oops !
... pls don't condescend. i mentioned many times i was new.
i mixed up the equation, that's all
(Voltage)•(amps)=watts.
3.09•X=40watts
12.94amps
MUM GRAB THE KODAK. I LEARNDED!
maximum output current
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oops !
... pls don't condescend. i mentioned many times i was new.
i mixed up the equation, that's all
(Voltage)•(amps)=watts.
3.09•X=40watts
12.94amps
MUM GRAB THE KODAK. I LEARNDED!
So here I go throwing another wrench into the mix.
Built-in batteries are more "convenient" with their onboard USB charging, but are not necessarily more safe. Built-in batteries are LiPo chemistry, which is not a safer chemistry -- if something goes wrong, they can burst into flames or explode. They depend upon the processor's protection circuitry to guard against a hard short. The processor's protection circuitry is designed to protect the processor, not the battery.
istick 50 watt exploded | E-Cigarette Forum
Plus, all rechargeable batteries have a limited life expectancy -- about 250 - 300 charge cycles. If you use an mod that uses an internal battery, you can't replace it. When the battery dies, you have to buy a new mod.
External batteries, like 18650's, are a safer chemistry. They are IMR or INR chemistry, which may vent gas but are not likely to flame or explode when something goes wrong. If you use a mod that uses replaceable external batteries, when the battery dies from old age, you simply replace with another battery for about $6, not the entire mod. Safer and more economical in the long run.
Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 1
- A popular and essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
- For those who want to learn the differences between IMR, IMR/hybrid, ICR, and LiPo batteries. What do those numbers and letters on batteries mean? What's an amp rating and why is it more important than the mAh rating when choosing a battery for vaping?
hypothetically, how could something go wrong?
it won't fire if you specify controls outside of its range, so what could be some dangers?
thanks again for your patience.
No problem. These things can be complicated to new vapers. None of us vets mean to be condescending when trying to help noobies. We're not certified teachers or educators. It requires patience on everyone's part.oops !
... pls don't condescend. i mentioned many times i was new.
i mixed up the equation, that's all
A regulated mod, because it has a processor and protection circuitry, is many times more safe than a mechanical mod, which has no processor or protection circuitry. With a mechanical mod, the only safety circuit is the one between your ears. You won't have a processor doing the math for you, or keep you from doing something stupid.
However, even in a regulated mod electrical components can fail. For instance, leaking e-liquid inside the mod can damage those electrical components. Onboard battery chargers can fail. Circuit boards and soldered wires can become loose if you drop the mod.
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one last thing, promise.
why do some mods not list the max output?
cant find information for the joyetech evic vtwo or eleaf istick power nano i own.
Regulated mod manufacturers list the maximum wattage output. That's generally what the majority of consumers are interested in.
eVic VTwo
Capacity: 5000mAh
Temperature Range: 100-315℃/200-600˚F
Output Wattage: 1W-80W
Resistance Range: 0.05-1.0ohm for VT mode
Resistance Range: 0.15-3.5ohm for VW/BYPASS mode
eleaf istick power nano
Battery Capacity: 1100mAh
Output wattage: 1-40W
Resistance range: 0.05-1.5ohm (TC modes)
Resistance range: 0.1-3.5ohm (VW/Bypass/Smart mode)
Temperature range: 100－315℃/200－600℉ (TC modes)
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I understood that. Why is it so important for you to know the max output in amps with a regulated mod? We're speaking apples and oranges here.
Wattage output is all you need to know to determine how powerful a regulated mod is. If a manufacturer did list the max amp output, how would that help you?
Having said that ...
It's important for new vapers to understand, owning the most powerful high wattage mod is not needed to get a great vape. Depending upon your expectations of a great vape, factors other than higher power output must be taken into account.
You don't need a 200 watt mod when 30 watts can give you just as good of a vape. I know a lot of vapers who are only vaping at 10 watts and love their vape. I use a 200 watt RX200, but I only vape it at 30 watts.
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Hi Matt, being pretty much a newb myself I have to wonder why you appear so concerned with the max output, are you planning on pushing the envelope with some extreme custom builds? The only folks I regularly see discussing max output for specific mods are those looking to power extremely low resistance coils and/or many coils at once.
I mean I couldn't right now quote ohm's law and frankly see little need for it. I just make sure all my builds are well within the resistance range of my regulated mods and leave it at that. You'll want to buy good quality batteries regardless because with batteries quality does matter. I would recommend external batteries on good mods with an external charger. If you want a cheap all in one for convenience, kick around, etc great get a simple regulated tube mod but do yourself a favor and buy a quality device too or you either will end up replacing the cheap one anyway, or won't, in the end, like vaping.
