You are the man! Thank you pal, thats the one, I dont know why I ve missed those pages when I was there. Here s the black one to fit the mod and available too.
$24.76 Authentic Wotofo Serpent SMM RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 4ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 24mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Is a go, I see some extra pre made coils and some cotton in that package, so I ll be able to mount the coils and vape right away for a couple of weeks (actually giving a try to DL, 'cause they are Clapton, aimed to lower ohms I think), before fully coiling again for specific MTL set up....Nice! I see also the deck is single coil, meaning easier to work with on learning and less battery and juice consuming, but only less vapor. Ordering a narrow drip tip with it too. About batteries for the procolor or g priv, I had the 25R in mind but maybe the 30Q are better for those things?
Any last suggestion about it? Thank you so much for the explanation too, have a nice day Suprtrkr...
Clapton wire does lower resistance, all other things being equal, as compared against a slick (round) wire of the same size as the core of the Clapton, by virtue of being thicker with the outer wrap wire. You are effectively increasing the diameter/ lowering the gauge of your wire. But all other things won't be equal. The most important characteristic a builder is shooting for is resistance, so nobody would build an identical Clapton coil to replace a slick coil. You would want to retain the resistance factor, so the wire in the Clapton coil has to be longer than in the slick coil, meaning more wraps or larger diameter mandrel or both.
The actual purpose of Clapton wire is to increase the surface area of coil. Consider the complex surface topology of a cylindrical wire spiral wrapped around another cylindrical wire; the whole then being wrapped into spiral wound coil. (It also doesn't have to be cylindrical: Alien wire --tractor treads-- wrap a round wire around a ribbon; Tiger wire wraps a ribbon around a round wire. It gets a lot worse, too; have a glance at the coil porn board here and anywhere else. But don't bend your brain
) The idea is this: assume the resistance per length of a small Clapton wire is identical to the resistance per length of a larger diameter slick wire. Thus the same resistance of coil can be built using identical wraps on the identical mandrel;
but of the two, the Clapton coil will have a far, far higher ratio of surface area to volume.
The smallest possible ratio of SA:V is a sphere. That's why bathyscaphes are round and deep water fish are kinda short and thick and stubby; to help them resist deep water pressure by lowering surface area. A sheet of paper, however, has huge surface area and practically no volume at all; a much higher ratio. That's always important when you're trying to transfer heat. Whether by conduction, convection or radiation-- all three happen with a vape coil-- the more surface area you have doing the convecting or conducting or radiating, the faster the heat moves around.
Looked at another way, what makes vapor is hot wire surface in contact with wet wick. Heating the middle of the wire, while necessary, does no good for vapor because there's no juice in there; heat transfer, and thus vapor production, occurs only at the surface of the wire. The idea is functionally identical to the fins in your car's radiator or your air conditioner's condensing coil. or the fins on an electronics heat sink. The Clapton wraps are the fins of the core wire. Whether this produces more vapor, or more flavor, or both, or simply makes the exact same flavor and vapor more efficiently, thereby conserving battery power, is the result of a complex series of interactions involving the desired resistance, the set watts and a huge-ish number of other factors I haven't yet mentioned.
(Clapton wire is hard to build by hand and expensive to buy. But just as a hint, you can gain something like 85% of the benefit of increased surface just by taking two smaller wires and simply twisting them together. Taking three smaller wires and braiding them does even better. I
did mention you might want more than one type of wire...)
Why yes, now you mention it, there
is rather a lot to understand about this, lol. But understanding it isn't really necessary; all you need is to make it work. If you're like most people, you'll probably endure several failures building coils until you get one that actually works. Making your first vapable coil is a huge milestone in a builder's life. I fondly remember mine and it was years ago. So look at it like this: there's a learning curve, yes. But a couple days to a week will get you moving in a good direction.
Understanding how it all works is the study of a lifetime. I do that, because I am one of those an*l a**h*les who has to know. This ain't for everybody; and it isn't really necessary anyway: there are
good tools available that will calculate all this for you and you need only build by the results. Not only that, but you don't need to understand it so long as there are people like me on this board: you need only ask and we'll tell you
On to the batteries: either the 25Rs or the 30Qs will be excellent in that mod. Don't take it over 120 watts, or not for long or often, and they'll be fine. The 30Qs will last longer, given their 500mAh greater capacity, than the 25Rs at any watt level. LiIon batteries have a life cycle measured in recharges: about 300 full cycles and their useful life is over. So, if you can get 30Qs at or near the same price as 25Rs, you'll spend less money over the life of the batteries. Cost may not be your only decision point: maybe you really want the greater life in the mod. If so, buy 30Qs and don't sweat the price, you only have to re-buy them every year or two anyway. I think I mentioned above I am a mech vaper, in addition to using regulated mods, or maybe that was another thread. Anyway, I am a mech vaper and mechs have no safety circuitry at all. Therefore I prefer 25A batteries to 20A, just to give me a thicker safety margin. I don't actually use either of the Samsung batteries we're talking about. I lean toward the LG HD series, which are 25A batteries. Most of my batteries now are HD2Cs, as this was the best cell available last time I found a sale and stocked up. Before that I used Sony VTC4s, as they were then the best. Next time I buy, I'll get Sony VTC5As as they offer better specs than the HD2Cs. If you want to buy 25A cells, you can go to 80-ish watts per battery; for two, 160 watts or near the actual capacity of a 2-battery "200 watt" mod. I rather doubt you'll need it, myself. The vape gets hot and tasteless much above 70-80, and I usually vape at half that. However, the option is out there. But don't let this distract you: the Samsung parts you mention are excellent cells; for your usage you can't go wrong with either.
You are going to find built coils last a lot longer than prefab ones. If the wick plugs up, no problem: disassemble the tank, pull the old wick, burn the coils clean, rewick and vape some more. I have built coils over a year old and still going. I just rewick when they get to tasting bad. Burning clean is easy: heat the coils (with no wick) dull red-- not glowing hot-- and scrape the coils clean with a brush or probe. Then clean the inner diameter of the coil with some cotton-- I just pull a long wick in. The first inch or so cleans the coil inside diameter, which I then cut off and throw away, wicking with the remainder. A used toothbrush is a good brush to clean with. I also use a hooked dental probe I have to help pull the wick in as a scraper. And take a look at this jewel:
$5.99 Authentic Coil Master Vape Cleaning Brush - 2.0/2.5/3.0/3.5/4.0mm jig sizes / 0.1mm 304 stainless steel bristles at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
It's a little wire brush for cleaning that pushes on the end of a coil winding mandrel. That type of mandrel, BTW, is my favorite kind. I have (several) of the kind you're getting in your tool kit, but I never did like them. Doesn't mean you won't, many people do. But I don't, so this is just a thought.
