I normally replace the factory wire with 26ga enameled wire.
Most plastic type insulation wires are to big to go through and carry the current.
Even the wire they use can be tough to shove up and grab. It almost seems like the insulation swells or softens. The seem to have a source of a very thin insulated wire.
It's possible to drill it if you could find a drill in diamond or carbide tipped. Gonna be expensive. To me, changing to enameled wire is easier.
This subject is going to be addressed when doing individual models.
Looking good Dan.nice work.
Have you tried the nichrome 80 yet?
I got mine today so I dont have any protos made up yet for anything.
They should do better.......I just dont like the iron factor at that %.
Seems its asking for premature failure when a non iron type is easily available.
Seems its time to start looking outside the "box"..................
Only so much can be done with certain materials.
Yea, I ordered 36, 34 & 32ga from them.
2.3ohms in 1.25" is gonna be tough in 34ga. PJN 34ga is 1.38ohm/in. So, 2" will give you 2.77ohms.
Taking into account the soldered portion it looks like abt 1 3/4" will be close. You could do the coil dia a little bit larger and make that work. IMO.
Since most values are industrial standards, I doubt you'll find very little diff from diff manufacturers. Considering gauge being true size and the 80/20 ratio kept.
Haven't been on much sorry.
The heavier ga should last longer and be more durable overall. The problem arises with needing the longer length and where to put it all withoout shorting the coil. At least in a standard atty. The 801 by far has the most room of the standard ecigs unless you cross over into the G120 and the other cigars.
I do have a couple theories I'd like to try and prove or disprove.
Winters coming so I should have more time.
I use the red enameled wire from the 3 pack at Rat Shack.
The green is heavier & fits, but the enamel comes off mine easily. It may be old.
The ceramic can scrape it off so you need to measure for a short from the mesh near the cup bottom.
I prefer to make an area in the mesh bigger than the hole in the cup so it cant short.
I have hobby drills and a pin vice to hold them. Its in my tutorials. You can rip the dead coil out, drill the old wire out right down through the mesh, make the area bigger in the mesh where the drill came through and insert the new wick & coil. Takes a little practice, but the mesh never needs to be removed doing that.
You can feed the coil in from the top with the leads and pull the one side under the bridge if careful. then just raise the edge of the bridge mesh to tuck the wick tail.