Making an Atomizer Coil 101 (Actual Working Methods Only)
- Thread starter Vaporer
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I cant get silica rope anywhere in the UK & I googled it for ages.
All they do is the fibreglass stuff.
Is there another alternative or anyone know a supplier.
I did try something called fire wick off EBay but it burst into flames. Sort of turned my PV into a cigarette lighter.
Thanks for starting this thread. Very helpfull
All they do is the fibreglass stuff.
Is there another alternative or anyone know a supplier.
I did try something called fire wick off EBay but it burst into flames. Sort of turned my PV into a cigarette lighter.
Thanks for starting this thread. Very helpfull
Glad you are enjoying the thread.
I sent the last of my extra to Romania a few months back and havent needed more since.
Hopefully someone will unbraid a couple strands of a ft or 2 and send them out.
One suggestion, send it in an envelope! I sent a lot of stuff at once, flux, wire, wicking everything needed and it required a small box. That means customs and inspection. Its fine to ship legally, it just takes forever to get through.
I sent the last of my extra to Romania a few months back and havent needed more since.
Hopefully someone will unbraid a couple strands of a ft or 2 and send them out.
One suggestion, send it in an envelope! I sent a lot of stuff at once, flux, wire, wicking everything needed and it required a small box. That means customs and inspection. Its fine to ship legally, it just takes forever to get through.
Nice to see some help going on here!
Yes, the wire at Rat Shack (Catalog #: 278-1345 ) is what I use. The 3 spool pack is all they carry now. The green is 26ga. On some attys you can fit the green just fine in and in others I use the red 30ga.
I have never had a 30ga lead wire fail yet after many months. In the tutorial pic you can see I used it there.
I posted it in one of my threads. The factory lead wire is hard to come by or any good replacement for it. It has quite a few strands, but has a unique thin insulation. Any US found wire so far with that O.D. will not carry the load needed. So, the enameled wire works well and meets the requirements.
Also, you are correct, "magnet wire" is enameled wire. That term was to indicate the very thin insulation coating needed to wind electro-magnetic coils.
Yes, the wire at Rat Shack (Catalog #: 278-1345 ) is what I use. The 3 spool pack is all they carry now. The green is 26ga. On some attys you can fit the green just fine in and in others I use the red 30ga.
I have never had a 30ga lead wire fail yet after many months. In the tutorial pic you can see I used it there.
I posted it in one of my threads. The factory lead wire is hard to come by or any good replacement for it. It has quite a few strands, but has a unique thin insulation. Any US found wire so far with that O.D. will not carry the load needed. So, the enameled wire works well and meets the requirements.
Also, you are correct, "magnet wire" is enameled wire. That term was to indicate the very thin insulation coating needed to wind electro-magnetic coils.
Last edited:
On the wire left in the cup holes..................
Heat, PG/VG causes the wire to swell, soften , whatever....it doesnt want to come out easily. It usually breaks off.
Drilling it out is fine. For those who don't have drills that small, it can be worked out with a needle or a piece of stiff wire. Once its out I like to clean the hole by sliding a piece of copper wire through the hole a few times, then clean the cup with an old tooth brush and rinse.
If you can get the solder joint to pull up just a bit, cut or break the old joint off and many times the wire can be pulled out from the bottom. Some insulation may remain but the needle or stiff wire solves that issue pretty easily.
Heat, PG/VG causes the wire to swell, soften , whatever....it doesnt want to come out easily. It usually breaks off.
Drilling it out is fine. For those who don't have drills that small, it can be worked out with a needle or a piece of stiff wire. Once its out I like to clean the hole by sliding a piece of copper wire through the hole a few times, then clean the cup with an old tooth brush and rinse.
If you can get the solder joint to pull up just a bit, cut or break the old joint off and many times the wire can be pulled out from the bottom. Some insulation may remain but the needle or stiff wire solves that issue pretty easily.
