MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

[dwcraig1]

I like it so much better this way without the cartomizer cap and with only an Ego adapter, also this way it has full function of air control.
As in this post: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-mechanical-mod-ggts-clone-2.html#post9227669

 

[dwcraig1]

I'm still waiting for my Ghost switch to ship, was supposed to ship on the weekend of April 22nd but that's a Monday, still no word.
Not to knock the MKB but here is an example of just how bad I need that switch (I hope it fits).
This little $5 box mod with it's little wires and cheap a** switch is my best hitting mod, if switching my Ithaka from the MKB to the box mod it tastes kind of burnt on the box, that's how noticable it is, similiar results to the box with my Natural but the box hits a little harder.
The switch is the only thing left so I'm assuming that it's the problem.

By the way I'm getting much more use from the ET box than from the ET atomizer

 

[Slartibartfast]

I hope that switch works out. I am just waiting to hear from you before I order one lol. I was also thinking about trying to replace the button spring with magnets. I know people do this with the GGTS button but I have no idea if the same size magnets will work in the MKB button or if not what size to get.

 

[dwcraig1]

I would think that the spring is part of the connection as well as the body
About the loss I'm getting on the MKB, I simply build my coil with that in mind

 

[dwcraig1]

Words can not describe just how well that I like the GGTS connection over the 510, it is extremly solid, the hybrid of hybrids (or not)

 

[upsetter21]

I really don't think, after $99 spent, that we should have to deal with so many issues. Is it just that we are expecting too much?

The switch on the MKB-TS sucks. The Ghost Modder upgrade looks promising but it's another $40. That puts the running cost up to the price of expensive MOD's (that probably have fewer quality issues).

I am stuck with my decision so I'm still fiddling with the MKB-TS. Who ever thought mechanical=simple.

Overall, my MKB-TS has been misfiring way too much. I kept troubleshooting the Kick because at first seemed to solve misfires when removed. But further use revealed the problem either way. More troubleshooting, and my latest conclusion is the switch is a total POC. It doesn't stay screwed together w/o intervention. The steel spring is resistive. The steel half of the button is resistive, and so is the steel body of the switch. Yeah, it's all conductive - just not very much so - and the resistance is increased by the LOOSE tolerances of how the parts fit together.

Alas my MKB-TS is behaving for now. For me it was more Brass Shim! Using a pair of scissors I cut a small rectangle of brass sheet - sized to wrap around the steel button, so as to be slipped into the body of the switch. Not a misfire since - and the slop in the switch is gone. I think I can stop hating this thing now.

 

[dwcraig1]

I have stopped using mine as of this morning until I get the switch, I'm using my Ithaka on a Natural. I had to open liquid control all the way. I might even have to build a higher ohm coil as I'm getting some power now, I didn't quite realize just how big the difference was till recently because I was using GGTS base and not the 510. In fact most of my gripes with Ithaka were because of the voltage drop on the MKB. I don't see it hurting anywhere else, just the switch and the battery spring and that can be left out. I may go for the GG complete bottom cap, it's only $20

Just about got it up to the price of the genuine GG-TS(in the end)

 

[upsetter21]

Glad to read some other people have found the .114cm measurement useful. A word of caution on the center post MOD: be careful of insulators (duh). I found that when my fabricated post slides down, sometimes my insulator goes down too exposing possible metal-to-metal contact. There is a gap between the plastic insulator (factory) and the lower shoulder of the 510 connection (factory). Using some nylon straw (thnx hw store again!) I cut a tiny insulating bushing to fill this gap. So there is no longer space for the insulator to move down.

I've got to get my camera hooked. Sorry I'm stuck to 1000-word method for now.

 

[upsetter21]

BTW, I tore my ACL at work so I have way too much time on my hands at the moment. Glad to have some projects to keep me going. Analogue cigs never provided this much entertainment! I'm well beyond chemical addiction at this point - wondering if I should address OCD instead.

A little info about the brass shim. Yes, I'm calling the shim MOD legit. This is the first day my MKB-TS hasn't misfired. I am no longer squeezing the snot out of the switch, and it's time to go to higher ohm coils because I'm finally pushing the current. My Kick is happy. The Shim is staying put and the buttons movement is no longer loose and gritty because the shim is so smooth.

