Whats the voltage displayed on the screen relevant to then? Mines showing 2.64V at full battery. Heh, bugger it.
maximum output current
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Whats the voltage displayed on the screen relevant to then? Mines showing 2.64V at full battery. Heh, bugger it.
So, how do you at any given time work out the actual voltage of your mod? Just guess with the battery level indicator?
Or check it with a multimeter, if it has a removable battery. But the amp draw will always be highest (for any given wattage) when the battery voltage is at its lowest, so if you calculate the maximum safe wattage at minimum charge (this works out to about 60w per battery with 20A batteries, leaving zero headroom) then thats the most it will draw, a fuller charge on the battery will draw fewer amps and will be at least as or more safe than at the minimum charge.
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my mod is internal and does no specify the max amp output, or voltage. i think i understand now though.
3v is the lowest voltage when the battery is near dead, and at 60w means 60w/3v = 20amp
therefore fully charged (rounding to 4) at 50w would be 50w/4v = 12.5amp
people told me not to worry with my internal battery device but i really wanted to be familar and safe.
thanks for taking the time!
i guess if the amperage is too much to handle it just wont fire, but itd be nice if they listed the max for my device anyway
can i ask then, what the point is of nominal voltage / vv devices? if it goes off battery voltage to work out amps it seems irelevant?
Voltage displayed on the screen will be the output voltage that is applied to the atomizer. This will be related to the wattage setting selected by the user; if one goes up, the other must go up, if one goes down, the other must go down. It's sort of like the relationship between Celsius and Fahrenheit, but the conversion scale is different for every different resistance/atomizer attachment. For example, to reach 10 watts at 2 ohms takes more volts than 10 watts at 1 ohm, but 20 watts takes more volts than 10 watts in either case.
ah thank you. it's now sinking in. battery voltage and atomizer voltage are different. the 5V on a 0.5 coil at 50watts is right for the atomizer. the amp is generated from the battery ranging from 3.3 - 4.2V, meaning at its lowest charge of 3.3V at 80w means 24.4amp output? did i actually finally just get it?
as i said, i've been told its not important for an internal regulated mod, but i'd still like to know.
is my mod even capable of that? the screen will warn me if its not and won't fire i guess. just if something goes wrong in the circuitry and protections i'd like to have the math in my head.
maybe it's displaying the voltage feed to your coil.my nebox did that for the one day it actually worked before dying. I trust my knowledge and skill a lot more than I trust the technology used in regulated mods
No "maybe." That's most definitely is what it is displaying.
You can measure electrical potential with knowledge and skill?! Sweet, can you teach me how?
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not sure what you mean by electrical potential. but I do test 9 volt batteries with my tongue. but folks that use mechanical mods use their knowledge, skill and experience to determine what is safe.
12 volt car batteries are capable of putting out over 600 amps, do you worry about your' car blowing up? I'm pushing 28 amps to my tfv8 and pulling around 15 amps from batteries doesn't concern me one bit. As long as your' using safe batteries you're in the clear.
Knowledge and skill? Awesome! You do realize Evolv has the same knowledge right? Even Yihi and Joyetech boards are perfectly safe. My VF lite shows weak battery with my MXJO batteries ; the board notices excessive battery sag and automatically limits power it's to protect the battery. Other than using crappy batteries regulated mods are MUCH safer than mechs! I've got nothing against mech mods BUT to say a mech is safer is ludicrous IMHO.
What your screen is displaying is the voltage required to meet your Wattage setting, which is based on the resistance of the coil you are using.
For example, if you were using a .5ohm coil and set at 50 watts you are applying 5V of power to the coil.
If you're using a 1ohm coil at 10 watts you are applying 3.16V of power to the coil.
The Volts reading on the display has nothing to do with the batteries, it's telling you how much voltage your sending to the coil.
OK, just for fun, would you mind telling me what would happen if you tested a 20A battery with your tongue?
Let's see how much electrical knowledge you really have.
(BTW, DO NOT TRY THIS. READ and LEARN before you put a 20A battery on your tongue and create a circuit. I suggest doing a Google search for LETHAL AMPERAGE first.)
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My car doesn't sit in my mouth, if it did I'd be learning everything there is to know. I like to be safe rather than trust onboard circuitry to keep me safe. I was reading about mvp pro 3 which has a max output of 17.5amps and 60watts. Therefore at 60w with your battery at 3.2V when it's running low, the amp output would be 18.75.
Ideally it won't fire because it's not capable, but what if something onboard goes wrong and it doesn't know not to fire?
I'll also reiterate, I only use internal battery mods. I don't like holding high powered capacitors in my hand, but that's my preference, I'll do what feels safe to me based on knowledge, or lack there of. There are always new mods coming out, and I've bought 4 in the 3 weeks since I have started. Each of those will last 250-300 charges. I'm definitely sure I'll want to buy more mods before the 1000-1200 charges (1 a day for 3 years total) happens and the mods die. I'll eventually learn more about battery safety but i'm happy with my current situation. Saving $25 a day and feeling healthier and found myself a fun hobby
you can only test voltage and not current that way. the only way to know current capacity is from the manufacturer rating.and sometimes thats not reliable. cheap re wraps are often over rated by the sellers.
they are safe for people who know what they are doing but not for many of the vapers I have met. the local vape shop tells me that new FDA regulations prohibit them from rebuilding coils for their customers which was tragic for many of their customers who use sub ohm RDAs but do not know how to build coils. for those kids mechs would not be safe. computers do develop "glitches" sometimes. I have 4 regulated mods. one stop working after a month and a second one can't hold setting and sometimes jumps to a higher power level. regulated mods have blown up just like mech.
brings me back to one of my questions:
why do manufacturors not list max output on all their devices?
lets say i have a mod and it fires 17.5amp max (but doesn't say)
with a max output of 80w. at 3.5V i won't be able to fire it, it needs 23amps to fire.
i try at 70w but that would require 20. the max would be 61w, limiting the devices capabilities.
am i wrong?
why do manufacturors not list max output on all their devices?
lets say i have a mod and it fires 17.5amp max (but doesn't say)
with a max output of 80w. at 3.5V i won't be able to fire it, it needs 23amps to fire.
i try at 70w but that would require 20. the max would be 61w, limiting the devices capabilities.
am i wrong?
Input amps drawn from the battery and output amps delivered to the atomizer are not the same thing. The only value that's (necessarily) the same on both input & output sides of the circuit board is watts. Other values like amps or volts might be the same in some cases but that would just be by coincidence, not by necessity. Max output amps is kind of a meaningless figure. The question isn't "why doesn't everybody list it" but, rather, "why does anyone?"
For example: a device is set to 64 watts, delivered to a .25Ω coil with a battery charge of 3.5 volts. To reach those 64 watts, at a charge state of 3.5 volts, the device pulls 18.2 amps from the battery. Over on the output side, however, it's a different story. To feed 64 watts through a .25 coil, it delivers 4.0 volts, and with 4 volts and a quarter of an ohm, that works out to an applied current of 16 amps. With a different coil at the same watts, you'll get a different value. That same 64 watts still draws 18.2A from the battery, but delivered to a .5Ω coil instead it requires 5.65 output volts and runs at only 11.3 amps applied current. But we don't really care about the applied current in either case. For purposes of battery safety, the amps we need to look at are the 18.2 that are coming out the battery, not the 11 or 16 that are going into the atomizer.
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