Mods that minimize arcing and require the least maintenance?

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Bad Ninja

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Most cheap vaping ohm readers have a ME (margin of error) of +/- .2 ohms at best.
Most state this clearly in the paperwork.

This isnt a big deal vaping at .9
It IS big deal vaping at .09

Accurate equipment sensitive enough to measure resistances that low cost alot of money.

Argue all you like.
The truth doesnt change.

You are playing fast and loose with safety.
 

Layzee Vaper

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Alright, then lets go ahead with the build info, because i seem to have misunderstood/been misinformed about the limits, judging by your opinions. The exact build im running right now in the subzero 24mm is a framed staple, 2x29ga, 8x0.1x0.3mm Ss316L wrapped in 38ga NiCr80, 3mm ID, 6 wraps, dualcoil.
This is about 0.096 ohms, including leg length, for the coil itself, without accounting for the resistance of the atomizer, mod, battery, etc.
Changing later to a full nicr80 build is something that im planning to do by the time i get my single mech, but i see no problem(_especially_ running parallel mode in NCII) in using 44A in ≈2 second bursts, considering the batteries are fresh and have 25+cdr.

This should give me 144-185w, depending on the charge of the battery. Seeing that i run this build at about the same levels on a reg device, this should be fine.

OK. Lets try coming at this from a different angle....

What values do you have for the following
Surface area of the coil
Heat capacity of the coil
Heat flux values at 4.2V and 3.3V

This should give us an idea of how your current coil behaves, how hot it is, ramp up time and the surface area.

Maybe then we can post some ideas that you could try that keep the resistance a bit higher and the power a bit lower that will still give you the kind of vape you want.

Often simple builds with lower mass but large surface area work best when you want to maximise the amount of vapour when power is limited as it is in a single cell mech. (if you want to keep your teeth for any length of time anyway)

Its the surface area, heat and ramp up time that make the biggest difference to the vape you get
 

Topwater Elvis

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Bottom line,
Exceeding any cells CDR is not 'safe'.
Relying on or even using pulse rate is not 'safe'.
Mooch's tests & charts are not 'saftey ratings'.
At .09Ω every time you press the fire button you will be internally damaging the cell.

If 'saftey' is of any concern, at all - 4.2v / .09Ω = 46.6a.
There are no cells capable of supporting a 46a draw 'safley'.
If you argue or try to rationalize that this thread should be moved into 'Not Advisable' subsection.

Your time would be much better spent learning how to get the vape you're after without endangering yourself & those near you.

Seriously, you can blow humongous cloudz bro & never exceed 10a - 15a demand. Get as hot of a vape as soft tissue can stand without damage & never exceed 10a - 15a demand.
There simply is no 'safe' way or reason to push cells past their CDR.

Learn to use what you have 'safley'.
 

MaxximusRevelation

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Jul 12, 2016
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Why did you come here for advice? You obviously know everything..

Whats with this whole big truck syndrome of dropping the most dangerous coil you can in your RDA? Do girls run at you in droves to give you their numbers? Do guys talk in groups about you in awe on how magnificent and amazing you are for pushing coils that have the chance of venting your battery every single time you press the fire button?

I know I sound sarcastic but it is a real question. Just...Why??? I have never ever understood it. Those obnoxious Youtube reviewers are always pushing coils that are .09-.08 and their clouds are the same exact size in vapor production as my .2-.3 coils. only time I have ever entered the .1 range was tiger coils and even that was below my batteries CDR.

Why be dangerous when you can be safe? If you owned a firearm and knew you could buy bullets that would fire 100 percent of the time safely or the "TactiKool Bulletz! Zombie Ed!tion!" that have a chance of blowing up every 50 shots but glow in the dark...Which would you buy??? I can assume your answer is the first if you are a knowledgeable person. If you could buy Trojans that give you a 99% chance of avoiding an STD or getting pregnant, would you buy a brand that has a 40% rating because they had your favorite logo on it?

Pretty much what I am getting at is. When it is safety, why is it common knowledge to be safe, but when it comes to vaping, the more dangerous and stupid you are, the cooler you are to the minors who vape for the wow factor instead of a substitute to their nicotine addiction.
 

r055co

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Bottom line,
Exceeding any cells CDR is not 'safe'.
Relying on or even using pulse rate is not 'safe'.
Mooch's tests & charts are not 'saftey ratings'.
At .09Ω every time you press the fire button you will be internally damaging the cell.

If 'saftey' is of any concern, at all - 4.2v / .09Ω = 46.6a.
There are no cells capable of supporting a 46a draw 'safley'.
If you argue or try to rationalize that this thread should be moved into 'Not Advisable' subsection.

Your time would be much better spent learning how to get the vape you're after without endangering yourself & those near you.

Seriously, you can blow humongous cloudz bro & never exceed 10a - 15a demand. Get as hot of a vape as soft tissue can stand without damage & never exceed 10a - 15a demand.
There simply is no 'safe' way or reason to push cells past their CDR.