Last edited:
Once you get the atty un built take a torch, (holding atty with needle nose or hemostat), and heat the little b%$#$ up red hot. That will clean any residue and glue off!!!
uk only thing i could find as asilica substitute v
is zippo wick works well and is only a quid
is zippo wick works well and is only a quid
bored,
I hear ya. The Zippo type lighter wick seems to work. It was used by people in other threads. It has a cotton like look more than the slick look of silica. I dont know what the actual material is or what might be used to make it non-burning.
I have seen that kind of material used in some 510's recently and they all had the protruding ends burnt off. Both were in a 5v unit.
Keep it as wet as possible.
I hear ya. The Zippo type lighter wick seems to work. It was used by people in other threads. It has a cotton like look more than the slick look of silica. I dont know what the actual material is or what might be used to make it non-burning.
I have seen that kind of material used in some 510's recently and they all had the protruding ends burnt off. Both were in a 5v unit.
Keep it as wet as possible.
today I successfully wound an atomizer and a spare!!!!! Pretty much every night since my last post I've tried to wind at least one coil and only had one that worked for a little while. It took this long to come up with a technique that worked. That and I had burned out all my atomizers (I went through 5 washer type atty's in 2 days), & still don't understand why. The only plus imho is the washer type are easier to rebuild. I built @ 4ohms so my 510 runs cooler and still puts out good vapor (5 volts). I've been vaping on my rebuild for 5 hours now and believe me I mean vaping with a capital V.
Thanks again to Vaporer. My next project picture taking 101. Don't hold you breath though. I still have to come down from this lesson in frustration first.
Thanks again to Vaporer. My next project picture taking 101. Don't hold you breath though. I still have to come down from this lesson in frustration first.
48lowes Congrats!
It can take some time and practice to get what you want. The 510 is the smallest area I've seen to work in. Now that you've got a couple good ones, more are to come.
Good solder joints and non touching coil wraps are mandatory.
I've wound many at 4.5ohms for 3.7v. That's abt as cold as I prefer at that voltage.
4ohms is cooler than a factory 2.3 or 3.4ohm factory wind and will help the atty life. Using wire larger than the factory 38ga helps alot too.
By now I think you realize why I say there is no "right way". Many will find certain techniques that work for them while different techniques are easier for others.
Glad this information helped you and again , Good Job!
It can take some time and practice to get what you want. The 510 is the smallest area I've seen to work in. Now that you've got a couple good ones, more are to come.
Good solder joints and non touching coil wraps are mandatory.
I've wound many at 4.5ohms for 3.7v. That's abt as cold as I prefer at that voltage.
4ohms is cooler than a factory 2.3 or 3.4ohm factory wind and will help the atty life. Using wire larger than the factory 38ga helps alot too.
By now I think you realize why I say there is no "right way". Many will find certain techniques that work for them while different techniques are easier for others.
Glad this information helped you and again , Good Job!
Last edited:
An email comment from a friend recently sparked a lot of thoughts about coil making.
Once you can make a suitable replacement coil you now have some nice options to consider.
Lets look at the different puff styles of PV users.
Some draw cheek only then inhale. Others take a long draw directly into the lungs.
This can severly effect atomizer, battery life and tailoring your replacement coil can be a huge advantage to your vaping style and enjoyment of your PV.
Lets look and consider a few examples:
A cigar smoker normally uses the "cheek draw". They may inhale or not. My findings and testing show that most e-cigs @ 3.7v don't support this method well. Even when watching videos you will see people taking "primer puffs" to warm it up and get vapor production going well. This can be resolved by making the coil a bit lower in ohms(hotter) allowing it to heat up faster. It will produce vapor faster and less time in the "on" state" overall reducing the actual battery usage.
Next is the "long draw" while inhaling style. Most PV's are more suited to this, but due to the length of the draw can actually still work quite well from a slightly higher ohm coil than the factory 3.4ohm. 4-4.5 ohms works well for users in this catagory at 3.7v. The higher ohms draws less current supporting longer battery life. The long draw allows the coil time to heat up to vaporizing temperature.
Lastly is the pipe smoker. Pipe smokers seem to like a few puffs and either inhale or not. Somewhat in between the 2 examples above.
