I haven't seen a lot of information for rebuilding these specific coils, which are .3 ohm kanthal chimney coils. I've seen a few for titanium builds but I'm not big on temperature control. I tried a single 24 gauge kanthal, 6 wraps on a 2.4mm screwdriver, but it ohmed out at .8. Then I saw a description from eleaf that said it was a parallel wire wrap. Off I went. If you've seen Drip Tripper's parallel horizontal build on the Zenith V1 () , it's pretty much the same concept, with some "twists." I went with two 24 gauge wires and got them good and straight with each other. Before you start wrapping, grasp the two wires about an inch up on one end with needle nose pliers and make a 90 degree bend. Start wrapping with the 1" tail you created laying on your screwdriver handle and the long tail pointing up in the same direction of the wrap. This keeps the wire from bunching up if you try to bend it after the coil is wrapped. The top leads are tricky too, stop the wrap a little short of where you want it to end and bend the wires out and down with your pliers again, nice and gentle. Then finish the wrapping with your thumb pushing the wire around so that the top lead is tight to the coil body, with just enough space for the Japanese cotton. Wrap the cotton around the the coil the same way as titanium build videos, except I made the top of the cotton slightly "taller" than the coil so that there would be a buffer between the coil and the stainless screen inside the atty (no shorting.) After inserting the coil into the atty body, reinsert your screwdriver through the coil and take a needle nose juice bottle or syringe, wet the cotton at the bottom of the coil and gently push it up around the coil. Tuck it in loosely.
It's not easy pushing the insulator and positive pin with dual 24 gauge leads but they went in. Straighten the coil back up with your screwdriver inserted so that it is clear of cotton and centered in the middle of the atty body.
When I first clipped off the leads, the negative side touched the positive pin when screwed into the tank base and the coil ohmed at .0. I had to push the leads down flat, parallel with the coil side of the insulator and then it ohmed at .33.
I'm up to 26.5 watts with it and it's vaping exactly the same as the stock coil was. It chucks clouds with a face full of flavor. The airflow is a little restricted compared to the stock coil, I'm going to try a 2.6mm or so diameter screwdriver on the next build.
It's not easy pushing the insulator and positive pin with dual 24 gauge leads but they went in. Straighten the coil back up with your screwdriver inserted so that it is clear of cotton and centered in the middle of the atty body.
When I first clipped off the leads, the negative side touched the positive pin when screwed into the tank base and the coil ohmed at .0. I had to push the leads down flat, parallel with the coil side of the insulator and then it ohmed at .33.
I'm up to 26.5 watts with it and it's vaping exactly the same as the stock coil was. It chucks clouds with a face full of flavor. The airflow is a little restricted compared to the stock coil, I'm going to try a 2.6mm or so diameter screwdriver on the next build.
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