Mech mod silver spring?

[Pluring]

Hi!

I have an Avid Lyfe Able mod with a Comp Lyfe Battledeck 2post solid silver deck and i just bought the silver T-shape pin to get a little extra conductivity. And the upgrade from the original cooper pin was totalt worth it

But i want the voltage drop to be a minimal...

So,
Is there anyone out there who has upgraded their mod from magnets to a silverspring?
And would it make a big difference to change the titaniumscrews to silverscrews?

I understand that it would make a small difference but is it worth the penny.....thats the question


Anyone?

 

[Bad Ninja]

Most of the voltage drop occurs inside the battery.

I dont think a silver spring will give you any noticeable improvement.

Silver contacts or springs arent used because they conduct better.
They are used because they resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean, thus providing a better connection.

 

[Pluring]

Most of the voltage drop occurs inside the battery.

I dont think a silver spring will give you any noticeable improvement.

Silver contacts or springs arent used because they conduct better.
They are used because they resist corrosion and are easier to keep clean, thus providing a better connection.

Ok. The update with the silver pin inside the button sure made a difference. Not a huge one but still noticeable in wramp up time

 

[Bad Ninja]

Ok. The update with the silver pin inside the button sure made a difference. Not a huge one but still noticeable in wramp up time

That really doesn't make sense unless your old copper pin was dirty.
I think you are misunderstanding why we use silver/rhodium contacts.
It's to slow corrosion.

The thickness of your tube will make more difference than using silver over copper contacts.

So will using a fresh cell.

Science FTW.



Bottom line?
All things being equal silver spring won't reduce voltage drop over magnets in an AV able/optic/timekeeper mod.

 

[anavidfan]

That really doesn't make sense unless your old copper pin was dirty.
I think you are misunderstanding why we use silver/rhodium contacts.
It's to slow corrosion.

The thickness of your tube will make more difference than using silver over copper contacts.

So will using a fresh cell.

Science FTW.



Bottom line?
All things being equal silver spring won't reduce voltage drop over magnets in an AV able/optic/timekeeper mod.

DITTO to all of the above.
Mechs will give you a lifetime + of use, but, and here is the big ...., every once in a while, depending on use, environmental temp/ humidity etc, you have to give the thing a cleaning. Nothing major. Get some real high percentage alcohol/ qtips/ and give it a little wipe. Wipe all points of contact. ( threads, 510) Even sterling plating will oxidize eventually. Sterling plated is good as in it takes longer to oxidize but it does. Being plated , this means you have to be more careful to clean so you dont rub off the plating.

Dont put silver plated items in an ultrasound cleaner, dont use anything that is abrasive such as most silver cleaners, beware of sunshine cloths, they do have micro abrasives. Soap and water with a very, very soft brush and then wipe with alcohol. Only when they get really black, use a gentle abrasive like the sunshine cloths.

As much as silver looks good, I actually prefer plain brass/copper etc. I can clean it more often but I dont have to worry about taking the silver off.

Ive known quite a few people and friends that have mechs and then put them aside, get a new one, freak out over how much better it is, then that one gets dirty and the cycle never ends. I spent an afternoon cleaning a friends 6, really expensive mechs and like magic they all worked better or as good as the reg box mod he was using cause the mechs "sucked" ( his words, they did not suck, they were just filthy)

 

[sonicbomb]

Cleaning a mech on a regular basis is a basic requirement of ownership.

 

[daviedog]

DITTO to all of the above.
Mechs will give you a lifetime + of use, but, and here is the big ...., every once in a while, depending on use, environmental temp/ humidity etc, you have to give the thing a cleaning. Nothing major. Get some real high percentage alcohol/ qtips/ and give it a little wipe. Wipe all points of contact. ( threads, 510) Even sterling plating will oxidize eventually. Sterling plated is good as in it takes longer to oxidize but it does. Being plated , this means you have to be more careful to clean so you dont rub off the plating.

Dont put silver plated items in an ultrasound cleaner, dont use anything that is abrasive such as most silver cleaners, beware of sunshine cloths, they do have micro abrasives. Soap and water with a very, very soft brush and then wipe with alcohol. Only when they get really black, use a gentle abrasive like the sunshine cloths.

As much as silver looks good, I actually prefer plain brass/copper etc. I can clean it more often but I dont have to worry about taking the silver off.

Ive known quite a few people and friends that have mechs and then put them aside, get a new one, freak out over how much better it is, then that one gets dirty and the cycle never ends. I spent an afternoon cleaning a friends 6, really expensive mechs and like magic they all worked better or as good as the reg box mod he was using cause the mechs "sucked" ( his words, they did not suck, they were just filthy)

Thanks for the "heads up", i now know why i have a 100 mechs..

 

[anavidfan]

Thanks for the "heads up", i now know why i have a 100 mechs..

WOW, and I thought I was "obsessed" with 20, Id love to see a group shot, well you might have to get a wide angle lens.....

 

[Bad Ninja]

WOW, and I thought I was "obsessed" with 20, Id love to see a group shot, well you might have to get a wide angle lens.....

Lol.
I gave up on group shots.
Have to back up so far you cant really tell what they all are.

 

[daviedog]

WOW, and I thought I was "obsessed" with 20, Id love to see a group shot, well you might have to get a wide angle lens.....

Mabey a fisheye lens, over 75 are clones..

 

[MsLoud]

This is why I LOVE my mechs. Pan is soapy water - I use Dawn - take the mods to bits. Let them soak a minute. Use a denture brush and lightly clean. Qtip with alcohol then NO-OX-ID on threads, contact points and ends of batteries.
I also use a white eraser on 510s and switches as needed to clean then up.

 

[MMW]

I use ketchup and a toothbrush.

 

[sonicbomb]

I use ketchup and a toothbrush.

Ditto

 

[Kprthevapr]

Mabey a fisheye lens, over 75 are clones..

They all roll the wrong way when I stand on the bed to try an' get a group shot

 

[VHRB2014]

The little ears on the negative pin on the AV switch are the contact path for the switch. Anytime one of my AV`s is getting weak it`s because these little ears have gotten dirty. Since this pin and ears are so small, it "IS" a high
maintenance switch design.

BOL

 

[Bad Ninja]

The little ears on the negative pin on the AV switch are the contact path for the switch. Anytime one of my AV`s is getting weak it`s because these little ears have gotten dirty. Since this pin and ears are so small, it "IS" a high
maintenance switch design.

BOL

Spot on.

The bottom and sides of the ears on the pin, as well as the shoulder and shaft of the housing where the pin rides.

 

[bwh79]

I use ketchup and a toothbrush.

Does it need to sit for a while on the mod to "soak in" to whatever crud it's cleaning off, or do you just squirt ketchup on the brush and go to town?

 

[MMW]

Does it need to sit for a while on the mod to "soak in" to whatever crud it's cleaning off, or do you just squirt ketchup on the brush and go to town?

Once broken down, a dab on the contacts/bridge/plates/negative contacts.
Then brush away.

 

[sonicbomb]

Drench in sauce, soak for 15 minutes then the brushing and then the rinsing. Then it puts the lotion in the basket.

 

[MMW]

Works great, especially when you're eating a hamburger hoagie.