I personally believe this is a reason many people choose to go to HV. Unfortunatlely, this is much harder on the very fine factory 38ga wire and drys out quickly too, further increasing heat, causing premature atomizer failure. Enter the sale of of 4.5ohm HV atomizers. This certainly reduces the heat some, still higher than stock, but does help ease the load on the atomizer coil and drying out issues.
You're probably wondering "ok, where is this all going and what does it mean?"
When rewinding a replacement coil the larger the wire you can use is always better for durability. Period
You can increase the dia of the coil to hold more liquid while lowering the ohms a bit. If you get the dia to large it will go back towards a longer heat up time.
Here you have 2 choices, reduce the dia a bit or reduce the ohms a little.
Reducing the dia, but still larger than the factory size, will give a better reserve for more frequent and longer puffing but will require a little more heat due to the amount of liquid present in the now larger wick core.
Hopefully my explanation allows you to understand the idea I'm trying to get across on the variables at hand to enhace your PV enjoyment while preserving atomizer life.
Once you can make a suitable replacement coil you now have some nice options to consider.
Lets look at the different puff styles of PV users.
Some draw cheek only then inhale. Others take a long draw directly into the lungs.
This can severly effect atomizer, battery life and tailoring your replacement coil can be a huge advantage to your vaping style and enjoyment of your PV.
Lets look and consider a few examples:
A cigar smoker normally uses the "cheek draw". They may inhale or not. My findings and testing show that most e-cigs @ 3.7v don't support this method well. Even when watching videos you will see people taking "primer puffs" to warm it up and get vapor production going well. This can be resolved by making the coil a bit lower in ohms(hotter) allowing it to heat up faster. It will produce vapor faster and less time in the "on" state" overall reducing the actual battery usage.
Next is the "long draw" while inhaling style. Most PV's are more suited to this, but due to the length of the draw can actually still work quite well from a slightly higher ohm coil than the factory 3.4ohm. 4-4.5 ohms works well for users in this catagory at 3.7v. The higher ohms draws less current supporting longer battery life. The long draw allows the coil time to heat up to vaporizing temperature.
Lastly is the pipe smoker. Pipe smokers seem to like a few puffs and either inhale or not. Somewhat in between the 2 examples above.
I personally believe this is a reason many people choose to go to HV. Unfortunatlely, this is much harder on the very fine factory 38ga wire and drys out quickly too, further increasing heat, causing premature atomizer failure. Enter the sale of of 4.5ohm HV atomizers. This certainly reduces the heat some, still higher than stock, but does help ease the load on the atomizer coil and drying out issues.
You're probably wondering "ok, where is this all going and what does it mean?"
When rewinding a replacement coil the larger the wire you can use is always better for durability. Period
You can increase the dia of the coil to hold more liquid while lowering the ohms a bit. If you get the dia to large it will go back towards a longer heat up time.
Here you have 2 choices, reduce the dia a bit or reduce the ohms a little.
Reducing the dia, but still larger than the factory size, will give a better reserve for more frequent and longer puffing but will require a little more heat due to the amount of liquid present in the now larger wick core.
Hopefully my explanation allows you to understand the idea I'm trying to get across on the variables at hand to enhace your PV enjoyment while preserving atomizer life.
Last edited:
anyone know of a US retail place that has the silica rope? i just went to home depot and lowes and looked around and asked but i didnt see any and they workers i asked didnt know what i was talking about. hate ordering small stuff online
I see the loosely knitted 1/2 in size is listed under Fiberglass seals, 1)Tightly Braided, 2)Lossely Knitted.....where as options 3,4, are under Silica Seals, and 5 and 6 are under Ceramic Seals. Anyone else notice this?
Dont want to go ordering the wrong one, dont really like the taste of fiberglass either
Anyone willing to sell any shorter pieces PM me, wish they sold this stuff by the foot and not 5-10ft sections.
Dont want to go ordering the wrong one, dont really like the taste of fiberglass either
Anyone willing to sell any shorter pieces PM me, wish they sold this stuff by the foot and not 5-10ft sections.
- Status
Similar threads