I mean I couldn't right now quote ohm's law and frankly see little need for it. I just make sure all my builds are well within the resistance range of my regulated mods and leave it at that. You'll want to buy good quality batteries regardless because with batteries quality does matter. I would recommend external batteries on good mods with an external charger. If you want a cheap all in one for convenience, kick around, etc great get a simple regulated tube mod but do yourself a favor and buy a quality device too or you either will end up replacing the cheap one anyway, or won't, in the end, like vaping.
just wondering to work out lowest resistance coils, highest watts and amp capabilties of the mod, just in case. i like to know everything about how something works i guess. i see some companies list max volt and amp outputs and others don't. just wish there was consistency. i get they say can fire 70w max, with 0.15 coils etc, but if its a 20amp max output, it wouldn't work because you'd need 21 to fire it. i'm just overthinking i think.
not relevant anyway at 50w 0.5 coils 5V 10A. if a mod couldn't do 10A i'd be worried.
I understood that. Why is it so important for you to know the max output in amps with a regulated mod? We're speaking apples and oranges here.
Wattage output is all you need to know to determine how powerful a regulated mod is. If a manufacturer did list the max amp output, how would that help you?
Having said that ...
It's important for new vapers to understand, owning the most powerful high wattage mod is not needed to get a great vape. Depending upon your expectations of a great vape, factors other than higher power output must be taken into account.
You don't need a 200 watt mod when 30 watts can give you just as good of a vape. I know a lot of vapers who are only vaping at 10 watts and love their vape. I use a 200 watt RX200, but I only vape it at 30 watts.
just been thinking about it way too much. i'm a nervous nelly with electronics near my face i guess ;p
thanks again
Hey Mattmc92, no problems trying to get things straight in your head before jumping into the deep end. Wish more newbies would be so concerned as you.
Baditude has explained these things to hundreds (likely thousands) of new vapers that come here and dare to ask.
And he's been patiently doing it for many years.
His blog posts are a great ECF resource and even experienced members should read them imo. Baditude's Blogs | E-Cigarette Forum
Baditude has explained these things to hundreds (likely thousands) of new vapers that come here and dare to ask.
And he's been patiently doing it for many years.
His blog posts are a great ECF resource and even experienced members should read them imo. Baditude's Blogs | E-Cigarette Forum
find a battery rated for 30 amps.mooch posted a lot of information on batteries and listed 2 or 3 that could safely handle 30 amps. many batteries will overheat at those levels.you need to educate yourself before engaging in that kind of extreme vaping. it is not for novice.learn what you are doing and get the right batteries or sooner or later you will get hurt
why would i need a 30amp?
5V 50W = 10Amp
the mod i have is an internal battery anyway. seems pretty safe to me
regulated mod that i haven't customized, and i'm not using temp control either.
i wouldn't say it's extreme. seems entry lvl subohm to me?
your mod cuts of when your battery voltage drop below 3 volts. 3 volts at 50 watts = 16.7 amps and battery capacity goes down and internal resistance goes up as the battery ages. any form of sub ohming is for advanced vapers and can be dangerous. you clearly need to educate yourself to do this safely
okay as an example... I use a kangertech kbox mini (7-75w), with a toptank mini or pro tank 4, which requires an external rechargeable battery... so I use these LG 18650 HG2 3000mAh 20A - LG18650 . I run between 10 to 35w depending on the coils, of which go between .3 to 1.2.ohm the kbox is a regulated mod, and despite all the other wonderful designs out there... i`m unlikely to buy another unless this one breaks, or I go up to a two battery version for extended time between charging. not really into cloud chasing, and yes I love flavour, but I don`t have the dexterity to drip or squonk. these batteries are made for the use I am putting them through and once they degrade I can toss them, without needing to buy a new mod.
If you are using an internal battery mod will not fire if an unsafte situation accrues
That may be true on the output side of the circuit board (it is, only if you have a .5Ω coil attached), but that's not what the battery sees. Your battery doesn't put out 5v. It puts out more like 3.7v, and the circuit does the "dirty work" of converting that into whatever is required for the selected wattage setting. (3.7 is the "nominal" voltage, but the actual voltage varies from about 4.2v at full charge, down to around 3.3 or so when you will need to recharge it. For safety calculations, we always use the lowest voltage and usually just call it an even 3 volts under load, if we don't know the actual low-voltage cutoff of the particular device in question.) So at 50w, you're drawing 50/3 = 16.6 amps. Also many of us like to not push our batteries right up to the limit, and so we will allow ourselves some headroom of 10, 25, sometimes even 50% just in case the device is a little inaccurate, or the batteries are a little old, or whatever, hence the recommendation for quality, name-brand 20A or 30A batteries from a trusted seller.
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