The product is made by K&S Engineering (www.ksmetals.com). This is also who provided my brass rod stock. In my town several hardware/hobby stores have a K&S display with all kinds of metal pieces (plates, rods, tubes, etc.). One of the packages I found at an ACE HW store was labeled: "Create With Metal - Quality Metal Sheets" stock #258 Brass Shim. I didn't realize at first there are four thicknesses included. I guess my random grab was the right size. So using my fingers to feel the different thickness (ever so slight), I've determined the .002cm thickness works. .001, .003, .005 are also included in case you find different. The price was less than $6.

The panel I cut for the switch is just large enough to cover the cylindrical portion of the steel 1/2 of the button. It was just long enough to wrap around once, with maybe a mm or two of overlap. The smoothness of the Brass is like a dry lubricant - very different than that steel-on-steel feeling. Wish I would have thought of this sooner.

 

[Trick]

I'm surprised to hear about people having issues with the switch. I've been using mine heavily for a couple days, and have had no issues at all with it, and very little voltage drop on the mod.

I'm sure it'll need occasional cleaning, just like my GG's do, but it's been working really well for me, and has better throughput than several mods I've payed a lot more for.

 

[inganeer]

I haven't had any real issues with mine yet either. The only thing that bugged me was that the switch was a little loose so I wrapped a very small piece of .002 brass shim stock around it and now it is nice and smooth and feels solid. I did experience a voltage drop through the stacked connectors and I removed the center pins and opened up the I.D. of the connectors a tad and inserted a short piece of silicon tubing for the .114 brass rod to slide into for solid contact to the atty.

 

[dwcraig1]

Well........ so I thought I would do the brass shim fix on my switch, my nearest Ace had nothing for me but it turned out that I had some thin pieces of copper from something computer related. When I removed the switch and went to disassemble it the plunger was loose in the button, DUH, anyway cleaned everything up and did the shim and made sure that the two pieces of the button were tight and all is well again.
I still don't have tracking on my switch as yet.

The button, the way it was, kind of reminded me of the shifter in an old Mustang that I had years ago, it felt like it had four positions in every gear.
Now it feels like a high quality piece.

EDIT: I've been using it now for a couple of hours and it's still going strong.

 

[dwcraig1]

@ Trick, how about seeing if a GG switch fits MKB-TS if you can and would please.

 

[forg1vn]

You guys mind taking pics of the modding you've done? This would greatly help out future mkb owners and may help each other come up with better and or cheaper solutions,

 

[Trick]

@ Trick, how about seeing if a GG switch fits MKB-TS if you can and would please.

I tried. No go. Close, but the GGTS switch is just slightly too big.

 

[dwcraig1]

I tried. No go. Close, but the GGTS switch is just slightly too big.

Thanks, I got stuff for the classies again, or maybe drill and tap, ?

 

[upsetter21]

Sometimes applying a bench grinder w/ wire wheel can reduced threading & get stuff that's close to match up. Similar to what a key-cutter does before handing you a fresh key.

Everyone did their homework? Brass shims installed. Glad this was helpful to some folks. My MKB-TS is still running strong. Yesterday for kicks, I sat and hit the button 1000 times & it fired 1000 times. I think I'm totally out of the woods now & can finally enjoy some juice. I'll work on getting photos of the "effective" modifications up.

Seems like the "Ghost Modder switch fit" is the next technical hurdle in front of us. All eyes on dwcraig1. If it fits I'd consider pulling the trigger to have a back-up. $40 is steep tho. Seems one could start a company building switch upgrades for popular mechanical MODs. Funny, I stockpiled 4 spare switches for my Chi Chi (at less than $6 each) and for some reason can't imagine ever needing them.

 

[dwcraig1]

$40 will get you a switch with the mod on it in some cases, that's what I paid for my Smok Natural.
4-5 weeks more the GG-TS spares should be at COV along with a few TS'

 

[Slartibartfast]

@trick
Would you mind checking a few other GGTS to MKB compatibility options? Can the bottom cap be switched out? Bottom Tube? Telescoping tube? Sorry to ask but The Ghost Modder has some nice brass pieces that I am looking at and you are the only poster here that has both.

 

[dwcraig1]

My plan it GG complete bottom cap assembly and GG bottom tube