On my smpl I build my raptor around 0.8ohms, dual coil twisted 28g. Lower your resistance lower your batt life. Mine lasts maybe a good 2 hours of chain vaping? If just a few drags every half hour or so it lasts longer. Using Samsung 25r and LG HE4.
Mechanical Mods Vs VW/VV - what is your preference and why
- Thread starter VapeMOsg
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Been putting aside my mech mods ever since I got the Kanger Kbox. Get one and you'll know why. I only use my mech mods for testing juices now, LOL.
It offers the best of both worlds at a low price, simplicity of a 'mech' design with regulated voltage at almost zero voltage drop to its wattage settings (tested by Pbusardo). Its super compact, solid and reliable and nice grip feel with a high-quality spring-loaded 510 pin, taking atomizers up to 25mm, which is like God sent.
Used to vape an RDA down to 0.3-0.4 ohm using mech, then realised its the voltage limitation and high voltage drop (u to 0.8V) that makes one keep going into low sub-ohms.
To test voltage drop without using an expensive inline tester, just use a multimeter to test your terminals of RDA when you press the switch, you'll be totally shocked at how much a mech mod voltage can drop for a sub-ohm. that is how much power you've been short-changed. I was shocked to see mine drop to 3.4 volts with just a 0.5 ohm coil.
This means that with a mech mod say on a 0.5 ohm single coil, instead of getting 32W (assuming 4V), you only get actual 23W (and keeps dropping non-stop), LOL.
Even if you get a copper mod, with less voltage drop, still suffers from same fate, like a broken record after the initial 'Surge'. Its voltage will drop to less than 3.7V within mins of chain-vaping at sub-ohm. That's the main dilemma of mech mods, the dying voltage, which leads to constant need to take out batteries and test voltage, change batteries and need to build lower resistance coils just to get the supposed power (which is an illusion).
That's why the mech users market is now going towards towards more copper parts and mech box mods with more 2 or more batteries in parallel for longer 'nominal voltage' vape time. Problem is, very quickly, it still suffers from the same fate of voltage drop and vaping a broken record.
Early sub-ohm VV/VW mod users suffer from unreliable chips (cloupored, burnt chips etc.), but not anymore with more reliable, cheaper and compact VV/VW mods coming up. Take your time, do your research and get reliable authentic ones with tested reviews like the Kanger/Sigelei/Eleaf/IPV/Snowell/Phimis etc. with more more cheaper clones and many more brands coming up every few days.
Wattage ratings is up to you. Most users vape less than 30W, so 40/50W box mods is definitely more than enough.
Hardcore ones who know how to properly build their coil set-ups with right gauges/no. of wraps/airflow at comfortable vape temperature can easily go up from 100W to 260W (highest rated mod in the market now) but with box-size trade-offs. Ref: 260W Rant, LOL.
I set this mod (KBox) using twisted 28 gauge at 0.6 ohms, at just 25W setting, it blows my mech mods away (with 0.4 ohms.) with a consistent true 3.9V (measured) for at least 2 hours of vaping. Seeing how fast the coils light up consistently is enough to make you grinning non-stop. Best part is, you can lower/increase your wattage settings anytime.
Too much vapour, too hot, need more flavour/cooler vape? Just lower your wattage settings to your desired outcome instantly.
Not enough vapour?, crank up the wattage to light up. In fact, seeing how your RDA vapour slowly increase and then suddenly 'explodes' at maximum wattage is really fun. You simply can't do that with a mech mod, unless you change the coils/RDA, LOL.
Best part is, you can use build thicker gauge coils (<28 AWG or twisted etc.) and play with the lower wattage settings to give you a cooler vape. You can't do that with a mech mod, unless you patiently vape til your batteries drop to lower voltage (but still need to take out and measure again. Yes, Gila, but even if you do that at this point, its voltage can't go up anymore til you change battery, but with a freshly charged battery, you are forced to vape at 4.2V again, which is pointless as you have no control)
Simply put, a sub-ohm VW/VV mod (depending on type) is like having multiple setups at an instant - RDA with different coils resistance/gauges, batteries with different rated voltages (<3V- >10V) and without the stupendous voltage drop, LOL.
Its already 2015. Once you get a tiny compact and reliable sub-ohm VV/VW mods, mech mod are essentially useless (beautiful though), til EMP from nuclear war happens to strike your mod's chip, that is.
