thread. But once on the mod, got LOW OHM warning. Finally figured out that once installed, the longer chimney extension must have been coming in contact with the coils. I lowered the coils and it solved the issue. The reason I tried setting the coils a bit higher in the first place was to get them a little above the cotton bed you are supposed to place on the bottom of the RBA, because unlike the STM RBA, this one still gets juice from two bottom holes in the RBA, just like the prebuilt coils as well as the two side slots found on the RBA. My first build had too much cotton in the bed, and the lower coil was sitting in juice and spitting. Next time I used less cotton in the bed of the bottom base, but as described above, the coils have to be low. Just don't over pack the bottom bed of the RBA.

Other then having to run this current RBA build at higher temps then I'm used to, it's not spitting now, and flavor is pretty good. It's just a hassle to use this RBA, even when compared to the CLR coils, and much more time and work then a STM RBA. I like the leak proof aspect of these tanks, but it's coming with the price of a HEADACHE!

 

[Mactavish]

Oh, thought I would add this, a message I sent to MVS, where I bought 3 Cubis tanks:

"I've had these tanks for less then a week and today discovered a small piece of white silicone in the juice tank when I went to refill it today, then when I removed the top airflow control ring, I saw that it had come from that o-ring, which was broken.
These tanks come with NO spare o-orings, unlike most other tanks, like the Kanger Subtanks. And with almost every other tank on the market, you can buy spares!
I like this tank, but now can not use it. Please advise."

They are a good mail order company, and got back to me immediately, saying they would send out a replacement tank, and a prepaid envelope for the bad one.

While that's proper customer service, it reveals yet another downside to these Cubis tanks, NO spare parts to purchase at this point in time. So break or lose an oring and your tank is useless. I only got a replacement as I just bought them, down the road out of warranty, and your tank is junk. Like Kanger or not, at least before the TopTank release, they gave you spare glass and orings. Guess those days are over. That's unless we all complain and get these companies to once again include spare parts or at least offer them as a buy option. If that's how it's going to be with these Cubis tanks, I'll go back to my STM's, leaks or not!

Got an answer today from MVS concerning buying orings for the Cubis tank:

"I don't think Joyetech will distribute the o-rings for individual resale anytime in the near future, they didn't do it with their previous tanks as far as I know."

So I guess these tanks are DISPOSABLE!

 

[Major911]

Great review and very informative. Thanks


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