My #2 ProVari is dying...

[ENAUD]

That's right, the second ProVari that I bought, a satin silver V2.5 red LED is acting up. It's clean, the board is tight, the thing works sometimes and sometimes not. Often times I need to hit the button three or four times before it fires. Other times it will fire several times in a row. Other times it will hesitate, fire cut out and fire again. The rubber boot on the button looks good from the outside so maybe it's electronics failing. So sad

Not going to send it in to ProVape for repair, it would be silly seeing as I can replace it for twenty bucks, and frankly I'd feel guilty sending it in to the mothership at this point. I plan to use it till it just won't fire anymore, then take it apart as a practice run, I will play with the board to see if I can repair the switch, or even put a remote switch soldered to the board. If successful, the board and top cap will go into a home made box mod.

This ProVari has served me well!

 

[WillyZee]

if the board is secure ... it's likely the button.

 

[57chilicat]

It's sad that it is acting up but it is phenomenal that it has served you so well up till now! We all get a little older and finicky as do our beloved mods!

 

[ENAUD]

if the board is secure ... it's likely the button.

Yeah, I figured as much. When we get settled in I'm going to order a switch off the bay, the contact plate and rubber boot can be swapped into the soldered switch housing and that should fix it.

 

[r77r7r]

Wouldn't hurt to email. The fella that fixes them might have a easy solution. Never know. Gl

 

[vapdivrr]

Have you tried messing with the negative spring? Not saying that it's the issue, but I had a similiar problem and it was that the spring kind of collapsed. I took it out (it actually unscrews) and kind of stretched it.

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[smacksy]

I had a similar problem so I stretched the spring in the cap like mentioned above and used a long Q-tip dipped in alcohol to scrub the positive battery contact on the board..it did the trick! [emoji4]

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[ENAUD]

Have you tried messing with the negative spring? Not saying that it's the issue, but I had a similiar problem and it was that the spring kind of collapsed. I took it out (it actually unscrews) and kind of stretched it.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I had a similar problem so I stretched the spring in the cap like mentioned above and used a long Q-tip dipped in alcohol to scrub the positive battery contact on the board..it did the trick! [emoji4]

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

This thing got a full cleaning, spring stretch etc. It's wonky, with the button pressed all the way down the led will go on and off as it fires and cuts out. It has been rode hard for about three years mostly with a dripper built to 1.2-1.4 Ω It doesn't owe me a penny. I've got plenty of spares sitting in storage too, so no worries.

 

[r77r7r]

Well, I guess it's time to repurpose. Stick shift knob for truck? Mechmod. Flashlight. Screw a pointy thing on the end for emergency window breaking in car. Christmas tree ornament.

 

[Moonwalker]

Mine had similar problems before dying. Button started to lose contact so I had to press harder so it could fire. After some time of pressing it harder button started getting inside the tube and locking there. So to avoid burning the coil I had to get battery out of the tube and push yje button out from inside.

I've noticed when looking from inside that it had more space from button to the contact then usual and that was the reason for not firing and blocking inside.

And then it stopped firing at all no matter how hard I pressed. So once I pressed so hard that display glass broke from inner side and after that it never gave any sign of life.

Bottom line is that it's maybe my fault as I'm not good at touchy things and have no handyman skills. If I did or at least tried it was maybe possible to open it and fix board properly on it's place. Now it's probably late for that.

 

[r77r7r]

Mine had similar problems before dying. Button started to lose contact so I had to press harder so it could fire. After some time of pressing it harder button started getting inside the tube and locking there. So to avoid burning the coil I had to get battery out of the tube and push yje button out from inside.

I've noticed when looking from inside that it had more space from button to the contact then usual and that was the reason for not firing and blocking inside.

And then it stopped firing at all no matter how hard I pressed. So once I pressed so hard that display glass broke from inner side and after that it never gave any sign of life.

Bottom line is that it's maybe my fault as I'm not good at touchy things and have no handyman skills. If I did or at least tried it was maybe possible to open it and fix board properly on it's place. Now it's probably late for that.

I think there is a place in Europe for parts and fixit??

 

[Moonwalker]

I'm not sure it pays off to fix V2 as it can be found new for 50$.

 

[ENAUD]

I think there is a place in Europe for parts and fixit??

There is a guy on the Bay that sells the switches, and even has a very detailed how to guide in the listing. Often times the rubber boot actuator and contact plate can be swapped out without the need for de-soldering and re soldering the switch assembly. There was a thread here a while back where a member asked, and I led him to the listing, as I recall he did successfully revive his ProVari. Me, when I get settled into our new home, plan to dissect this ProVari and try to solder in a remote switch, I want to house the chipset and 510 housing in a wooden box mod. If I fail on my first attempt, I have about thirty or so other ProVari's to play with

 

[r77r7r]

There is a guy on the Bay that sells the switches, and even has a very detailed how to guide in the listing. Often times the rubber boot actuator and contact plate can be swapped out without the need for de-soldering and re soldering the switch assembly. There was a thread here a while back where a member asked, and I led him to the listing, as I recall he did successfully revive his ProVari. Me, when I get settled into our new home, plan to dissect this ProVari and try to solder in a remote switch, I want to house the chipset and 510 housing in a wooden box mod. If I fail on my first attempt, I have about thirty or so other ProVari's to play with

Home made provari box sounds nice. Going to have to Name it tho.

 

[BackDoc]

I've always said they should have made a ProBox years ago when the box mod thing hit.....

 

[Moonwalker]

I am glad they didn't and that they stick with the tube. Market is flooded with this bricks called box mods. What's next, ball mod?

I don't like box modes at all and I am happy few companies and modders stayed with the tube. For me it looks nicer and it's fits better in a hand, better ergonomics.

 

[r77r7r]

I've always said they should have made a ProBox years ago when the box mod thing hit.....

Wouldn't have taken much to outshine the MVP.

 

[Netop]

There is a guy on the Bay that sells the switches, and even has a very detailed how to guide in the listing. Often times the rubber boot actuator and contact plate can be swapped out without the need for de-soldering and re soldering the switch assembly. There was a thread here a while back where a member asked, and I led him to the listing, as I recall he did successfully revive his ProVari. Me, when I get settled into our new home, plan to dissect this ProVari and try to solder in a remote switch, I want to house the chipset and 510 housing in a wooden box mod. If I fail on my first attempt, I have about thirty or so other ProVari's to play with

I've been tempted to undertake such a task myself. I've made some vape stands and simple furniture, but I'm still getting my skills up to the task to working with exacting fittings and tolerances.
There's some YouTube vids for removing the chip without damaging anything.
Have fun and good luck if you give it a try.

 

[vapdivrr]

I am glad they didn't and that they stick with the tube. Market is flooded with this bricks called box mods. What's next, ball mod? [emoji14]

I don't like box modes at all and I am happy few companies and modders stayed with the tube. For me it looks nicer and it's fits better in a hand, better ergonomics.

I use to vape nothing but tubes, but now only boxes, but small single battery boxes. now looking back to a shape, like a 6 or 7 inch tube, raising it to my mouth and sucking, nope.

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[Moonwalker]

So you probably also don't eat bananas?