It offers the best of both worlds at a low price, simplicity of a 'mech' design with regulated voltage at almost zero voltage drop to its wattage settings (tested by Pbusardo). Its super compact, solid and reliable and nice grip feel with a high-quality spring-loaded 510 pin, taking atomizers up to 25mm, which is like God sent.
Used to vape an RDA down to 0.3-0.4 ohm using mech, then realised its the voltage limitation and high voltage drop (u to 0.8V) that makes one keep going into low sub-ohms.
To test voltage drop without using an expensive inline tester, just use a multimeter to test your terminals of RDA when you press the switch, you'll be totally shocked at how much a mech mod voltage can drop for a sub-ohm. that is how much power you've been short-changed. I was shocked to see mine drop to 3.4 volts with just a 0.5 ohm coil.
This means that with a mech mod say on a 0.5 ohm single coil, instead of getting 32W (assuming 4V), you only get actual 23W (and keeps dropping non-stop), LOL.
Even if you get a copper mod, with less voltage drop, still suffers from same fate, like a broken record after the initial 'Surge'. Its voltage will drop to less than 3.7V within mins of chain-vaping at sub-ohm. That's the main dilemma of mech mods, the dying voltage, which leads to constant need to take out batteries and test voltage, change batteries and need to build lower resistance coils just to get the supposed power (which is an illusion).
That's why the mech users market is now going towards towards more copper parts and mech box mods with more 2 or more batteries in parallel for longer 'nominal voltage' vape time. Problem is, very quickly, it still suffers from the same fate of voltage drop and vaping a broken record.
Early sub-ohm VV/VW mod users suffer from unreliable chips (cloupored, burnt chips etc.), but not anymore with more reliable, cheaper and compact VV/VW mods coming up. Take your time, do your research and get reliable authentic ones with tested reviews like the Kanger/Sigelei/Eleaf/IPV/Snowell/Phimis etc. with more more cheaper clones and many more brands coming up every few days.
Wattage ratings is up to you. Most users vape less than 30W, so 40/50W box mods is definitely more than enough.
Hardcore ones who know how to properly build their coil set-ups with right gauges/no. of wraps/airflow at comfortable vape temperature can easily go up from 100W to 260W (highest rated mod in the market now) but with box-size trade-offs. Ref: 260W Rant, LOL.
I set this mod (KBox) using twisted 28 gauge at 0.6 ohms, at just 25W setting, it blows my mech mods away (with 0.4 ohms.) with a consistent true 3.9V (measured) for at least 2 hours of vaping. Seeing how fast the coils light up consistently is enough to make you grinning non-stop. Best part is, you can lower/increase your wattage settings anytime.
Too much vapour, too hot, need more flavour/cooler vape? Just lower your wattage settings to your desired outcome instantly.
Not enough vapour?, crank up the wattage to light up. In fact, seeing how your RDA vapour slowly increase and then suddenly 'explodes' at maximum wattage is really fun. You simply can't do that with a mech mod, unless you change the coils/RDA, LOL.
Best part is, you can use build thicker gauge coils (<28 AWG or twisted etc.) and play with the lower wattage settings to give you a cooler vape. You can't do that with a mech mod, unless you patiently vape til your batteries drop to lower voltage (but still need to take out and measure again. Yes, Gila, but even if you do that at this point, its voltage can't go up anymore til you change battery, but with a freshly charged battery, you are forced to vape at 4.2V again, which is pointless as you have no control)
Simply put, a sub-ohm VW/VV mod (depending on type) is like having multiple setups at an instant - RDA with different coils resistance/gauges, batteries with different rated voltages (<3V- >10V) and without the stupendous voltage drop, LOL.
Its already 2015. Once you get a tiny compact and reliable sub-ohm VV/VW mods, mech mod are essentially useless (beautiful though), til EMP from nuclear war happens to strike your mod's chip, that is.
Last edited:
Wow the price is indeed very enticing 
Yup right on for the mech mods breakdown.. Now my are hardly used.. Gone from vv to mechs, now back on vv again... Sick of the battery drain. Except for my Reos.. Lol..
Simply cannot beat the vv devices for their longevity(batt) and consistency.
Sure some mechs do look drop dead sexy and exotic.. But right now I'll take function over form anytime
Nice write up btw
Yup right on for the mech mods breakdown.. Now my are hardly used.. Gone from vv to mechs, now back on vv again... Sick of the battery drain. Except for my Reos.. Lol..
Simply cannot beat the vv devices for their longevity(batt) and consistency.
Sure some mechs do look drop dead sexy and exotic.. But right now I'll take function over form anytime
Nice write up btw
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