Learn to use what you have 'safley'.
^^^^^^This



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Bad Ninja

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Exotic coils have too much metal mass to work efficiently on a single cell mech.
In fact, they are extremely inefficient on any device....but...ya...they look cool. Thats about it.

Sign number 2 is the "ultra-low" hundredth-of-an-ohm build.
"The battery killer".




This just screams "I dont understand my gear".
 

DarkOne

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Apr 20, 2017
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I'm a sort-of experienced coilbuilder (making SSFC, FSC and below with little effort) and i've already acquired some vtc5a's from nkon, otherwise i wouldn't be looking for a mech. do note, that the 0.09ohms does not take into account the resistance of the mod, the battery, or the RDA. I own an rx 2/3, patched with arcticfox to support down to 0.05 in vw and for an actually working TC mode, starting to hate the thing, since the screen died in 2 months after purchase. i'm planning to grab a noisy cricket II next, for going below 0.06. I'm not a newbie when it comes to builds, but I AM in need of assistance on current info on mechs. I've seen people use 0.04 in single mechs with care but am not planning to go that low, that much trust in pulse ratings is not for me.



But won't the arcing just move to that spot, making it even more difficult to clean?


I am really close to buying a subzero clone kit, but I'll test out my friend's broadside clone before buying. also, do you know if subzero-broadside original mods stack well? is there a thread on what mods stack well with eachother? (I am aware of ohm's law and the basic specifics of series/parallel battery arrangements, just in case anyone wants to tell me to never put 0.09 on an unregulated series mod - I know.)
PS - I'm looking for a mod that looks fine with 24mm atomizers, 22mm ones are a bit small for the builds that I do.

EDIT 1: forgot to reply to layzee vaper

EDIT 2: Added PS
Because i don't know if i can post a link on this forum check on the youtube Wismec black sreen fix it will require one simple soldering and the screen will work again i did that to my rx200s a month ago and works perfect again..
 

sonicbomb

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That the 0.09ohms does not take into account the resistance of the mod, the battery, or the RDA.
Apart from battery voltage sag, these losses are after the battery, ergo they are irrelevant in terms of how much stress you are putting on the battery. Relying on voltage sag to mitigate unsafe amp draws is not advisable.

If i have equipment accurate enough to measure two 0.19ohm coils separately, logically I have equipment that allows me to make a 0.095 dualcoil build.
That is illogical. An inaccurate resistance measurement halved will still be inaccurate.

The fundamental point you seem to be missing is that to get the vape you are after, a multi-battery device is required. Trying to get that much power out of a single battery device is inefficient and more importantly unsafe.
You mentioned other people using 0.04 resistances. I'm assuming your determination to push the limits on a single 18650 is perhaps a result of some misguided machismo.

Large high mass coils are inherently inefficient (clapton vs parallel comparison testing), as are electrical systems that use very high current levels. If you want to push 100+ watts in a mechanical device then dual battery series is (in my opinion) the way to go.
 
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r055co

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Apart from battery voltage sag, these losses are after the battery, ergo they are irrelevant in terms of how much stress you are putting on the battery. Relying on voltage sag to mitigate unsafe amp draws is not advisable..

Plus 0.00Ω is a dead short

If you want to push 100+ watts in a mechanical device then dual battery series is (in my opinion) the way to go.
Yep, IMO pushing a single battery below 0.15Ω is beyond poking the Hornets Nest and one is just asking to melt their face off.
 

DoubleDZA

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Aug 29, 2014
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Why did you come here for advice? You obviously know everything..

Whats with this whole big truck syndrome of dropping the most dangerous coil you can in your RDA? Do girls run at you in droves to give you their numbers? Do guys talk in groups about you in awe on how magnificent and amazing you are for pushing coils that have the chance of venting your battery every single time you press the fire button?

I know I sound sarcastic but it is a real question. Just...Why??? I have never ever understood it. Those obnoxious Youtube reviewers are always pushing coils that are .09-.08 and their clouds are the same exact size in vapor production as my .2-.3 coils. only time I have ever entered the .1 range was tiger coils and even that was below my batteries CDR.

Why be dangerous when you can be safe? If you owned a firearm and knew you could buy bullets that would fire 100 percent of the time safely or the "TactiKool Bulletz! Zombie Ed!tion!" that have a chance of blowing up every 50 shots but glow in the dark...Which would you buy??? I can assume your answer is the first if you are a knowledgeable person. If you could buy Trojans that give you a 99% chance of avoiding an STD or getting pregnant, would you buy a brand that has a 40% rating because they had your favorite logo on it?

Pretty much what I am getting at is. When it is safety, why is it common knowledge to be safe, but when it comes to vaping, the more dangerous and stupid you are, the cooler you are to the minors who vape for the wow factor instead of a substitute to their nicotine addiction.

hahaha beautifully put :thumb:
 
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