With an istick I dont think you need to know the amps you're drawing because you're dealing with the chip handling the load of an internal battery. The reason we figure out the Amp draw for regulated mods with replaceable batteries is to see if we are pushing them harder than their rating. If you really want to know the Amps you're pulling from the istick then assume its running a single cell(battery) and use the equation Wattage/cutoff voltage/efficiency.
Wattage = you said 7W
Cutoff voltage = lets assume 3.2 though I dont really know for sure what their chip is programmed to do
efficiency of the chip/mod = I always low ball it at 90% which gives plenty of safe room to work with
7/3.2/.9 = 2.43V
This means that at the lowest point before your mod will require a charge you will be drawing about 2.43V every time you push the button. This is the most Amps you will draw from your cell at that given wattage if everything is working as it should.
When wattage is set by the user then figuring out voltage and current is a bit different than if you want to figure out the wattage for say a mechanical mod where the current drawn is based on the available voltage(goes down steadily as you use the battery) and the resistance of the coil(constant)
Wattage = you said 7W
Cutoff voltage = lets assume 3.2 though I dont really know for sure what their chip is programmed to do
efficiency of the chip/mod = I always low ball it at 90% which gives plenty of safe room to work with
7/3.2/.9 = 2.43V
This means that at the lowest point before your mod will require a charge you will be drawing about 2.43V every time you push the button. This is the most Amps you will draw from your cell at that given wattage if everything is working as it should.
When wattage is set by the user then figuring out voltage and current is a bit different than if you want to figure out the wattage for say a mechanical mod where the current drawn is based on the available voltage(goes down steadily as you use the battery) and the resistance of the coil(constant)